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Seat Belt Removal


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Anyone have any tips or tricks on removing the lower seat belt bolts without using a torch? I'm planning on starting to soak them with penetrating lube, but I'm not sure that will be enough. They are pretty well seized in the body. I need to replace them because mine don't lock anymore and I'd like to have belts that actually work.
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In my experience the floor pan soaks up a bunch of the torque from an impact, but an impact is more effective on stuck bolts than straight leverage. So I'd try them both ways - impact and breakover with a cheater. And I'd try to both tighten and then loosen, tighten and then loosen.
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In my experience the floor pan soaks up a bunch of the torque from an impact, but an impact is more effective on stuck bolts than straight leverage. So I'd try them both ways - impact and breakover with a cheater. And I'd try to both tighten and then loosen, tighten and then loosen.

I tried the tighten and loosen with an impact. The problem with the impact side of things is that it is a torx bit and I snapped it. Knowing full well it was probably going to happen, but had to try anyway.

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I tried the tighten and loosen with an impact. The problem with the impact side of things is that it is a torx bit and I snapped it. Knowing full well it was probably going to happen, but had to try anyway.

You must either have weak bits or a really strong impact. :nabble_smiley_oh:

I would be tempted to use my torch with MAPP gas and a small flame. Heat it and quench it with PB Blaster or similar. Heat and quench. I don't think you will get the belt too hot, but then I wouldn't be heating it terribly hot nor for long before I hit it with PB Blaster.

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You must either have weak bits or a really strong impact. :nabble_smiley_oh:

I would be tempted to use my torch with MAPP gas and a small flame. Heat it and quench it with PB Blaster or similar. Heat and quench. I don't think you will get the belt too hot, but then I wouldn't be heating it terribly hot nor for long before I hit it with PB Blaster.

I might still try that. More worried about damaging the paint than messing with the bolt.

As for the impact, I had used a cheater bar on it already and was using a 1/2" drive impact that can do 150ft/lbs plus. Can't recall which brand bit it was, but it wasn't impacted rated either.

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I might still try that. More worried about damaging the paint than messing with the bolt.

As for the impact, I had used a cheater bar on it already and was using a 1/2" drive impact that can do 150ft/lbs plus. Can't recall which brand bit it was, but it wasn't impacted rated either.

150 ft-lbs isn't all that much. My "big" impact is Harbor Freight's pneumatic Earthquake and it is good for about 1000 if I remember correctly.

So I'm surprised that your torx bit broke with your impact.

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150 ft-lbs isn't all that much. My "big" impact is Harbor Freight's pneumatic Earthquake and it is good for about 1000 if I remember correctly.

So I'm surprised that your torx bit broke with your impact.

Yeah. I say at least because I've never actually checked out against a torque wrench. Either way, it wasn't an impact but so I'm not surprised.

Found a TP55 impact on Amazon I'll get ordered to try next.

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Yeah. I say at least because I've never actually checked out against a torque wrench. Either way, it wasn't an impact but so I'm not surprised.

Found a TP55 impact on Amazon I'll get ordered to try next.

I drilled the bolt hollow from the bottom and used a big flathead to loosen after I cut a notch on top, there wasn't enough clearance for anything else. This is after stripping the head, multiple soakings with penetrating oil, torch, hammering a torx socket into the head, yelling at it, braising on a socket, therapy, and channel locks.

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I drilled the bolt hollow from the bottom and used a big flathead to loosen after I cut a notch on top, there wasn't enough clearance for anything else. This is after stripping the head, multiple soakings with penetrating oil, torch, hammering a torx socket into the head, yelling at it, braising on a socket, therapy, and channel locks.

I have thought about this too and may end up doing it that way. I need to pull out the centering tool I have for doing it and see if I have one big enough for that size bolt. I think do.

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I drilled the bolt hollow from the bottom and used a big flathead to loosen after I cut a notch on top, there wasn't enough clearance for anything else. This is after stripping the head, multiple soakings with penetrating oil, torch, hammering a torx socket into the head, yelling at it, braising on a socket, therapy, and channel locks.

I feel your pain... :nabble_smiley_cry:

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