grumpin Posted October 5 Share Posted October 5 I replaced all three motors at different times on my 92 Bronco. I remember drilling a hole in the inner door to get to the mount bolts easier. I think I had seen someone do that on another Ford truck I owned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted October 11 Author Share Posted October 11 Back to my plan to change the heads...I've decided to change my 302-stock heads to the GT40 or GT40P, if I'll get a pair...but this seems not to be so easy...🤨 I asked myself another question: What's about the lifters on the GT40 heads? Are the GT40 heads made for roller lifter? If they are, I also need a new cam, as far as I know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted October 12 Share Posted October 12 Rene' the heads have nothing to do with the lifter style. The difference on the heads is ball stud or sled rockers. Early heads used a half ball on a stud that the cast or forged steel rockers ran on, these required a head with guide slots or guide plates under the rocker studs. Either required hardened push rods lest they wear through from rubbing on the guides (either slots in the head or plates). The later sled style rockers use a pedestal that fits snugly in a machined slot on the head so it acts like it is on a shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted Saturday at 07:21 AM Author Share Posted Saturday at 07:21 AM (edited) Ok, I've understood. So you can change the flat tapped to roller lifters by additionaly changing only the cam and the pushrods? I thought, there was something else, that is different, when not the heads, are the blocks different? Edited Saturday at 01:00 PM by ReneH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted Sunday at 12:36 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 12:36 PM (edited) Hi! Some weeks ago, I have had a unusual smell inside the cabin. I've looked under the hood to determine what this smell causes. I found nothing, so I drove on. I also had the opinion, that the engine doesn't run as smooth as the time before, but nothing that really worries me. We had an ambient of about 12 degrees Celsius and the coolant temperature gauge won't come over the middle, but the hoses feel OK, regarding their temperature... Now, yesterday I have driven the Bronco inside my workshop to check how and where to install the parking heater. I was driven some miles before. Inside my workshop I've opened the hood with the engine running. Suddenly I've seen steam rising on the passenger side, near the firewall. Time to take a closer look and see what this steam causes...also the unusual smell was back before... You won't believe it...the engine has shoot out the PCV valve out of the rubber inside the valve cover! So, this explains the smell and also the a bit unsteady run of the engine. I have changed the PCV some month ago, now see how it looks inside: I have installed my original PCV, that I have cleand before...now I'll see, how this one will behave... Edited Sunday at 12:37 PM by ReneH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted Sunday at 12:51 PM Share Posted Sunday at 12:51 PM Wow! I've never encountered that! But I can see that if the PCV valve is plugged the pressure in the engine can push it out of the grommet. Glad you found it! On your roller lifter question, I'm not an expert at all, but have done some reading. This discussion in The Cobra Club forum might help. And one of the key statements is "The dog bones are used to keep the lifters from rotating. Flat tappets need to rotate, or they develop flat spots. Roller lifters need to keep the roller wheel aligned with the cam." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted Tuesday at 11:12 PM Share Posted Tuesday at 11:12 PM On 10/13/2024 at 8:36 AM, ReneH said: I have changed the PCV some month ago, now see how it looks inside: René, you replaced your old PCV with the one on the picture?  Its rubber seal is completely cracked... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted yesterday at 05:21 AM Author Share Posted yesterday at 05:21 AM Yes, but as I've replaced it, it was new and worked. On the picture you see how this new PCV looks after about 2,000 miles. Now I have replaced it with my old one again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted 17 hours ago Share Posted 17 hours ago Have you done the leak-down test? You may have a lot of blowby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted 17 hours ago Author Share Posted 17 hours ago Only on cylinder no. One, which has performed as following: for the others, i have had no desire to measure at this time...😬 Currently, I try to make a plan what I have to do next...first I will install my parking heater and auxiliary tank, cause winter is coming...maybe I'll combine it with replacing the rest of the wiring harness...but I think it's better to do this, when my E4OD is ready, cause I will move the ECU inside the glove compartment and setup two new distributor boxes on the inner fenders of the engine bay. As you've already mentioned, the loss of oil is acceptable and the best is to get rid of it, when changing the heads, intake and converting the pulley of the alternator, crankshaft and waterpump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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