Fender Flares For Big Blue?

[Gary Lewis]

I have two questions:

1. What do you think of installing fender flares on Big Blue?

2. If you like the idea, what style?

Background: Last week we encountered muddy roads a couple of times and Big Blue through mud EVERYWHERE, including on the hood, roof, windows, and toolbox. It was just RAINING mud.

So I'm considering adding fender flares to contain the mud a bit as I'm sure we'll encounter mud many more times in our off road travels. And that's what prompts the two questions above.

So if you like the idea then what particular ones?

Bushwhacker makes two different kinds, Cut-Out Flares and Extend-A-Fender. Janey and I don't like the Cut-Out ones, neither the look nor the fact that you have to cut the lip of the wheelwell off. But we think we like the look of the Extend-A-Fenders, although they only extend 1 3/4". I'm not sure that's enough but will look tomorrow to see how much the tires stick out.

We discussed this three years ago and in that discussion Angelo posted the pic below, and he thought they were from Lund but go by the name Extend-A-Fender. I suspect they are actually from Bushwhacker, so I'll share the pic to show what I'm thinking about.

Do you know of others? What do you think?

 

[Nothing Special]

I love the idea of fender flares but I'm not always a fan of the execution.

Living up here in the buckle of the rust belt, anything that compromises the sheet metals protection is something to be avoided. Oswald (hey, I got to use his name!) came to me with fender flares. A lot of the worst rust started under them, either at the screw holes, or where debris got trapped. He is not getting flares put back on after the rust is (hopefully) fixed.

That said, you don't live in the rust belt. And flares certainly help keep the mud contained. So they may well be a good option for you.

On the "what style," I'd tend to shy away from cutting the original fenders out too (see what i said above about compromising the rust protection). I do have flares on cut out fender on the rear fenders of Pluto, but they came to me cut, and that's about the only way to put bigger tires on an old Bronco.

Sorry if that's too wishy-washy, but it's what I've got.

[salans7]

I love the idea of fender flares but I'm not always a fan of the execution.

Living up here in the buckle of the rust belt, anything that compromises the sheet metals protection is something to be avoided. Oswald (hey, I got to use his name!) came to me with fender flares. A lot of the worst rust started under them, either at the screw holes, or where debris got trapped. He is not getting flares put back on after the rust is (hopefully) fixed.

That said, you don't live in the rust belt. And flares certainly help keep the mud contained. So they may well be a good option for you.

On the "what style," I'd tend to shy away from cutting the original fenders out too (see what i said above about compromising the rust protection). I do have flares on cut out fender on the rear fenders of Pluto, but they came to me cut, and that's about the only way to put bigger tires on an old Bronco.

Sorry if that's too wishy-washy, but it's what I've got.

I'm against fender flares for one important reason; they tend to gouge your paint. I have factory "extend a fender" style flares on my 2003 Ranger, and they have rubbed into my paint over the last twenty years. You can't see it with them on, but it's noticeable when they're off. I've seen where some guys would install rubber protective strips behind the flares to prevent this, but have seen those also fail to protect the paint beneath the flares as well.

I personally would rather the mud and stones scuff my paint, than for plastic flares to gouge it.

 

[Rembrant]

Living up here in the buckle of the rust belt, anything that compromises the sheet metals protection is something to be avoided. Oswald (hey, I got to use his name!) came to me with fender flares. A lot of the worst rust started under them, either at the screw holes, or where debris got trapped. He is not getting flares put back on after the rust is (hopefully) fixed.

It's really common around here for people to install fender flares to HIDE rust lol, so every time I see them I think oh...that truck is rusted all around the fender/wheel well openings. So they either cause rust...or they're installed to hide rust lol.

So bad news in the rust belt...

Otherwise, I'm sure they're fine, but I have zero experience other than rust.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Living up here in the buckle of the rust belt, anything that compromises the sheet metals protection is something to be avoided. Oswald (hey, I got to use his name!) came to me with fender flares. A lot of the worst rust started under them, either at the screw holes, or where debris got trapped. He is not getting flares put back on after the rust is (hopefully) fixed.

It's really common around here for people to install fender flares to HIDE rust lol, so every time I see them I think oh...that truck is rusted all around the fender/wheel well openings. So they either cause rust...or they're installed to hide rust lol.

So bad news in the rust belt...

Otherwise, I'm sure they're fine, but I have zero experience other than rust.

Thanks guys. Let me respond to some of the comments.

But first, I measured today and found that the front axle is offset to the right 1/4". I say that because the LF tire is 1 3/4" out from the wheelwell and the RF is 2 1/4" out. Oddly enough, the rear tires are maybe 1/8" in from the edge of the wheelwells, and nicely centered.

So the Extend-A-Fenders from Bushwhacker at 1 3/4" are almost but not quite big enough. But I think they'd make a big difference.

Bob - Not going to cut the fenders. No way, Jose. As for rust at the screws, I'll put them in with anti-seize and hope that helps. Or, is there a better way?

Shaun - I understand what you are saying about the paint, but my first thought was that I'd put double-stick tape on the lip that goes against the fender. But then I downloaded the installation instructions and found the illustration below shows that the flares come with double-stick tape to do exactly that. So I'm hoping they won't damage the paint. And even if they do I plan to have the truck painted some day. Besides, see the next comment.

Cory - In a way I'll be hiding rust as there is rust above the rear wheelwells. And hopefully these will hide it.

All - I'm still wanting input, both on whether to as well as what brand.

[Rembrant]

But first, I measured today and found that the front axle is offset to the right 1/4". I say that because the LF tire is 1 3/4" out from the wheelwell and the RF is 2 1/4" out. Oddly enough, the rear tires are maybe 1/8" in from the edge of the wheelwells, and nicely centered.

My '84 F150 had a similar offset, but to the driver's side. The left front wheel stuck out a solid 1/2" more than the passenger side, if not more. I wasn't quite sure why it was like that until I removed the core support, and found that it was hard to the RH side of the truck. So in my case, it was the cab not centered on the frame. With factory skinny tires and wheels you'd never notice it, but when your wheels "poke" and stick out a bit, it becomes noticeable.

 

[Gary Lewis]

But first, I measured today and found that the front axle is offset to the right 1/4". I say that because the LF tire is 1 3/4" out from the wheelwell and the RF is 2 1/4" out. Oddly enough, the rear tires are maybe 1/8" in from the edge of the wheelwells, and nicely centered.

My '84 F150 had a similar offset, but to the driver's side. The left front wheel stuck out a solid 1/2" more than the passenger side, if not more. I wasn't quite sure why it was like that until I removed the core support, and found that it was hard to the RH side of the truck. So in my case, it was the cab not centered on the frame. With factory skinny tires and wheels you'd never notice it, but when your wheels "poke" and stick out a bit, it becomes noticeable.

It could be that the cab is offset. I did find that the frame was bent when I got the truck, but I did fix it - I think. Maybe the cab didn't get moved back as I didn't do anything with it after fixing the frame?

Maybe I could center it up with the track bar?

[Gary Lewis]

It could be that the cab is offset. I did find that the frame was bent when I got the truck, but I did fix it - I think. Maybe the cab didn't get moved back as I didn't do anything with it after fixing the frame?Maybe I could center it up with the track bar?

Well, maybe I misunderstood the trim that goes on the edge. I thought it is double-stick tape but it may be more like a split vacuum hose if what I'm seeing in this video is correct. Yes, it is for a '91, but...

 

And I'm not sure about cutting the trim. Will have to look tomorrow.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Well, maybe I misunderstood the trim that goes on the edge. I thought it is double-stick tape but it may be more like a split vacuum hose if what I'm seeing in this video is correct. Yes, it is for a '91, but...

 

And I'm not sure about cutting the trim. Will have to look tomorrow.

 

Actually, going back to Angelo's post from three years ago it doesn't look like Big Blue's trim would have to be cut. This is the same trim I have:

[351FUN]

Actually, going back to Angelo's post from three years ago it doesn't look like Big Blue's trim would have to be cut. This is the same trim I have:

Gary I added bushwacker flares to lil green when I did the engine swap, mostly to cut out the rot but it also let me run 37" humvee surplus tires with stock suspension.

Now on 35's they look a little small, but drive substantially better.