Gary Lewis Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 Also, after leaving the pressure tester on the coolant system for about an hour, a very small leak started at the rear passenger side intake location. It is very small. See annotated pic: So, the question I am trying to sort through is: while running (see videos posted previously) this location did not appear to be leaking from any angle. All the while having an active leak some where that showed itself at the rear main crank seal. (see coolant leak video). This is THE ONLY leak that has shown up (minus the hose connections when pumped up to 20 psi) so I am still "evaluating evidence". 🤓 I think you have either a leak at the intake/head interface or the head/block interface. And the intake/head is the most likely as it isn't all that hard to get the intake on at an angle. Been there, done that. The head will sit down correctly on the block, but even with guide bolts it is possible to get the intake cocked a little bit, and that will cause a leak. So, that's my bet. And when it leaks there it runs down the head/block interface until it can cover over the back of the block and into the bell housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 I think you have either a leak at the intake/head interface or the head/block interface. And the intake/head is the most likely as it isn't all that hard to get the intake on at an angle. Been there, done that. The head will sit down correctly on the block, but even with guide bolts it is possible to get the intake cocked a little bit, and that will cause a leak. So, that's my bet. And when it leaks there it runs down the head/block interface until it can cover over the back of the block and into the bell housing. Thanks Gary. At this point I am going to assume a rock solid engine shop's work is far superior to mine and I'm going with redoing the intake. HOWEVER, I still can't understand how that leak (which was undetectable while running as seen in the one video) is the culprit and supplying as much coolant as was present at the bottom of the bell housing. 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted September 26, 2018 Author Share Posted September 26, 2018 Tonight's progress (9.25.18) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 Tonight's progress (9.25.18) I found some rather odd bumps on the housing so I decided to try and get them off. Man! did this thing become my new favorite in about 2 minutes! The 80 grit flap wheel was a bit aggressive but it worked really well taking the material down quickly. I decided to even take down some of the seams in the case from the mold. I don't need it to be perfect but any seam I can get smooth so the paint has a better shot at adhering I'm going for it. Anyone have any favorite tools / brushes / wire wheels they recommend for getting in the "nooks & crannies"? I can't explain the volume of coolant, but perhaps it was due to things getting hot and expanding? On the tranny and t-case, I use nylon, brass, and stainless steel brushes in a toothbrush size for things like that. I spray the tranny down with brake cleaner until I have it pretty clean, and then spray an area and brush. Spray and brush. Then, when I think I'm done I spray it all down again. But, one issue you'll have is the table you have it resting on. I've used my shop crane to dangle them or an engine stand to bolt them to, and then placed a large drip pan under them with paper towels in it to keep the drips from spattering. Can you run a nut/bolt arrangement in the mounting holes and get the tranny up off the table? And then put a large drip pan under the bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 Well the week was busy with our 55th annual Barnesville Pumpkin Festival but I tried to get back at it tonight. A little progress to report... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 Well the week was busy with our 55th annual Barnesville Pumpkin Festival but I tried to get back at it tonight. A little progress to report... Here are a few of the markings that some may be interested in: Second Band Servo Housing: Spent many hours on degreaser, wire wheels, and thinner! I used the Rustoleum Metal Etch primer. Wow! That look amazing! Very well done. It is going to be a shame to hide that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 Wow! That look amazing! Very well done. It is going to be a shame to hide that. I know it won't be so easy to see behind the slightly taller 351, but I've had a few people comment on my freshly painted M5OD behind my little 302. You can see it back there if you're looking around the engine bay;). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 I used the Rustoleum Metal Etch primer. I used Cast Aluminum engine paint on my 5spd and it really brightened it up. Like Gary says though, what a sin to hide it under the belly of the truck...lol. Still...what it really does is make everything very easy to work on, and it makes leaks very visible (if you have any). Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 I used the Rustoleum Metal Etch primer. I used Cast Aluminum engine paint on my 5spd and it really brightened it up. Like Gary says though, what a sin to hide it under the belly of the truck...lol. Still...what it really does is make everything very easy to work on, and it makes leaks very visible (if you have any). Thanks Rembrant! I saw this thread and that pic of your transmission and I couldn't believe how good that turned out!! I kept looking for that picture because I wanted to use that color paint, but couldn't find it again. I decided to go with a flat gray color with a satin clear, which I now regret seeing how awesome that cast color looks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 I used the Rustoleum Metal Etch primer. I used Cast Aluminum engine paint on my 5spd and it really brightened it up. Like Gary says though, what a sin to hide it under the belly of the truck...lol. Still...what it really does is make everything very easy to work on, and it makes leaks very visible (if you have any). And yes, the best benefit is leak detection... which happens to be whipping my tail on the 351W!! 😣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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