Ferdinand

Ferdinand · December 29, 2018

Progress report:

Things are moving along pretty nicely (5 transmission bolt-ups later 🙃) (That's now 9 total)

I did get the TC and new Flywheel indexed properly and it went very smoothly. I decided to unbolt all but the two lowest bell housing bolts and just backed them out to about the last 2 threads and that was enough space for the TC studs to clear the Flywheel. It went very smooth. I was so grateful!

Rembrant · December 29, 2018

Sooo, I get that this would give me an oil leak. Duh, but what about the coolant leak???

Ya know, in hindsight, it's easy to see that it was a missing rear main seal. It was leaking so badly, it had to be a gaping hole like that. BUT...we were looking for a coolant leak, not an oil leak! In any case, at least it is cleared up now. Very happy for you.

The guy that built my engine said he used some sort of Shellac on the coolant ports on the intake and cylinder heads. He told me that that was all he ever used, and all they do is build engines...mostly performance stuff.

Gary Lewis · December 29, 2018

Progress report:
Things are moving along pretty nicely (5 transmission bolt-ups later 🙃) (That's now 9 total)
I did get the TC and new Flywheel indexed properly and it went very smoothly. I decided to unbolt all but the two lowest bell housing bolts and just backed them out to about the last 2 threads and that was enough space for the TC studs to clear the Flywheel. It went very smooth. I was so grateful!

Transmission is back in, driveshafts back together, T-case and tranny linkage done, cross-member & brackets installed, neutral safety switch, speedo cable and shift indicator wiring finished, power steering & fuel pumps back on, and Carb and spacer mounted. I’m hoping to get the alternator bracket figured out tomorrow and get to the core support, so I can hook coolant back up and test fire this sucker!
I'm a pretty big fan of Carb spacers, but I haven't tried this one. We will see how it does:

I am looking forward to trying out one of these High Torque starters. Supposed to way outperform factory equipment. I am also hoping for a little more space between my headers and the starter which I am thinking will lead to less heat-soak 🤞🏼.

I’m still hung up on the alternator bracket. Not sure what to do between modifying the DNA kit or modifying Factory bracket.

I just don't understand why the factory bracket crowds the bypass hose so much!
You can see in the picture below that the holes don't line up.

You are SO CLOSE to firing it! I'd have been dreaming about it all night.

I think the phenolic spacer is a good idea. Get a bunch of heat away from the carb.

And that's a serious looking starter. I assume that in the first pic of it the drive has been unbolted from the rear of the starter?

But I'm lost on the alternator bracket. What mod's does the DNA one need? It looks way better than the factory one, and it doesn't crowd the bypass hose.

However, might you have the factory one on backwards? Might the ears for the alternator go down? And, wouldn't that un-crowd the bypass hose?

Ferdinand · December 29, 2018

You are SO CLOSE to firing it! I'd have been dreaming about it all night.
I think the phenolic spacer is a good idea. Get a bunch of heat away from the carb.
And that's a serious looking starter. I assume that in the first pic of it the drive has been unbolted from the rear of the starter?
But I'm lost on the alternator bracket. What mod's does the DNA one need? It looks way better than the factory one, and it doesn't crowd the bypass hose.
However, might you have the factory one on backwards? Might the ears for the alternator go down? And, wouldn't that un-crowd the bypass hose?

I didn't realize that Fords w/Edelbrock carbs had issues sometimes with fuel boiling, but with the Airgap and 1" spacer I should be in the clear. I've even heard of a few HP gains with each 🤞🏼😉

I did unbolt the face of the starter just so I could check gear lash and to determine the best position for the starter body. There are bolt holes all around the rim of the mounting face so I have several options. I was thinking/hoping the assembly all together would be a bit shorter as well since that is one of my clearance concerns but you can see here its not going to give me much advantage:

Ferdinand · December 29, 2018

You are SO CLOSE to firing it! I'd have been dreaming about it all night.
I think the phenolic spacer is a good idea. Get a bunch of heat away from the carb.
And that's a serious looking starter. I assume that in the first pic of it the drive has been unbolted from the rear of the starter?
But I'm lost on the alternator bracket. What mod's does the DNA one need? It looks way better than the factory one, and it doesn't crowd the bypass hose.
However, might you have the factory one on backwards? Might the ears for the alternator go down? And, wouldn't that un-crowd the bypass hose?

And YES! I am super anxious to get him fired back up!!!

Gary Lewis · December 29, 2018

I didn't realize that Fords w/Edelbrock carbs had issues sometimes with fuel boiling, but with the Airgap and 1" spacer I should be in the clear. I've even heard of a few HP gains with each 🤞🏼😉
I did unbolt the face of the starter just so I could check gear lash and to determine the best position for the starter body. There are bolt holes all around the rim of the mounting face so I have several options. I was thinking/hoping the assembly all together would be a bit shorter as well since that is one of my clearance concerns but you can see here its not going to give me much advantage:

As far as the Alternator bracket, it is a combination bracket so the alternator sleeve sits in that recess on the left side where the 7/16" bolt s and hangs below and the Thermactor pump sets in the cradle with the 5/16" bolt. I am considering cutting off the perches for the Thermactor pump, but the long bolt at the right is actually the pinch point for the Bypass Hose.
The DNA Motoring bracket is considerably better and MUCH lighter. It has recessed holes for the socket head cap screws to set in flush with the face. So, when I flip it, I am thinking it would be good to find little filler sleeves to put in the voids that are machined out so the spacing sleeves will have more to rest against when tightened down. The other issue is that top right bolt hole doesnt line up but I may just drill it out and see how it looks.

Ok, I think I understand on the factory bracket. As for modifying it, this post on FTE shows how I did it on a very different bracket. Doubt it'll be helpful, but just in case.

On the DNA bracket, can you use washers as the "filler sleeves"?

Steve83 · December 29, 2018

I am looking forward to trying out one of these High Torque starters. Supposed to way outperform factory equipment. I am also hoping for a little more space between my headers and the starter which I am thinking will lead to less heat-soak 🤞🏼.

Did you consider/check a factory '92-96 PMGR starter? It's more-compact than that aftermarket one because it uses (stronger) planetary reduction instead of spur.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/285644/thumbnail/starterexploded.jpg

I just don't understand why the factory bracket crowds the bypass hose so much!

Do you have any "before" pics showing how that bracket was originally installed? I'm with Gary - it looks like you should rotate it 180° (about the bolts' axes) so the crescent cutout is toward the water pump, and the interfering bolt ear is pointing down beside the exhaust manifold. The bypass hose would then be against the bolt with the crackling paint, right where your hand is.

Rembrant · December 29, 2018

Rembrant,
Most all of my reconditioning has been blasting it down to etch the metal. Then I use a metal etching primer of some sort then rattle can. All the black has been Rustoleum Professional Grade Gloss black and the the Grey has been a Duplicolor Graphite Grey that I am really liking as a subtle contrast against all the black.

Hey Ferdinand,

The Graphite Grey you used on the air cleaner cover, is it a color match paint for a specific vehicle, or an engine paint, etc?

I went looking for it, and there were several versions there, mostly manufacturer specific touch up paints.

If you still have any, can you tell me what code it is?

I've tried to refinish my 5.0 H.0. cover, and I'm still not happy with it. I think blast and paint is going to be a much better solution.

Ferdinand · December 30, 2018

Rembrant,
Most all of my reconditioning has been blasting it down to etch the metal. Then I use a metal etching primer of some sort then rattle can. All the black has been Rustoleum Professional Grade Gloss black and the the Grey has been a Duplicolor Graphite Grey that I am really liking as a subtle contrast against all the black.

Hey Ferdinand,
The Graphite Grey you used on the air cleaner cover, is it a color match paint for a specific vehicle, or an engine paint, etc?
I went looking for it, and there were several versions there, mostly manufacturer specific touch up paints.
If you still have any, can you tell me what code it is?
I've tried to refinish my 5.0 H.0. cover, and I'm still not happy with it. I think blast and paint is going to be a much better solution.

Evening Rembrant,

Here is the barcode for what I used. Believe it or not it is just rattle can Duplicolor for wheels...

Ferdinand · December 30, 2018

So I started with trying to decide what to do with the alternator and bracket. The factory mount was way too crowded as you can see in the following pics: