Steve83 Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Anyone out there use sealant on the rail gaskets on an intake?IMO, the best gasket sealant against coolant (hoses & paper gaskets) is Indian Head Shellac. We used it religiously at the Land Rover dealership on their intake pans (which were 1-piece stamped steel with gasket paper on both sides). But it's so aggressive & fast-tacking that there's not much working time to assemble an intake with separate gaskets. That caused a big crankcase leak on the first smallblock I tried it on. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1053105/thumbnail/05gray36.jpg So on the last 2 I installed, I used E6000, but I haven't started either engine yet, so I can't tell you how well it works (or not). https://supermotors.net/getfile/1056052/thumbnail/05gray61.jpg But shellac worked perfectly on the 4.6L silicone O-rings I just fixed for my mother: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1138861/thumbnail/20180815_174815.jpg I also like Permatex Copper Coat spray for coolant gaskets & hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Anyone out there use sealant on the rail gaskets on an intake?IMO, the best gasket sealant against coolant (hoses & paper gaskets) is Indian Head Shellac. We used it religiously at the Land Rover dealership on their intake pans (which were 1-piece stamped steel with gasket paper on both sides). But it's so aggressive & fast-tacking that there's not much working time to assemble an intake with separate gaskets. That caused a big crankcase leak on the first smallblock I tried it on. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1053105/thumbnail/05gray36.jpg So on the last 2 I installed, I used E6000, but I haven't started either engine yet, so I can't tell you how well it works (or not). https://supermotors.net/getfile/1056052/thumbnail/05gray61.jpg But shellac worked perfectly on the 4.6L silicone O-rings I just fixed for my mother: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1138861/thumbnail/20180815_174815.jpg I also like Permatex Copper Coat spray for coolant gaskets & hoses. Years ago I used Indian Head a bunch, and it worked well. But you are right that its "work time" isn't long enough for something like an intake manifold - especially when using my trick of letting the RTV sit overnight. As for E6000, I haven't used it. But I'm seeing a max temp of from 150 to 180 degrees depending on whose writeup I read, and that seems low for engine use. Am I reading about the wrong thing? On the other hand, The Right Stuff may well be "the right stuff" for the end walls. I've used it for other things, quite successfully, and since it seals "instantly" according to the instructions you wouldn't have to wait overnight. But, the part that has worried me is the "assemble parts within 5 minutes" in the instructions. If the engine is on a stand then I can see getting the intake manifold down w/in that time. But if the engine is still in the vehicle it might be dicey. However, I'm old and slow, so maybe I'm being too cautious? And Copper Coat is my go-to for head gaskets. But I've not tried it on intake manifold gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Years ago I used Indian Head a bunch, and it worked well. But you are right that its "work time" isn't long enough for something like an intake manifold - especially when using my trick of letting the RTV sit overnight. As for E6000, I haven't used it. But I'm seeing a max temp of from 150 to 180 degrees depending on whose writeup I read, and that seems low for engine use. Am I reading about the wrong thing? On the other hand, The Right Stuff may well be "the right stuff" for the end walls. I've used it for other things, quite successfully, and since it seals "instantly" according to the instructions you wouldn't have to wait overnight. But, the part that has worried me is the "assemble parts within 5 minutes" in the instructions. If the engine is on a stand then I can see getting the intake manifold down w/in that time. But if the engine is still in the vehicle it might be dicey. However, I'm old and slow, so maybe I'm being too cautious? And Copper Coat is my go-to for head gaskets. But I've not tried it on intake manifold gaskets. I never put anything on head gaskets, or let silicone fully-cure before assembly (I just let it skin over in some applications). The only time I've had to remove RightStuff was when I went to lunch before assembling the parts - its working time seems to be slightly longer than described. And we used a LOT of it at the LR dealership. I'll let you know if the E6000 creates any problems, but it could be a while. One of those 5.8s is in my '93EB Bronco project (which is dragging out due to other priorities, of course), and the other is just a spare to go in the junkpile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 20, 2018 Author Share Posted December 20, 2018 Thanks for all the feedback on gaskets gentlemen. I can't believe there are so many options out there!! I think I am going to try Fel Pro Performance gaskets with printoseal. I will let you know if it works out 👍🏼 Another question: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 Thanks for all the feedback on gaskets gentlemen. I can't believe there are so many options out there!! I think I am going to try Fel Pro Performance gaskets with printoseal. I will let you know if it works out 👍🏼 Another question: This bolt seems to be integrated into the shifting blade inside the T-Case. I am curious as to what it really does, what its proper name is, and do I need to run it all the way in and does it have a torque spec? I can't tell for sure, but if that is an NP208 then I suspect that is # 7233 on the Illustration tab here: Driveline/Transfer Cases. It shows on the Parts List tab as the poppet screw, and on the Instructions tab as being torqued to 20 - 25 lb-ft. But don't take my word for it, please check it out to make sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 I can't tell for sure, but if that is an NP208 then I suspect that is # 7233 on the Illustration tab here: Driveline/Transfer Cases. It shows on the Parts List tab as the poppet screw, and on the Instructions tab as being torqued to 20 - 25 lb-ft. But don't take my word for it, please check it out to make sure. Yes, it preloads the index sping, and seals that bore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 Yes, it preloads the index sping, and seals that bore. Thanks for the info Gary & Steve. It is an NP208 so I will get that thing torqued down! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 Hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas!! Progress update: Only way to get some use out of the Bronco right now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas!! Progress update: Only way to get some use out of the Bronco right now... Made some good progress today though. Got everything prepped yesterday afternoon. The set went smooth for the motor. The transmission was another story. I bolted and unbolted it 4 times. I couldn't figure out why once it was all bolted together why I couldn't get the motor to turn. In desperation I lowered it for the third time and checked the Torque Converter (TC from here on out). Sure enough, there was a tiny little bit of travel left to go to FULLY seat it and after I wiggled it around for a good 4-5 minutes it finally slid back a little further. 4th and final time I raised it up and bolted it together we are good to go. I do have a question though: Once I finally got everything bolted back together, I noticed the difference the depth at which the TC was sitting in relation to the new flywheel. My question is has anyone else seen/experienced this? Is it ok to now pull the TC forward with the bolts as they tighten against the face of the flywheel? I certainly don't want to risk a leak! As always any help or advice is greatly appreciated! You are making excellent progress! Congrat's! As for the torque converter, it is ok to pull it forward with the bolts. BUT, the bolts should not take much force to turn them. You should snug them down in a pattern where #2 is across from #1, and go around that way so you don't cock the thing and cause the knob on the front to bind in the pilot hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 You are making excellent progress! Congrat's! As for the torque converter, it is ok to pull it forward with the bolts. BUT, the bolts should not take much force to turn them. You should snug them down in a pattern where #2 is across from #1, and go around that way so you don't cock the thing and cause the knob on the front to bind in the pilot hole. Excellent! Thanks Gary. I'm telling you, from what I see on here you really take helping people seriously. I am sure I am not alone when I say this but you and this site are a wealth of information and my most valuable resource to this project!!! Have a great day sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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