Gary Lewis Posted October 23, 2018 Share Posted October 23, 2018 I'm thinking if you can manage a transmission, a T-case would be walk in the park! Maybe so. But the last time I needed a t-case rebuilt I was knee-deep in other alligators. So I farmed it out and saved a lot of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted October 27, 2018 Author Share Posted October 27, 2018 Progress to date: I would really love to get all this installed back in this weekend and fire it up again to continue the quest for leaks... I have no idea if these casting marks are of any value or interest for folks but they are documented none-the-less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 Progress to date: I would really love to get all this installed back in this weekend and fire it up again to continue the quest for leaks... I have no idea if these casting marks are of any value or interest for folks but they are documented none-the-less. Finished Tcase turned out well I thought: Trying to get the belly in better shape to be a background for the newly reconditioned gear. Transfer case shift linkage. Since I don't have the budget for new front end trim I think I'm going to blast it all and go with Graphite Gray. Excellent! I like the little details, like the oil level and NP emblem in black. Things look really good! On the headlight doors, what media do you use at what pressure on plastic? I ask because I messed up when I used coal slag on a door panel as whatever pressure I used embedded some of the slag in the plastic. I realize that the headlight doors are harder plastic, but I'm just trying to learn. And will you do the grille and the upper and lower trim pieces as well? I'm thinking of doing those pieces in black for Big Blue some day to go with the to-be rear bumper, step bars, and maybe a revised front bumper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted October 29, 2018 Author Share Posted October 29, 2018 Excellent! I like the little details, like the oil level and NP emblem in black. Things look really good! On the headlight doors, what media do you use at what pressure on plastic? I ask because I messed up when I used coal slag on a door panel as whatever pressure I used embedded some of the slag in the plastic. I realize that the headlight doors are harder plastic, but I'm just trying to learn. And will you do the grille and the upper and lower trim pieces as well? I'm thinking of doing those pieces in black for Big Blue some day to go with the to-be rear bumper, step bars, and maybe a revised front bumper. Gary, I am also using Black Beauty (cheap coal slag). I am running at about 90psi since I have been doing so much heavy blasting on frame parts. However, I am just holding about 6" back from the plastic and am using sweeping motions to ensure I don't damage the plastic. Since these are junk yard parts, I don't mind if they don't end up perfect, but I think I am really going to like the finished product. I do plan on painting the bezels, top & bottom rails and the Grille all the same Graphite color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted October 29, 2018 Author Share Posted October 29, 2018 Excellent! I like the little details, like the oil level and NP emblem in black. Things look really good! On the headlight doors, what media do you use at what pressure on plastic? I ask because I messed up when I used coal slag on a door panel as whatever pressure I used embedded some of the slag in the plastic. I realize that the headlight doors are harder plastic, but I'm just trying to learn. And will you do the grille and the upper and lower trim pieces as well? I'm thinking of doing those pieces in black for Big Blue some day to go with the to-be rear bumper, step bars, and maybe a revised front bumper. I was curious if anyone would notice the detailing. Glad you liked it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted October 29, 2018 Author Share Posted October 29, 2018 Well it's in but MAN, did it come out a lot easier than it went back in!! OYE!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 29, 2018 Share Posted October 29, 2018 Well it's in but MAN, did it come out a lot easier than it went back in!! OYE!!! Debating the need to reinstall the factory heat shield that was bolted to the passenger side of the T case. It won't have cats again, so I am thinking I could get by without it. Anyone have any thoughts otherwise? Next is driveshafts, both shift linkages, and the various electrical and vacuum components. Sure was hoping to get to fire her up this weekend but just ran out of time. Maybe next weekend, Lord willing. The harder plastic may be fine with the hard media, but I switch to walnut hulls for plastic after that experience. Glad you got it back in. As for the heat shield, I don't think you'll need it. And, "the Lord willing" is the right attitude. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 The harder plastic may be fine with the hard media, but I switch to walnut hulls for plastic after that experience. Glad you got it back in. As for the heat shield, I don't think you'll need it. And, "the Lord willing" is the right attitude. Amen brother. Gary, I am going to try and get some undercarriage painting done these next few days and try to fire it up over the weekend, but I would love to get my doors adjusted better in that whole process. Any ideas, tips, videos on how to adjust these doors? They look overly simple which is great until you need to adjust them... The biggest issue I have is that the driver's door will only latch half way when closed (even slammed) and won't fully latch unless I push pretty hard as I slam it shut. (All original weather stripping too so no such back there) Any thoughts on how to best go about adjusting them to close properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 1, 2018 Share Posted November 1, 2018 Amen brother. Gary, I am going to try and get some undercarriage painting done these next few days and try to fire it up over the weekend, but I would love to get my doors adjusted better in that whole process. Any ideas, tips, videos on how to adjust these doors? They look overly simple which is great until you need to adjust them... The biggest issue I have is that the driver's door will only latch half way when closed (even slammed) and won't fully latch unless I push pretty hard as I slam it shut. (All original weather stripping too so no such back there) Any thoughts on how to best go about adjusting them to close properly? There are two adjustments regarding the door - how the door fits in the opening of the cab, and how deeply it latches into the opening. The way it fits into the opening, meaning how much clearance there is around it and if that clearance is uniform, is adjusted with the bolts that go into the hinges. And the way I've done that is to open the door slightly, support it with a jack, loosen the bolts slightly, raise or lower the jack, and then re-tighten the bolts. And the depth of the latching is adjusted by loosening the striker bolt, moving it up/down or in/out, and tightening it up. And it sounds like this is the adjustment you need. So just loosen the striker, slide it out a bit, and tighten it back down. However, there's always the question of whether the hinges are worn. If so the door will move fairly easily up and down, and you really should replace the pivot in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted November 1, 2018 Author Share Posted November 1, 2018 There are two adjustments regarding the door - how the door fits in the opening of the cab, and how deeply it latches into the opening. The way it fits into the opening, meaning how much clearance there is around it and if that clearance is uniform, is adjusted with the bolts that go into the hinges. And the way I've done that is to open the door slightly, support it with a jack, loosen the bolts slightly, raise or lower the jack, and then re-tighten the bolts. And the depth of the latching is adjusted by loosening the striker bolt, moving it up/down or in/out, and tightening it up. And it sounds like this is the adjustment you need. So just loosen the striker, slide it out a bit, and tighten it back down. However, there's always the question of whether the hinges are worn. If so the door will move fairly easily up and down, and you really should replace the pivot in them. Excellent. I think I may just need to adjust the strike bolt then. The door fits quite well in the opening and the hinges feel pretty tight, bushing wise. One last question for the day and I promise I'll leave you alone 😉 Do you happen to have a parts breakdown of the shifting linkage for the manual NP208 transfer case? I am thinking I need a nylon bushing between where the linkage bolts to the housing but my memory is getting sketchy since it was a month ago when I pulled it out... 🙃 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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