Gsmblue Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 That's a really good point. Edelbrock says no more than 6 psi, so I run a regulator set at 5 1/2. The 1406 on my Bronco 351W is running rich, feels unresponsive sometimes so I have ordered a larger air cleaner and a Holley 12-803 Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Regulator. I am at 4000ft altitude, so the slightly thinner air may be an issue for me. Anyhow, definitely check your fuel pressure.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 Awesome thoughts guys. I will look into trying to figure out my fuel pressure but I'm guessing its a good bit over 4-5 psi. When "checking for vacuum leaks" I used the ether trick. No pickup detected anywhere... The air gap I have has no provision for EGR. I will plug everything off tonight vacuum wise and if this sucker still dies IT HAS TO BE THE FUEL. (I hope 🙃) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 I've said it before and I'll say it again, the EVTM is ridiculously valuable. Thanks a million Gary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 Are these worthy candidates? Please make a recommendation if you know of a better one/cheaper one. (Still want something reliable though 😉) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 Yes, the plug wires are right. I get what you are thinking Gary on the cylinder temps, but with the wires right, could there be a problem with the ignition module maybe? I bought a new one but I did get it from Rock Auto. (I didn't buy the cheap one though) You know, I just realized I bought an extra. I am going to pop that sucker on tonight to try as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Are these worthy candidates? Please make a recommendation if you know of a better one/cheaper one. (Still want something reliable though 😉) No, I don't think it can be the ignition module as it doesn't know which cylinder it is firing. But it won't hurt to swap it. On the fuel pressure regulator, that looks like the one I have and it works well. But, I don't let anything with a Mr. Gasket brand into my shop, much less onto my truck as I've had some really, REALLY awful parts from them. So look for another brand, but one that looks like that is what I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 No, I don't think it can be the ignition module as it doesn't know which cylinder it is firing. But it won't hurt to swap it. On the fuel pressure regulator, that looks like the one I have and it works well. But, I don't let anything with a Mr. Gasket brand into my shop, much less onto my truck as I've had some really, REALLY awful parts from them. So look for another brand, but one that looks like that is what I have. good call. Yes, I usually avoid Mr. Gasket as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 good call. Yes, I usually avoid Mr. Gasket as well. Yep, that should do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 I pulled temps on my cylinders which is another indicator that something is just not right. They are as follows: 1 - 709 2 - 590 3 - 190 4 - 131 5 - 152 6 - 650 7 - 194 8 - 505 Now, I have no idea what these should be just yet and I admittedly didn't shoot each temp at the exact location on the header tube, but this seems way wrong to me. I would expect maybe a 50 degree difference AT MOST between cylinders, but maybe I'm wrong. At this point who knows? Ferdinand, Were you measuring the temperature on each header tube pretty close to the cylinder head? I just went and watched a couple videos of when my 302 was on the dyno last spring, and the exhaust temps at idle were pretty even in the 900-1000 degree range. It's hard to see exactly because I wasn't specifically recording the temps, but I'd say they were in the 950 degree range, plus or minus 50 degrees. On the actual dyno pulls to 5500 RPM, the exhaust temps were up in the area of 1350, maybe 1400 degrees, with some big variances...as much as 150 degrees I would say. I think that's just the nature of carburetors and how they work with the intakes. The engine was pretty well tuned by that point, I think with the AFR in the 13.5 range. I'm not 100% sure, and I'm not at home to dig out my paperwork. Now...on your actual measurements. It looks like you've got a few cylinders not firing. I feel like I'm the guy that always brings bad news, but have you by chance done a compression check? Couple cam lobes washed out during break-in?....this is a flat tappet engine, right? That does happen. Feel free to tell me off...I'm not suggesting that you did anything wrong, but for how long it takes to check the compression, it might not hurt to check it. Even if it wasn't a washed out lobe, maybe it would show a mechanical timing issue?... Just thinking out loud...and I may have missed some info along the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted January 16, 2019 Author Share Posted January 16, 2019 I pulled temps on my cylinders which is another indicator that something is just not right. They are as follows: 1 - 709 2 - 590 3 - 190 4 - 131 5 - 152 6 - 650 7 - 194 8 - 505 Now, I have no idea what these should be just yet and I admittedly didn't shoot each temp at the exact location on the header tube, but this seems way wrong to me. I would expect maybe a 50 degree difference AT MOST between cylinders, but maybe I'm wrong. At this point who knows? Ferdinand, Were you measuring the temperature on each header tube pretty close to the cylinder head? I just went and watched a couple videos of when my 302 was on the dyno last spring, and the exhaust temps at idle were pretty even in the 900-1000 degree range. It's hard to see exactly because I wasn't specifically recording the temps, but I'd say they were in the 950 degree range, plus or minus 50 degrees. On the actual dyno pulls to 5500 RPM, the exhaust temps were up in the area of 1350, maybe 1400 degrees, with some big variances...as much as 150 degrees I would say. I think that's just the nature of carburetors and how they work with the intakes. The engine was pretty well tuned by that point, I think with the AFR in the 13.5 range. I'm not 100% sure, and I'm not at home to dig out my paperwork. Now...on your actual measurements. It looks like you've got a few cylinders not firing. I feel like I'm the guy that always brings bad news, but have you by chance done a compression check? Couple cam lobes washed out during break-in?....this is a flat tappet engine, right? That does happen. Feel free to tell me off...I'm not suggesting that you did anything wrong, but for how long it takes to check the compression, it might not hurt to check it. Even if it wasn't a washed out lobe, maybe it would show a mechanical timing issue?... Just thinking out loud...and I may have missed some info along the way. Rembrant, I think you might be on to something there... I am pulling a compression check tomorrow night. As much as I would hate for that to have happened, it sure would explain a lot! Did plenty of testing tonight and shot some video, but I will have to upload tomorrow. Getting too late and my laptop is at 4% and I left my charger at my office 🙃 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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