Electrical Help

[mat in tn]

Ok let me start over, got the truck a few months ago. I was starting it the other day and it got hungup and keep turning over even though it was running, before i could get it turned off the starter solenoid was smoking. So I have replaced the starter solenoid, voltage regulator, and ignition switch, that didn't fix anything so then i started digging around and I found a couple purple wires and a couple purple/white wires that were melted together. I have since replaced them. I still have zero power and the buzzer won't even go off while the key is in there. I have been chasing down everything with my power probe and I can't find any issues, I have tripled checked my grounds, cables, fuses, and my connections. I checked the neutral safety switch or the thing on the clutch pedal, although there isn't a connector on it, no clue where it could be either. The wiring was poorly taken care of and I don't know what is what because the A/C and stuff aren't hooked up. Anyways sorry for all that. Any help would be great

so, the issue started while starting the truck and the solenoid stuck. and since then, you have no power at all. is that about right? if this is the case then I'm not sure why you replaced the voltage regulator. do you have a test light and or a volt/ohm meter available? the junction at the solenoid on the battery side post should also have the constant hot running to the ignition switch mounted on the column. the ignition switch will distribute the power from there. Except for a couple items which are hot at all times, mainly the headlight switch and any memory devices. the evtm section here is very valuable in tracing down wire colors and connections. but essentially you are tracking down the 12v potential one step at a time from battery to starter checking voltage at each juncture. this is where a good dvm is handy because you are looking for voltage loss along the way. if the battery is holding 12.62v then you need to see that at each new connection also. if at some point you get 12.25 (random number for example) then there is a drop across the last connection. old electronics can corrode and even have carbon build up if there was enough load across it. it still leaves the mystery of why the solenoid stuck. for this exact reason, I only use motorcraft relays now on any restored or resto-mod trucks, especially if for sale. once you get this sorted you may really want to consider upgrading to the newer style pmgr starter. it turns the engine faster with less current draw across the relay. but one issue at a time.

[Littlebeefy]

so, the issue started while starting the truck and the solenoid stuck. and since then, you have no power at all. is that about right? if this is the case then I'm not sure why you replaced the voltage regulator. do you have a test light and or a volt/ohm meter available? the junction at the solenoid on the battery side post should also have the constant hot running to the ignition switch mounted on the column. the ignition switch will distribute the power from there. Except for a couple items which are hot at all times, mainly the headlight switch and any memory devices. the evtm section here is very valuable in tracing down wire colors and connections. but essentially you are tracking down the 12v potential one step at a time from battery to starter checking voltage at each juncture. this is where a good dvm is handy because you are looking for voltage loss along the way. if the battery is holding 12.62v then you need to see that at each new connection also. if at some point you get 12.25 (random number for example) then there is a drop across the last connection. old electronics can corrode and even have carbon build up if there was enough load across it. it still leaves the mystery of why the solenoid stuck. for this exact reason, I only use motorcraft relays now on any restored or resto-mod trucks, especially if for sale. once you get this sorted you may really want to consider upgrading to the newer style pmgr starter. it turns the engine faster with less current draw across the relay. but one issue at a time.

The wiring for your clutch switch (instead of neutral safety switch) will come out of the main harness that runs along the drivers side frame rail. It branches off basically directly under the drivers seat. There is a connector there too.

I have the wiring diagrams for an 84 Bronco. Does this match the connector your wires melted in:

It says C-306, but in the EVTM this is referred to as C-121 (back to what Gary was talking about).

 

[81-F150-Explorer]

The wiring for your clutch switch (instead of neutral safety switch) will come out of the main harness that runs along the drivers side frame rail. It branches off basically directly under the drivers seat. There is a connector there too.

I have the wiring diagrams for an 84 Bronco. Does this match the connector your wires melted in:

It says C-306, but in the EVTM this is referred to as C-121 (back to what Gary was talking about).

Just Curious. Have you checked your fuse links located on the passenger side inner fender well?

There is another fuse link that hooks to the battery hot at all times side of the starter solenoid.

Sometimes these can melt breaking the connection, (as they are designed to do) without disturbing the outer plastic sheath.

[Lance912]

Just Curious. Have you checked your fuse links located on the passenger side inner fender well?

There is another fuse link that hooks to the battery hot at all times side of the starter solenoid.

Sometimes these can melt breaking the connection, (as they are designed to do) without disturbing the outer plastic sheath.

I have checked the links and replaced as needed.

[Lance912]

The wiring for your clutch switch (instead of neutral safety switch) will come out of the main harness that runs along the drivers side frame rail. It branches off basically directly under the drivers seat. There is a connector there too.

I have the wiring diagrams for an 84 Bronco. Does this match the connector your wires melted in:

It says C-306, but in the EVTM this is referred to as C-121 (back to what Gary was talking about).

I believe that is my connector, I will confirm this evening. I should say that I think the wiring has been messed with by previous owners. The only issue right now is the fuel pump not coming on when the key is turned. There is a purple/orange wire running from that same connector that is no longer connected to anything, looks like it should go to the fuse box but I'm trying to locate which spot it should go.