d5TE head Swap-Tips or Tricks?

[Bulletproof250]

I know most of the groups has extensive motor experience, so I thought I'd like to get a idea of what I might be getting myself into from some one who might have already performed this swap. I have a set of headers for my truck as well as an aluminum intake with a 4BBL Holley. In my laziness of not wanting to; 1-not having the truck down too long, 2-not wanting to deal with broken exhaust manifold studs, I decided replacement heads would not be a bad idea. The aftermarket heads are a bit out of the budget for this truck, although i do like any performance i can get. I picked up a set of heads from a 1975 Torino, D5TE-EBs and from what I can understand these have a smaller chamber volume and will up the compressions slightly, (60cc, vs the current 69cc) In my preparations , cleaning and pressure testing these heads is there anything else I should be doing to get a little more from this head swap? Currently I'm into the this project for about $250 in parts.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know anything about the D5TE heads. But you say you've had them cleaned and pressure tested. What about checking the valve guides, valve stem seals, and valve/head seal at the seat?

The guides wear and frequently need replaced on used heads. If they aren't replaced the valves can hit the head at an angle and not properly seal, and that can ultimately burn an exhaust valve.

Valve stem seals wear and get hard, which allows oil to get past them and you'll see smoke in the exhaust - especially when you back off the throttle and the vacuum goes high on the engine.

And the valve-to-head seal should be checked and the valves should probably be lapped or ground to ensure that seal is good. This involves using an abrasive compound where the valve hits the head, which is the seat, but only after new guides are installed (if needed) as that changes the angle of the valve.

I wouldn't install heads w/o having this work done because it is so labor intensive to pull the heads. And since these are known wear points on heads I'd want to know they are "right".

[mat in tn]

I don't know anything about the D5TE heads. But you say you've had them cleaned and pressure tested. What about checking the valve guides, valve stem seals, and valve/head seal at the seat?

The guides wear and frequently need replaced on used heads. If they aren't replaced the valves can hit the head at an angle and not properly seal, and that can ultimately burn an exhaust valve.

Valve stem seals wear and get hard, which allows oil to get past them and you'll see smoke in the exhaust - especially when you back off the throttle and the vacuum goes high on the engine.

And the valve-to-head seal should be checked and the valves should probably be lapped or ground to ensure that seal is good. This involves using an abrasive compound where the valve hits the head, which is the seat, but only after new guides are installed (if needed) as that changes the angle of the valve.

I wouldn't install heads w/o having this work done because it is so labor intensive to pull the heads. And since these are known wear points on heads I'd want to know they are "right".

all very good points and I will add one more. the head gasket surface! it is not only necessary for it to be spotless clean (block too) but after a life of heat cycles, they are often no longer flat. have them milled. whether just to the point of perfectly flat or milling them down to gain more compression is up to you but I usually do this. as a means of being thorough. don't clean head/block surface with anything abrasive as it will make matters worse. a razor blade scraper being an exception if used carefully.

[Rembrant]

The D5TE-EB heads have the old style rail type rocker arms and pushrod guide-plates right? Did you get the rockers and everything with the heads? I thought that the pedestal mount rocker arms only showed up in 1978 with the low compression D8 heads and then carried right on through until the end of the SBF in 2001 or so. Can the pedestal style rocker arms be swapped on? I have only screwed around with the pedestal style rockers myself.

[Bulletproof250]

The D5TE-EB heads have the old style rail type rocker arms and pushrod guide-plates right? Did you get the rockers and everything with the heads? I thought that the pedestal mount rocker arms only showed up in 1978 with the low compression D8 heads and then carried right on through until the end of the SBF in 2001 or so. Can the pedestal style rocker arms be swapped on? I have only screwed around with the pedestal style rockers myself.

These are great responses exactly what I was hoping for.

I will request a check of the valve guides, and flatness.

I do not receive the rockers or push rods, are they not interchangeable? Although after you mentioned it I'm sure they are not going from the Stamped rockers in the Bullnose-era 351w to the Cast (these are off of a Torino). Does that require a push rod change as well? Is there a way, or product, to make them compatible?

Thanks to the Bullnose Forum!

[mat in tn]

These are great responses exactly what I was hoping for.

I will request a check of the valve guides, and flatness.

I do not receive the rockers or push rods, are they not interchangeable? Although after you mentioned it I'm sure they are not going from the Stamped rockers in the Bullnose-era 351w to the Cast (these are off of a Torino). Does that require a push rod change as well? Is there a way, or product, to make them compatible?

Thanks to the Bullnose Forum!

well, the first thing to ask is whether your heads have the studs in place. I do not remember for certain, but I think they are pressed in making them very specific. what we have done is use magnum roller tip rockers made for these type heads as it give a performance/reliability boost at the same time then specific pushrods are not as picky. one benefit is the studs are a bit more adjustable where the pedestals are a fixed setting requiring fine differences in pushrod length. i e 6.25" vs 6.40"in a 5.0roller engine

[Rembrant]

I do not receive the rockers or push rods, are they not interchangeable? Although after you mentioned it I'm sure they are not going from the Stamped rockers in the Bullnose-era 351w to the Cast (these are off of a Torino). Does that require a push rod change as well? Is there a way, or product, to make them compatible?

I don't think they're interchangeable, but I don't know much about the pre-1978 SBF cylinder heads, I just know that the rockers were completely different. The E5 heads will bolt on to the block no problem, but you will likely need rockers and pushrods specific to those heads. One of the guys on here will know more than I do on the topic.

 

[Bulletproof250]

I do not receive the rockers or push rods, are they not interchangeable? Although after you mentioned it I'm sure they are not going from the Stamped rockers in the Bullnose-era 351w to the Cast (these are off of a Torino). Does that require a push rod change as well? Is there a way, or product, to make them compatible?

I don't think they're interchangeable, but I don't know much about the pre-1978 SBF cylinder heads, I just know that the rockers were completely different. The E5 heads will bolt on to the block no problem, but you will likely need rockers and pushrods specific to those heads. One of the guys on here will know more than I do on the topic.

It looks like these are the pressed studs which leads me to believe they might be inline with the "Rail" style rockers. It is not out of my capabilities to convert them to the Screw-in style if that makes them a bit more like the current heads I had originally planned on using the old stamped steel rockers from my current (19080's 351 heads if it's possible. I may have got myself into a bit of a pickle, without initially wanting to get into a full build, therefore a new valve train wasn't in the budget

Any guidance on the best way forward is appreciated.

Thanks,

[Rembrant]

It looks like these are the pressed studs which leads me to believe they might be inline with the "Rail" style rockers. It is not out of my capabilities to convert them to the Screw-in style if that makes them a bit more like the current heads I had originally planned on using the old stamped steel rockers from my current (19080's 351 heads if it's possible. I may have got myself into a bit of a pickle, without initially wanting to get into a full build, therefore a new valve train wasn't in the budget

Any guidance on the best way forward is appreciated.

Thanks,

Well, I can't help much with the D5TE heads or any pre 1978 SBF heads for that matter, so you'll have to find out what is needed for rockers and rods etc to install them on your 80's block. One option...if you were just looking for smaller chambers/higher compression, you could always sell the D5TE heads and pick up a set of E7TE heads. They're plentiful and cheap (usually). They usually run around $100 a set around my area. They came on just about every 302 and 351 from 1987-1996 and are pretty decent for stock heads...I think 60-61cc chambers IIRC. Anyway...that's an option for your back pocket in case you can't make the D5TE heads work cost effectively.

Maybe somebody that knows more about the 70's heads will chime in soon.

[mat in tn]

It looks like these are the pressed studs which leads me to believe they might be inline with the "Rail" style rockers. It is not out of my capabilities to convert them to the Screw-in style if that makes them a bit more like the current heads I had originally planned on using the old stamped steel rockers from my current (19080's 351 heads if it's possible. I may have got myself into a bit of a pickle, without initially wanting to get into a full build, therefore a new valve train wasn't in the budget

Any guidance on the best way forward is appreciated.

Thanks,

well, I always say that the purpose of the build dictates how you build. if this is about getting the truck running and running well then getting a replacement set as close to original is the way. yes, there are a bunch of ideas on improvements, and many are good and worthwhile. however, these trucks were durable and reliable from the factory. what it came with worked. this is why I save everything from upgrades. e7 is a great option and I have bought three sets in as many weeks. frankly I like them, but I also modify them. the only real issue is that you need to get a set from a 5.8 not a 5.0 because the head bolts are 1/2" on the 5.8 where the head bolts are 7/16" on the 5.0. other than that, they are essentially the same. yes, you could have them drilled out as many do, but everything adds cost. I even have a set of e5s on the shelf saved from a 5.8 4bbl ho that I built a few years ago. they would also be a realistic fix for yours options are there if you are not trying to build a monster truck.