ReneH Posted March 16, 2023 Share Posted March 16, 2023 So I will start with a to-do list: 1. Get the engine starting 2. Set and optimize the timing 3. Fix the tailpipe and maybe try to get the exhaust a little quieter 4. Repair the tail window and add a remote-control circuit 5. Add another remote-control circuit to the central locking system. 6. Replace the most of the sealing rubber (doors, windows, etc.) 7. Install a parking-heater (Not a hot-air-type...one of them that pre-heats the engine) 8. Install a secondary heat-changer in hight of and below the rear-seats with air-outlets in the back of the car 9. Install a 7" Android Radio including 360° cams - At this time I plan to drive the car already - 10. Install a new center console 11. Install a radio clock together with an inside- and an outside temperature display 12. Coat all interior plastic parts with leatherette. 13. Replace all outside trims 14. Paint the whole car new in dual colors, choosen from the original available in 1986 So, also I have bought the car over a year ago now, some of you know, that I'm still at point one... Regarding my center console, I have invented one by my own. including a dual subwoofer: It will be made of MDF-boards and coatet with foam and leatherette. So, that's my plan...we will see how much time it will take. Point 1-9 should be done in the next 4 month. 10 and 11 this year. 12 and 13 lately begining of next year. Point 14 isn't sooo important, but necessary... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 29, 2023 Author Share Posted March 29, 2023 The engine is running now. No more backfire, Ok...maybe sometimes slightly backfire...but it runs good so far. So my first point is done. About the 2nd point: I will try to set the timing a bit lower and test what happens. I'm currently at 9-10 degrees. At 12 degrees the advance exceeds 40 degrees at 1,600 rpm. Now I'm at about 38 degrees at about 2,000 rpm. 4th point also 95 percent done. I only have to find a fitting screw to replace the missing one that fixes the window motor. As my control switch inside the car is corroded and also the key switch defect, I currently can only use my remote control to move the window up and down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 29, 2023 Share Posted March 29, 2023 The engine is running now. No more backfire, Ok...maybe sometimes slightly backfire...but it runs good so far. So my first point is done. About the 2nd point: I will try to set the timing a bit lower and test what happens. I'm currently at 9-10 degrees. At 12 degrees the advance exceeds 40 degrees at 1,600 rpm. Now I'm at about 38 degrees at about 2,000 rpm. 4th point also 95 percent done. I only have to find a fitting screw to replace the missing one that fixes the window motor. As my control switch inside the car is corroded and also the key switch defect, I currently can only use my remote control to move the window up and down. On the window motor screws, they are probably 1/4-20 self-tapping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 30, 2023 Author Share Posted March 30, 2023 On the window motor screws, they are probably 1/4-20 self-tapping. Hi Bill, thanks for this. I have to look which of my metric screws will fit. Then I'll change all three to have them identical. Now, as moving the window up and down some times, the motor has to do hard work. Sometimes I have to help it. I already have put on new grease and also cleaned and greased the rails in which the plastic rectangle slides...I also have put silicon spray in the guide rails of the window...maybe the wiring is bad? Too much internal resistance? Or do you think a bad motor is more common? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 30, 2023 Share Posted March 30, 2023 Hi Bill, thanks for this. I have to look which of my metric screws will fit. Then I'll change all three to have them identical. Now, as moving the window up and down some times, the motor has to do hard work. Sometimes I have to help it. I already have put on new grease and also cleaned and greased the rails in which the plastic rectangle slides...I also have put silicon spray in the guide rails of the window...maybe the wiring is bad? Too much internal resistance? Or do you think a bad motor is more common? Rene', any of those are even all of them in some fashion could be a problem. If you go through the wiring manual, it shows where the connectors are located. After 36 years they may be corroded as the window switch in the dash is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 30, 2023 Author Share Posted March 30, 2023 Rene', any of those are even all of them in some fashion could be a problem. If you go through the wiring manual, it shows where the connectors are located. After 36 years they may be corroded as the window switch in the dash is. Hi Bill, maybe I was going too early...I have done a test drive today...about 30 miles. Everything was fine...but after about 20 miles, on my way back home I hear a rattling sound. I also have the feeling that the engine shakes a bit when standing at a traffic light...I have done some videos: I have had no feelable lack of power while driving. I've checked the plugs...all tighten I've checked the oil...very less amount of metal containing. Hereby I have to say that I have done an oil and filter change after breaking-in the cam. The following image shows what a magnet was collecting after dropping some oil into a container: I'm not sure if my dipstick is reading correctly: This is how my plugs looked after the drive: I'm a bit afraid, cause the rattling sounds a bit metallic...in my opinion... I hope there is nothing with the cam or the valves...I hope you can calm me a bit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 30, 2023 Share Posted March 30, 2023 Hi Bill, maybe I was going too early...I have done a test drive today...about 30 miles. Everything was fine...but after about 20 miles, on my way back home I hear a rattling sound. I also have the feeling that the engine shakes a bit when standing at a traffic light...I have done some videos: I have had no feelable lack of power while driving. I've checked the plugs...all tighten I've checked the oil...very less amount of metal containing. Hereby I have to say that I have done an oil and filter change after breaking-in the cam. The following image shows what a magnet was collecting after dropping some oil into a container: I'm not sure if my dipstick is reading correctly: This is how my plugs looked after the drive: I'm a bit afraid, cause the rattling sounds a bit metallic...in my opinion... I hope there is nothing with the cam or the valves...I hope you can calm me a bit... Rene', first item, if those are the correct heat range plugs, you are very lean. That will give you backfiring in the intake under load. Second, noise sounds like a possible header gasket leak, look for carbon tracks around the ports. Sounds pretty good though! Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 30, 2023 Author Share Posted March 30, 2023 Rene', first item, if those are the correct heat range plugs, you are very lean. That will give you backfiring in the intake under load. Second, noise sounds like a possible header gasket leak, look for carbon tracks around the ports. Sounds pretty good though! Bill Hi Bill, I use the original plugs: Motorcraft SP501... header gasket leak??? Sounds not good... I have fixed the head screws with the torque in the Haynes manual... Sounds pretty good though! what do you exactly mean? This rattling, knocking sounds... Where should I look for carbon tracks? When unmounting the intake? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 31, 2023 Share Posted March 31, 2023 Hi Bill, I use the original plugs: Motorcraft SP501... header gasket leak??? Sounds not good... I have fixed the head screws with the torque in the Haynes manual... Sounds pretty good though! what do you exactly mean? This rattling, knocking sounds... Where should I look for carbon tracks? When unmounting the intake? Not head gasket, header, exhaust side of cylinder head. It will make a sound like a lifter ticking. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 31, 2023 Author Share Posted March 31, 2023 Not head gasket, header, exhaust side of cylinder head. It will make a sound like a lifter ticking. Bill Hi Bill, Ohhh...miss reading one letter made me very fearful... Good thing. As I have done some checks yesterday, I haven't done these. But as my shortys have had some problems with fitting the screw holes and now after driving I have had much more vibrations, it's a possibility and one of the easier possible reasons to fix... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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