ReneH Posted March 18, 2023 Author Share Posted March 18, 2023 I do wonder how much we are getting "wires crossed" so to speak. not certain that whether the throttle body itself is from a 5.8 or 5.0. by turning the base idle throttle screw all the way in you are not only allowing more air but rotating the tps also putting it well into the operating range of adding fuel. much as you would by stepping on the pedal. however, by removing a vacuum cap or hose you are not. this tells me that you may be dealing with either a map failure or you may have an injector not sealing shut when told to do so. does the system hold static pressure while turned off and for how long? Hi, I have had checked all injectors last year. They all shut. I also have a video of the spray...it looks good in my opinion... Here is also a video of a spooky sound my throttle body made last year after reassembling: On a specific position of the throttle screw, I can also recreate this whistling... I will check the static pressure later. Today I have checked the TPS value and set it to 1.0V. No chance to start the engine without pushing the pedal... 4.38 ist the maximum I get...is this too less? By holding it at about 1,000 rpm it still runs rich...ok. I have to say that I still have disconnected the SPOUT, maybe this is also a factor. My emissions simulation works very well... It also seems, that I have connected the FPM correctly to the output of the fuel pump relay...by performing KOEO test I get no errors... I have also removed one of the EGR solenoid fakes, cause my 1989 ECU don't have a pin for it...thanks Bill for the help with it! Another interesting thing that happens today was after the KOEO test...I seem to have forgotten to turn the ignition key off. After removing the bridge from STI to SIG RTN, I heard a sound like the fuel pump, when turning the key to stage 1. But now my engine light (was always on when turning the key to stage 1, before) only lights up while cranking...have you ever heard something like this? Later I will put the two holes in each throttle plate and look what happens...BTW...I have a 302 throttle body... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 Hi, I have had checked all injectors last year. They all shut. I also have a video of the spray...it looks good in my opinion... Here is also a video of a spooky sound my throttle body made last year after reassembling: On a specific position of the throttle screw, I can also recreate this whistling... I will check the static pressure later. Today I have checked the TPS value and set it to 1.0V. No chance to start the engine without pushing the pedal... 4.38 ist the maximum I get...is this too less? By holding it at about 1,000 rpm it still runs rich...ok. I have to say that I still have disconnected the SPOUT, maybe this is also a factor. My emissions simulation works very well... It also seems, that I have connected the FPM correctly to the output of the fuel pump relay...by performing KOEO test I get no errors... I have also removed one of the EGR solenoid fakes, cause my 1989 ECU don't have a pin for it...thanks Bill for the help with it! Another interesting thing that happens today was after the KOEO test...I seem to have forgotten to turn the ignition key off. After removing the bridge from STI to SIG RTN, I heard a sound like the fuel pump, when turning the key to stage 1. But now my engine light (was always on when turning the key to stage 1, before) only lights up while cranking...have you ever heard something like this? Later I will put the two holes in each throttle plate and look what happens...BTW...I have a 302 throttle body... Rene', with the SPOUT disconnected, timing is fixed at the static setting (10° BTDC or 12° if you changed it). Plugging it back in may really help as the rpm will probably come up. Do that check before drilling the throttle plates please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 18, 2023 Author Share Posted March 18, 2023 Rene', with the SPOUT disconnected, timing is fixed at the static setting (10° BTDC or 12° if you changed it). Plugging it back in may really help as the rpm will probably come up. Do that check before drilling the throttle plates please. Hi Bill, I've checked it. SPOUT connected, TPS at 1.000 VDC, no chance to start the engine. Disconnecting a vacuum hose or turn the idle adjust screw full inside, the engine starts. IAC recieves 11.6V when turning the key. How can I check if it works? Maybe also I should check the MAP. I have a Voltage meter with frequency measurement. Should I check anything else before drilling? Have I already said, that the throttle body was given in an engine cleaner bath to get rid of the thick deposits in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 18, 2023 Author Share Posted March 18, 2023 Hi Bill, I've checked it. SPOUT connected, TPS at 1.000 VDC, no chance to start the engine. Disconnecting a vacuum hose or turn the idle adjust screw full inside, the engine starts. IAC recieves 11.6V when turning the key. How can I check if it works? Maybe also I should check the MAP. I have a Voltage meter with frequency measurement. Should I check anything else before drilling? Have I already said, that the throttle body was given in an engine cleaner bath to get rid of the thick deposits in it? Sorry for answering myself.... I have read the the TPS needs about 15mins. Of idle run for the ECU to register itself...is this for real? From FSB: My TPS was now adjusted away from the edge of the lower tip-in value. After once again disconnecting the battery with headlights on for 30 minutes to erase any adaptive memory, I started the engine and let it idle for 15 minutes to allow the PCM re-establish a relationship with the new sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 18, 2023 Author Share Posted March 18, 2023 Hi, I have had checked all injectors last year. They all shut. I also have a video of the spray...it looks good in my opinion... Here is also a video of a spooky sound my throttle body made last year after reassembling: On a specific position of the throttle screw, I can also recreate this whistling... I will check the static pressure later. Today I have checked the TPS value and set it to 1.0V. No chance to start the engine without pushing the pedal... 4.38 ist the maximum I get...is this too less? By holding it at about 1,000 rpm it still runs rich...ok. I have to say that I still have disconnected the SPOUT, maybe this is also a factor. My emissions simulation works very well... It also seems, that I have connected the FPM correctly to the output of the fuel pump relay...by performing KOEO test I get no errors... I have also removed one of the EGR solenoid fakes, cause my 1989 ECU don't have a pin for it...thanks Bill for the help with it! Another interesting thing that happens today was after the KOEO test...I seem to have forgotten to turn the ignition key off. After removing the bridge from STI to SIG RTN, I heard a sound like the fuel pump, when turning the key to stage 1. But now my engine light (was always on when turning the key to stage 1, before) only lights up while cranking...have you ever heard something like this? Later I will put the two holes in each throttle plate and look what happens...BTW...I have a 302 throttle body... FYI: My engine light reacts now as before after disconnecting the battery for some time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 Hi Bill, I've checked it. SPOUT connected, TPS at 1.000 VDC, no chance to start the engine. Disconnecting a vacuum hose or turn the idle adjust screw full inside, the engine starts. IAC recieves 11.6V when turning the key. How can I check if it works? Maybe also I should check the MAP. I have a Voltage meter with frequency measurement. Should I check anything else before drilling? Have I already said, that the throttle body was given in an engine cleaner bath to get rid of the thick deposits in it? If the TPS is at 1 V running then you are well within the proper range. IAC you sould be able to hear it hissing with the intake hoses off the throttle body. On the MAP sensor, use the chart I sent early in this discussion in conjunction with a good vacuum gauge. I checked and it gives kPa and inHg so you should be able to check it. I would start just key on, engine not running and first see if you have 5 volts from the Orange/White to Black/White wires (same wires go to EVP and TPS). If you have 5 volts, then you should have around 80Hz at the Dark Green/Light Green wire. If you apply vacuum it should increase in frequency as the pressure drops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 18, 2023 Author Share Posted March 18, 2023 If the TPS is at 1 V running then you are well within the proper range. IAC you sould be able to hear it hissing with the intake hoses off the throttle body. On the MAP sensor, use the chart I sent early in this discussion in conjunction with a good vacuum gauge. I checked and it gives kPa and inHg so you should be able to check it. I would start just key on, engine not running and first see if you have 5 volts from the Orange/White to Black/White wires (same wires go to EVP and TPS). If you have 5 volts, then you should have around 80Hz at the Dark Green/Light Green wire. If you apply vacuum it should increase in frequency as the pressure drops. Hi Bill, Ok, I'll do checking the MAP, but it's only possible when turning the idle screw fully in. Otherwise the engine won't start.... Shouldn't the engine running before I'm checking the MAP? I don't know what should help instead of following your advice, thus to drill the holes into the plates to get it idling... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 18, 2023 Share Posted March 18, 2023 Hi Bill, Ok, I'll do checking the MAP, but it's only possible when turning the idle screw fully in. Otherwise the engine won't start.... Shouldn't the engine running before I'm checking the MAP? I don't know what should help instead of following your advice, thus to drill the holes into the plates to get it idling... No, it doesn't need to be running, the initial check is at atmospheric pressure, then you should be able to suck on the hose to get a response from it. ECU will have to be connected as the 5 V REF comes from it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 18, 2023 Author Share Posted March 18, 2023 No, it doesn't need to be running, the initial check is at atmospheric pressure, then you should be able to suck on the hose to get a response from it. ECU will have to be connected as the 5 V REF comes from it. Oh, Ok...I understand. I'll do tomorrow, cause it's 1 am currently here and I'm a bit tired... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 Oh, Ok...I understand. I'll do tomorrow, cause it's 1 am currently here and I'm a bit tired... Understood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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