ReneH Posted March 13, 2023 Author Share Posted March 13, 2023 obviously, it is wanting more air. with an added vacuum leak, it runs rough but at what rpm. is it struggling or running at 1500? I'm thinking it may be running well enough to check timing at least and see if you need to bring it in a little better. by "throttle body ports connected to canister" do you mean the charcoal canister or vacuum canister? Ok, I have re-checked the timing...it's about 10 degrees BTDC. I also have recorded the fuel pump at ignition key stage one. So with vacuum hose of the power breaks connected it won't start...see here... So, whee should I start to search the error...and how should I connect pin #8, the FPM? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 13, 2023 Author Share Posted March 13, 2023 Ok, I have re-checked the timing...it's about 10 degrees BTDC. I also have recorded the fuel pump at ignition key stage one. So with vacuum hose of the power breaks connected it won't start...see here... So, whee should I start to search the error...and how should I connect pin #8, the FPM? Ok, that's interesting...when pushing the pedal to the floor while starting the engine, it starts...SPOUT disconnected...I think I have read that the injection signal should be interrupted, if throttles are wide open while starting...so it shouldn't start at all...only wipe out the gasoline of the cylinders...or do I have a misunderstanding reading this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 13, 2023 Author Share Posted March 13, 2023 Ok, that's interesting...when pushing the pedal to the floor while starting the engine, it starts...SPOUT disconnected...I think I have read that the injection signal should be interrupted, if throttles are wide open while starting...so it shouldn't start at all...only wipe out the gasoline of the cylinders...or do I have a misunderstanding reading this... So, if I put the idle screw to the max, it will start...rough...but it starts...all with SPOUT disconnected... So maybe there is something bent? The counterplate of the idle screw? TPS problem? No error from the ECU... MAP problem? I don't know where to start... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 14, 2023 Share Posted March 14, 2023 So, if I put the idle screw to the max, it will start...rough...but it starts...all with SPOUT disconnected... So maybe there is something bent? The counterplate of the idle screw? TPS problem? No error from the ECU... MAP problem? I don't know where to start... if it starts and stays running hen that gives you an opportunity to do a couple run tests timing with and without the spout disconnected. measure the return signal from the tps. this can be done without the engine running but key on and adjust the idle screw to the point where the tps return signal is between .5 and 1 volt. I usually set them close to .9v. after that I'm wondering if you are getting proper reading from map sensor. either of these can skew afr/ vac responses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 14, 2023 Author Share Posted March 14, 2023 if it starts and stays running hen that gives you an opportunity to do a couple run tests timing with and without the spout disconnected. measure the return signal from the tps. this can be done without the engine running but key on and adjust the idle screw to the point where the tps return signal is between .5 and 1 volt. I usually set them close to .9v. after that I'm wondering if you are getting proper reading from map sensor. either of these can skew afr/ vac responses. Ok, I will check the TPS. About the MAP signal: I think I have to do a KOER test to see if the EEC will give me some errors? Or should this error come up after short idle and stored in the memory? Have I said that all sensors are new? Also TPS and MAP? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 14, 2023 Author Share Posted March 14, 2023 Ok, I will check the TPS. About the MAP signal: I think I have to do a KOER test to see if the EEC will give me some errors? Or should this error come up after short idle and stored in the memory? Have I said that all sensors are new? Also TPS and MAP? I have forgotten to ask: May my rich run maybe caused of the missing emission controls? I have removed everything...EGR and all solenoids...maybe, as I've asked before, I need to place some resistors on the regarding pins of the EEC to simulate these components... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 14, 2023 Author Share Posted March 14, 2023 I have forgotten to ask: May my rich run maybe caused of the missing emission controls? I have removed everything...EGR and all solenoids...maybe, as I've asked before, I need to place some resistors on the regarding pins of the EEC to simulate these components... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 14, 2023 Author Share Posted March 14, 2023 I have forgotten to ask: May my rich run maybe caused of the missing emission controls? I have removed everything...EGR and all solenoids...maybe, as I've asked before, I need to place some resistors on the regarding pins of the EEC to simulate these components... Hi again...asking Google brought me to this: I will try this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 14, 2023 Share Posted March 14, 2023 Hi again...asking Google brought me to this: I will try this.... with all emissions removed or disconnected it is very likely that the ecu is "taking roll call and no one is answering back" I am not sure which or if any are required at startup only but if the ecu registers egr as open it will read as a vacuum leak. it may be very necessary for you to fill in the blanks. when opting to delete any item I will usually have them all plugged into the harness and make alterations one at a time testing the results each time. your case may be a good teaching example of "only change one thing at a time" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dionden Posted March 15, 2023 Share Posted March 15, 2023 with all emissions removed or disconnected it is very likely that the ecu is "taking roll call and no one is answering back" I am not sure which or if any are required at startup only but if the ecu registers egr as open it will read as a vacuum leak. it may be very necessary for you to fill in the blanks. when opting to delete any item I will usually have them all plugged into the harness and make alterations one at a time testing the results each time. your case may be a good teaching example of "only change one thing at a time" Very good point Matt I wouldn't have attempted to do such a build without a proven article. Sometimes we forget the simple "basic rules" of automotive principles and dive into the electronics. On another note I was at a shop sitting in the waiting room. A customer approached the service counter to book in their car to be fixed. They disclosed all their info and before they left they made it a point to say that they googled the problem and they knew what was wrong. The service writer immediately said " why don't you get Google to fix it then"! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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