85lebaront2 Posted March 9, 2023 Share Posted March 9, 2023 Hi Bill, Ok that means one of the black going to ignition key, the other one to GND. O2-signal to #29 and the white cable also to GND. As I don't have a canister purge solenoid, but routed out this pin from the ECU, I thought about to switch a relay with it, that deactivates the heater, cause as I have read in the book, the CANP pin will be switched, when the engine is warm...so if the heater plus will be connected to a relay NC pin, it will be switched off, when engine is warm and CANP pin will ground the coil of the relay...what do you think? The only O2 sensor heaters I have seen that tie the heater ground side to the computer are the OBD-II systems and I believe it is more of a monitor than an actual regulator. All of the non OBD-II sensors I have seen, including my wideband I use for tuning Darth, have a fixed heater supply and the other side is grounded. Obviously, keeping the heater on doesn't effect it's life enough to matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 9, 2023 Author Share Posted March 9, 2023 The only O2 sensor heaters I have seen that tie the heater ground side to the computer are the OBD-II systems and I believe it is more of a monitor than an actual regulator. All of the non OBD-II sensors I have seen, including my wideband I use for tuning Darth, have a fixed heater supply and the other side is grounded. Obviously, keeping the heater on doesn't effect it's life enough to matter. Ok, so you mean I should only connect both black cable for the heater and the signal cable to the ecu. So the white cable stays unconnected. FYI: I wanted to ground the white cable to the same ground point like the heater ground...not to the HEGO GND pin on the ECU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 9, 2023 Share Posted March 9, 2023 Ok, so you mean I should only connect both black cable for the heater and the signal cable to the ecu. So the white cable stays unconnected. FYI: I wanted to ground the white cable to the same ground point like the heater ground...not to the HEGO GND pin on the ECU It is strange how Ford did their HEGO systems when they first went to them. Diagrams for 1989 show a black power ground from the heater, but the HEGO shell being used for signal ground. Chrysler went through the same thing, only they went from 1 to 3 wires, Signal, Heater power and combined ground. I was told when building my Lebaron convertible, to use the 4 wire O2 sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 9, 2023 Author Share Posted March 9, 2023 It is strange how Ford did their HEGO systems when they first went to them. Diagrams for 1989 show a black power ground from the heater, but the HEGO shell being used for signal ground. Chrysler went through the same thing, only they went from 1 to 3 wires, Signal, Heater power and combined ground. I was told when building my Lebaron convertible, to use the 4 wire O2 sensor. Ok...that's interesting...so what's the difference between three and 4 wires? I have bought a four-wired one from bosch that rockauto.com recommended for 1989 Bronco... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 9, 2023 Share Posted March 9, 2023 Ok...that's interesting...so what's the difference between three and 4 wires? I have bought a four-wired one from bosch that rockauto.com recommended for 1989 Bronco... On the 4 wire there are both a power and signal ground, 3 wire, the signal ground was through the shell of the HEGO. The system I am using on my Lebaron is originally for a 1987 Dodge Daytona with the Turbo II intercooled system. The HEGO had 3 wires, signal, and 2 heater wires, signal ground was through the casing and exhaust elbow to the engine. In 1989 Chrysler went to a 4 wire by adding a signal ground or return circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 11, 2023 Author Share Posted March 11, 2023 On the 4 wire there are both a power and signal ground, 3 wire, the signal ground was through the shell of the HEGO. The system I am using on my Lebaron is originally for a 1987 Dodge Daytona with the Turbo II intercooled system. The HEGO had 3 wires, signal, and 2 heater wires, signal ground was through the casing and exhaust elbow to the engine. In 1989 Chrysler went to a 4 wire by adding a signal ground or return circuit. Hi together! Today seems to be a good day... So I have to adjust the timing, cause it runs only short without pushing the gas pedal... But it still runs rich in the beginning, but as the ignition works not very well and also my spark plugs a black of soot, it can't run very well... But I still get error code 95...so, what could the problem here? Something miss-wired? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 11, 2023 Share Posted March 11, 2023 Hi together! Today seems to be a good day... So I have to adjust the timing, cause it runs only short without pushing the gas pedal... But it still runs rich in the beginning, but as the ignition works not very well and also my spark plugs a black of soot, it can't run very well... But I still get error code 95...so, what could the problem here? Something miss-wired? The LED's show what I expected - each bank firing separately. Glad it is finally coming together. As for the black on the plugs, perhaps it needs to learn? I'm not up on EEC-IV and what all it learns about, but EEC-V does learn. The 95 error code is saying the ECU isn't seeing that the fuel pump is running. Right? Didn't Bill say you'd work that out later? Do you have the the T/LG wire to pin 22? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 11, 2023 Author Share Posted March 11, 2023 The LED's show what I expected - each bank firing separately. Glad it is finally coming together. As for the black on the plugs, perhaps it needs to learn? I'm not up on EEC-IV and what all it learns about, but EEC-V does learn. The 95 error code is saying the ECU isn't seeing that the fuel pump is running. Right? Didn't Bill say you'd work that out later? Do you have the the T/LG wire to pin 22? Yes, and what I've hoped for after re-wiring... The plugs are black from the last time it runs much too rich. So I will change it tomorrow against new ones, original from motorcraft. I currently use ones from bosch with a very fine electrode...not perfect in my opinion...so I also have to change the oil. I still have break-in oil inside...currently smelling like gasoline cause of the last rich runs... Yes, I thought now is later... Yes, as I don't have any colors anymore...but I have wired everything like on the schematic. I also hear the fuel pump start to run when turning the key...so this seems to work so far... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 11, 2023 Share Posted March 11, 2023 Yes, and what I've hoped for after re-wiring... The plugs are black from the last time it runs much too rich. So I will change it tomorrow against new ones, original from motorcraft. I currently use ones from bosch with a very fine electrode...not perfect in my opinion...so I also have to change the oil. I still have break-in oil inside...currently smelling like gasoline cause of the last rich runs... Yes, I thought now is later... Yes, as I don't have any colors anymore...but I have wired everything like on the schematic. I also hear the fuel pump start to run when turning the key...so this seems to work so far... Bosch plugs in EFI Ford engines, not a good combination, particularly the platinum ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted March 11, 2023 Author Share Posted March 11, 2023 Bosch plugs in EFI Ford engines, not a good combination, particularly the platinum ones. Hi Bill, Yes, that's what I thought...I've used these for the first time... Bosch Now I use this type: Motorcraft But...can you tell me something about the trouble code 95? Tomorrow I will set the correct timing for the ignition... And do you also know what's to do to deactivate the trouble codes for the egr and the other emissions control codes? Thanks very much...like the last 100 times... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts