84 F-150 300i6 3 speed OD 2.47 rears 2WD

[Gary Lewis]

But they're still in a frame that they don't fit. So when I scroll down the page, I only see the first sheet of the TSBs. Then I have to point inside the frame & scroll again. But if the bottom of your frame is off my screen (which will vary for everyone, depending on their monitor settings & screen size), I still can't see the whole TSB sheet without scrolling back & forth, in both the frame & the web page. It would be better to just have the whole TSB (however many sheets it has) visible on the web page so there's only 1 scroll bar needed: the web page scroll bar. IDK if that's possible the way you're set up here, but it just seems the "normal" way to display anything (especially a text document, or the image of text) on a web page.

I'm not saying you HAVE to change anything - just giving you my perspective. It works the way it is right now - the information IS available, which is already an improvement for everyone over it NOT being available. So thanks, either way.

Dawn. Marblehead! I think I finally understood what you are saying. So see if it is now what you are looking for: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/82-25-16s-upshift-indicator-light.html

FYI, when I tell Microsoft or Google to give me the embed code for a document, which I then put on the web page, the code includes width and height numbers - in pixels. I've learned that I can tell them to make the width = 100% and that works for whatever device is being used. And, I've learned that a height of 1050 pixels is about right for an 11" page. So what I usually do is set it up that way so that you see a page and can scroll - within the document.

But what you are asking for, I think, is to scroll on the page and not w/in the document. Or, to put it another way, to have the whole of the document laid out on the page so you only scroll the page, not the document. Right?

If so, I think I've done that. However, that may only be reasonable for documents of only a few pages. That's because I have to do the math and then do trial and error to get it right. For instance, 3 x 1050 is 3150, but that wasn't quite enough on this document, so I had to make it 3190 pixels to get rid of the scroll bar in the document.

But if we like it this way then I can try to figure out exactly how many pixels an 11" page takes and get pretty close on the first try on most documents. But on things like the Body Builder's book, one part of which is 56 pages long, I'm not sure that'll work.

Anyway, lets see how this works and how we like it before extrapolating to everything.

[Steve83]

...have the whole of the document laid out on the page so you only scroll the page, not the document. Right?

Exactly. The way it is today is much more intuitive & natural IMO. For scanned docs, it seems (to someone who doesn't know better) that you could just add the pixel heights of each scanned page to get the total frame height.

[Gary Lewis]

...have the whole of the document laid out on the page so you only scroll the page, not the document. Right?

Exactly. The way it is today is much more intuitive & natural IMO. For scanned docs, it seems (to someone who doesn't know better) that you could just add the pixel heights of each scanned page to get the total frame height.

It would be easy to add the pixels - if they told me what they are. Unfortunately, every document comes up at 476 pixels for width, and 288 pixels for height. But the full document is ~1050 pixels high, so I don't know why they always give me "288".

Anyway, glad you like it and I'll plan to do that in future. And, may clean up some of the others as well.

[844rd]

I got the dash patch from Ron (reamer). I took a piece of trim to sherwin Williams and they mixed the color, not perfect but close enough.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I got the dash patch from Ron (reamer). I took a piece of trim to sherwin Williams and they mixed the color, not perfect but close enough.

Looks good!

[grumpin]

I got the dash patch from Ron (reamer). I took a piece of trim to sherwin Williams and they mixed the color, not perfect but close enough.

Nice! Thanks for showing that!

[844rd]

A few more things done:

In checking the air cleaner diverted for warm/cold air I found that the diagram was leaking not allowing it to close. I found one on eBay and didn't notice until I stuck it in, that the wire that hooks to the flapper was shorter than mine. Luckily I was able to bend the wire hook without breaking it and now the system works well. Looking online I was amazed at the many different ways Ford had these things set up. Mine seems to be the more simple kind. Vacuum from the manifold tree to the little round temperature switch on top of the air cleaner, from there straight to the snorkel where there is another inline round thing just before the vacuum motor. I see many others will have another something on the side or underneath the air cleaner but mine only has a place for the little filter for the pcv system.

I also made a heat box for the warm air riser out of a coffee can, its kinda rough but it works.

[Gary Lewis]

A few more things done:

In checking the air cleaner diverted for warm/cold air I found that the diagram was leaking not allowing it to close. I found one on eBay and didn't notice until I stuck it in, that the wire that hooks to the flapper was shorter than mine. Luckily I was able to bend the wire hook without breaking it and now the system works well. Looking online I was amazed at the many different ways Ford had these things set up. Mine seems to be the more simple kind. Vacuum from the manifold tree to the little round temperature switch on top of the air cleaner, from there straight to the snorkel where there is another inline round thing just before the vacuum motor. I see many others will have another something on the side or underneath the air cleaner but mine only has a place for the little filter for the pcv system.

I also made a heat box for the warm air riser out of a coffee can, its kinda rough but it works.

Well done! The coffee can is going to work nicely.

As for the link, I've been able to get the link out of one vacuum motor and use it on another. But your solution should work equally well.

[844rd]

A few more things done:

In checking the air cleaner diverted for warm/cold air I found that the diagram was leaking not allowing it to close. I found one on eBay and didn't notice until I stuck it in, that the wire that hooks to the flapper was shorter than mine. Luckily I was able to bend the wire hook without breaking it and now the system works well. Looking online I was amazed at the many different ways Ford had these things set up. Mine seems to be the more simple kind. Vacuum from the manifold tree to the little round temperature switch on top of the air cleaner, from there straight to the snorkel where there is another inline round thing just before the vacuum motor. I see many others will have another something on the side or underneath the air cleaner but mine only has a place for the little filter for the pcv system.

I also made a heat box for the warm air riser out of a coffee can, its kinda rough but it works.

Oh I just remembered the third thing, I installed an under the hood light from LMC. It has a gravity switch so when the hood is closed it turns off. Lights up nicely with just the standard bulb.

[Gary Lewis]

Oh I just remembered the third thing, I installed an under the hood light from LMC. It has a gravity switch so when the hood is closed it turns off. Lights up nicely with just the standard bulb.

Looks good, Kevin. But do you watch it to see that it goes out when you close the hood? Check the ground to see that there's no light? It always worries me.