ReneH Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 i believe those senders have size 10 /32 threads per inch So...the oilpressure sensor has a metric M5 and the water temperature some conical threat...no way to get a nut on it...4mm in diameter at the top...I will use another connector to plug it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 EGOG is Oxygen sensor signal ground. Your original 1986 EEC had it, the orange wire to pin #49. On the 1985/86 systems it was connected to the rear right side intake bolt as it had a stud on it. Using a heated sensor, there is still a signal ground but it is part of the O2 sensor wiring. Ok...now I'm a bit confused... It seems that all ignition key cables are hot all times...maybe I have done an error somewhere, but I don't know where... If I check the connection between the downside big post (goes to the starter motor) and the smaller silver one that should go to ignition switch start signal...there is a connection... All this cable except the green-red one, seems to be on battery plus...is this correct? What's about this one on the driver's side? In my understanding as follows: Yellow-green = battery plus Red-blue = to starter solenoid (ignition switch start signal) White-blue and white-rose = ignition run Black-green = GND Green-white and red-yellow = I don't know. Red-white = water gauge White-red = oil pressure gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 Ok...now I'm a bit confused... It seems that all ignition key cables are hot all times...maybe I have done an error somewhere, but I don't know where... If I check the connection between the downside big post (goes to the starter motor) and the smaller silver one that should go to ignition switch start signal...there is a connection... All this cable except the green-red one, seems to be on battery plus...is this correct? What's about this one on the driver's side? In my understanding as follows: Yellow-green = battery plus Red-blue = to starter solenoid (ignition switch start signal) White-blue and white-rose = ignition run Black-green = GND Green-white and red-yellow = I don't know. Red-white = water gauge White-red = oil pressure gauge I really shouldn't be jumping in here as Bill has been doing a superb job answering your questions. But he may be busy on this Saturday and I'll try to answer. But I don't remember what your setup is and you don't have a signature to tell me if you have EFI, a 3G alternator, or what. So I may be way off base. That relay has two small terminals. One is to pull the relay in, and the other is connected to the large output lug and is used to provide full battery voltage to the ignition on some trucks. And yes, all but the red/light blue one goes to the battery terminal of the relay, and that one goes to the small terminal to pull the relay in. And you want to use the schematic below for these wires: Yellow-green = battery plus That is from the ammeter and goes to the Y/LG in C610 Red-blue = to starter solenoid (ignition switch start signal) Yes White-blue and white-rose = ignition run W/LB goes to R in C321 going to the ignition but I don't see a W/Rose. Black-green = GND Green-white and red-yellow = I don't know. Don't see green/white but could red/yellow be red/orange? Red-white = water gauge Yes White-red = oil pressure gauge Yes  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 I really shouldn't be jumping in here as Bill has been doing a superb job answering your questions. But he may be busy on this Saturday and I'll try to answer. But I don't remember what your setup is and you don't have a signature to tell me if you have EFI, a 3G alternator, or what. So I may be way off base. That relay has two small terminals. One is to pull the relay in, and the other is connected to the large output lug and is used to provide full battery voltage to the ignition on some trucks. And yes, all but the red/light blue one goes to the battery terminal of the relay, and that one goes to the small terminal to pull the relay in. And you want to use the schematic below for these wires: Yellow-green = battery plus That is from the ammeter and goes to the Y/LG in C610 Red-blue = to starter solenoid (ignition switch start signal) Yes White-blue and white-rose = ignition run W/LB goes to R in C321 going to the ignition but I don't see a W/Rose. Black-green = GND Green-white and red-yellow = I don't know. Don't see green/white but could red/yellow be red/orange? Red-white = water gauge Yes White-red = oil pressure gauge Yes Hi Gary, No problem. I have had a signature...don't know why is isn't there anymore... My setup is: EFI and 3G alternator. About the starter relay: The original pin only fits to the silver small pin. The copper one is too small. But as I've said, the silver one is connected to the output to the starter motor. As I haven't changed there anything and the car has started before with this setup, it may be normal. And yes, all but the red/light blue one goes to the battery terminal of the relay I meant the image below the text. There is no red/light blue cable at this connector. I see...my images and questions were a bit confusing...I will do some new in a few minutes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 I really shouldn't be jumping in here as Bill has been doing a superb job answering your questions. But he may be busy on this Saturday and I'll try to answer. But I don't remember what your setup is and you don't have a signature to tell me if you have EFI, a 3G alternator, or what. So I may be way off base. That relay has two small terminals. One is to pull the relay in, and the other is connected to the large output lug and is used to provide full battery voltage to the ignition on some trucks. And yes, all but the red/light blue one goes to the battery terminal of the relay, and that one goes to the small terminal to pull the relay in. And you want to use the schematic below for these wires: Yellow-green = battery plus That is from the ammeter and goes to the Y/LG in C610 Red-blue = to starter solenoid (ignition switch start signal) Yes White-blue and white-rose = ignition run W/LB goes to R in C321 going to the ignition but I don't see a W/Rose. Black-green = GND Green-white and red-yellow = I don't know. Don't see green/white but could red/yellow be red/orange? Red-white = water gauge Yes White-red = oil pressure gauge Yes OK, so the few minutes are over now... I will now form my questions into a more understandable way. But first my problem: I have a connection between battery plus and igniotion run and also ignition start...as far as i know. My problem is, that I'm not 100% sure what cables are coming/going directly from/to the Ignition switch. My therory: If I connect a multimeter with a continuity tester between the battery connector and any ignition run cable, there will be no connection until I turn the ignition to run. Same test with ignition start cable...only connection if I turn and hold the key. Passenger Side: The next images shows the cable I'm not 100% sure, if I have connected them right: Upon: I have connected the red and the yellow/green together to one fuse. Upon: This green/red cable I haven't connected. Upon: This small copper post wasn't connected before in my harness. Driver's side Upon: This is what I have seen as white/rose Upon: This cable is and was not in use. Originally it goes inside a connector, but not out annymore. So, I hope you can tell me where these cables are going to...Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 Hi Gary, No problem. I have had a signature...don't know why is isn't there anymore... My setup is: EFI and 3G alternator. About the starter relay: The original pin only fits to the silver small pin. The copper one is too small. But as I've said, the silver one is connected to the output to the starter motor. As I haven't changed there anything and the car has started before with this setup, it may be normal. And yes, all but the red/light blue one goes to the battery terminal of the relay I meant the image below the text. There is no red/light blue cable at this connector. I see...my images and questions were a bit confusing...I will do some new in a few minutes... Sorry Rene' Saturday is Laundry day, and I don't always get on-line early. If you are using the 3G alternator, the recommendation is to either have the ammeter redone as a voltmeter or just eliminate it and use a separate voltmeter. The ammeter on these trucks was based on using a 65 amp alternator and the shunt is a calibrated low resistance to give a charge indication. A charge indicator light will do that. First, let me add a disclaimer, I do not know what the engineers at Ford were smoking when the wiring on these trucks was being designed, but my 1977 F150 had a plug-in harness for the engine and also another for the front end wiring. The Bullnose trucks have a continuous harness that literally runs from the right headlight/battery area, through the firewall, across the dash, then back out through the firewall and ending at the left headlight. As a result something like the starter signal comes out on the left side, goes down under the floor to the transmission neutral safety switch, back up, in through the firewall, dash and out the other side to the starter relay, and changes color on the way. It should end up as a Red with blue stripe going to the starter relay. The large 4 wire plug appears to be the alternator harness and all will have battery voltage except the green/red as it is the "tickler" or charge light wire used to (a) start the alternator charging and (b) provide an indication if it isn't. Each section of the EVTM has a location portion at the end of it with the connector and component locations called out. I can send you the complete 1986 EVTM in pdf form if it will help you as it is mine and I scanned it for Gary so it could be on the site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 Sorry Rene' Saturday is Laundry day, and I don't always get on-line early. If you are using the 3G alternator, the recommendation is to either have the ammeter redone as a voltmeter or just eliminate it and use a separate voltmeter. The ammeter on these trucks was based on using a 65 amp alternator and the shunt is a calibrated low resistance to give a charge indication. A charge indicator light will do that. First, let me add a disclaimer, I do not know what the engineers at Ford were smoking when the wiring on these trucks was being designed, but my 1977 F150 had a plug-in harness for the engine and also another for the front end wiring. The Bullnose trucks have a continuous harness that literally runs from the right headlight/battery area, through the firewall, across the dash, then back out through the firewall and ending at the left headlight. As a result something like the starter signal comes out on the left side, goes down under the floor to the transmission neutral safety switch, back up, in through the firewall, dash and out the other side to the starter relay, and changes color on the way. It should end up as a Red with blue stripe going to the starter relay. The large 4 wire plug appears to be the alternator harness and all will have battery voltage except the green/red as it is the "tickler" or charge light wire used to (a) start the alternator charging and (b) provide an indication if it isn't. Each section of the EVTM has a location portion at the end of it with the connector and component locations called out. I can send you the complete 1986 EVTM in pdf form if it will help you as it is mine and I scanned it for Gary so it could be on the site. Hi Bill, Thanks again and no worries about the...I will not say late...delayed answer. Everybody has a life in th real world...and to me, you also have a big time delay...so no problem at all... I'm very thankful for the help of you and also Gary. I'm still learning...maybe it will be more easy to eliminate all original wires and replace them at one...but that's not possible in current as a lack of time... It will be nice e of you to send me the document as written. So I can maybe do better measurements, knowing where the cable ends. Maybe I only have some problems with understanding ohms laws sometimes...I'm good in understanding the advance laws by now 100% understanding the basics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 Hi Gary, No problem. I have had a signature...don't know why is isn't there anymore... My setup is: EFI and 3G alternator. About the starter relay: The original pin only fits to the silver small pin. The copper one is too small. But as I've said, the silver one is connected to the output to the starter motor. As I haven't changed there anything and the car has started before with this setup, it may be normal. And yes, all but the red/light blue one goes to the battery terminal of the relay I meant the image below the text. There is no red/light blue cable at this connector. I see...my images and questions were a bit confusing...I will do some new in a few minutes... I have 9 ohms between battery plus and the white/blue cable on the driver's side. Turning the ignition switch on results 0.0 ohms... Is this correct or do I have a lack of power somewhere? Maybe this is the origin of my problems... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted February 26, 2023 Share Posted February 26, 2023 Hi Bill, Thanks again and no worries about the...I will not say late...delayed answer. Everybody has a life in th real world...and to me, you also have a big time delay...so no problem at all... I'm very thankful for the help of you and also Gary. I'm still learning...maybe it will be more easy to eliminate all original wires and replace them at one...but that's not possible in current as a lack of time... It will be nice e of you to send me the document as written. So I can maybe do better measurements, knowing where the cable ends. Maybe I only have some problems with understanding ohms laws sometimes...I'm good in understanding the advance laws by now 100% understanding the basics... Rene', it was large enough it had to be sent as a Google drive link. You should be able to download it from there. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted February 26, 2023 Author Share Posted February 26, 2023 Rene', it was large enough it had to be sent as a Google drive link. You should be able to download it from there. Bill Hi Bill. I have seen it and will check it later on my computer. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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