ReneH Posted February 2, 2023 Author Share Posted February 2, 2023 Ok. Then I will order it. Thanks for the offer, but I don't need a connector for it. I will add a better cable and route it to my distributor inside the airbox where formerly the heat exchanger of the air conditioning was installed. Inside this distributor box I also do the wiring of the injectors. Hi together, to get better progress, I have started to work also under the week in the evening for some hours... I started to remove the unnecessary components and setup the supply for the ECU harness. I will use 5 AWG from the alternator to the 120A fuse and finally to the battery. What's about the vacuum lines that will stay unused after removing the solenoid block? There comes a red line from the big vacuum buffer and also a black one. The black one goes directly to the solenoid block. Is this big buffer necessary without having the whole EGR things? As far as I know the nearby small round thing is also a buffer... I also plan to remove this vacuum connector, if this is possible. While working with the most components I'll also replace the most sheet metal screws by threaded rivets. I don't like this sheet metal screws... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 2, 2023 Share Posted February 2, 2023 Hi together, to get better progress, I have started to work also under the week in the evening for some hours... I started to remove the unnecessary components and setup the supply for the ECU harness. I will use 5 AWG from the alternator to the 120A fuse and finally to the battery. What's about the vacuum lines that will stay unused after removing the solenoid block? There comes a red line from the big vacuum buffer and also a black one. The black one goes directly to the solenoid block. Is this big buffer necessary without having the whole EGR things? As far as I know the nearby small round thing is also a buffer... I also plan to remove this vacuum connector, if this is possible. While working with the most components I'll also replace the most sheet metal screws by threaded rivets. I don't like this sheet metal screws... Rene - I hesitate to jump in as you and Bill have been getting things done, but thought I'd ask a question or two. First, you don't have any emissions testing? Removing the vacuum lines to the TAB and TAD systems will probably cause the emissions to go out of spec. And, the ECU may start throwing codes. Have you and Bill talked through this? If you have and it is all good then you can remove the vacuum lines as well as the vacuum "buffer", which we'd call a "reservoir" - assuming that buffer only serves the EGR and/or the TAB/TAD system. The other reservoir is probably the one for the HVAC system and you need it. As for the threaded rivets, which we call "nutserts", I like them if they are properly installed. But do you use them in plastic? I've not tried that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted February 2, 2023 Author Share Posted February 2, 2023 Rene - I hesitate to jump in as you and Bill have been getting things done, but thought I'd ask a question or two. First, you don't have any emissions testing? Removing the vacuum lines to the TAB and TAD systems will probably cause the emissions to go out of spec. And, the ECU may start throwing codes. Have you and Bill talked through this? If you have and it is all good then you can remove the vacuum lines as well as the vacuum "buffer", which we'd call a "reservoir" - assuming that buffer only serves the EGR and/or the TAB/TAD system. The other reservoir is probably the one for the HVAC system and you need it. As for the threaded rivets, which we call "nutserts", I like them if they are properly installed. But do you use them in plastic? I've not tried that. Hi Gary, emissions are no problem, cause I have registered the car as oldtimer. Here in Germany you have a limit of 10 percent CO-emissions if the car is "historic". The ecu registers only that the EGR is no present. There is a specific resistance to add instead of the valve to get this error code off, as I have read in the past. Ok...nutserts...totally unknown at Google translator. But good to know. No, I have inserted them into metal...but plastic should work also. But in case of the inner fenders I would stay using screws, washers and nuts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 2, 2023 Share Posted February 2, 2023 Hi Gary, emissions are no problem, cause I have registered the car as oldtimer. Here in Germany you have a limit of 10 percent CO-emissions if the car is "historic". The ecu registers only that the EGR is no present. There is a specific resistance to add instead of the valve to get this error code off, as I have read in the past. Ok...nutserts...totally unknown at Google translator. But good to know. No, I have inserted them into metal...but plastic should work also. But in case of the inner fenders I would stay using screws, washers and nuts... Ok, glad you can go "oldtimer". In that case, and since you can put a resistor on to fool the ECU, then you should be able to remove all of that stuff. However, by turning off EGR you really should re-curve the distributor. The issue is that the EGR system admits an inert gas into the mix and that slows the spread of the flame front in the ignition process. So they had to add a lot of ignition advance when the EGR valve was open. And since that was at times of high vacuum they did it via the vacuum advance. What you'll probably find is that when you run as much initial advance as you want to get good performance you'll have pinging or knock at part throttle/high vacuum. If that's the case then you need to dial back the vacuum advance unit. We have instructions from Crane Cams on how to do that on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition. Then go to the tab below for Crane Cams Instructions. As for the nutserts, I agree that bolts, washers, and nuts are preferred in plastic like the inner fenders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 2, 2023 Share Posted February 2, 2023 Ok, glad you can go "oldtimer". In that case, and since you can put a resistor on to fool the ECU, then you should be able to remove all of that stuff. However, by turning off EGR you really should re-curve the distributor. The issue is that the EGR system admits an inert gas into the mix and that slows the spread of the flame front in the ignition process. So they had to add a lot of ignition advance when the EGR valve was open. And since that was at times of high vacuum they did it via the vacuum advance. What you'll probably find is that when you run as much initial advance as you want to get good performance you'll have pinging or knock at part throttle/high vacuum. If that's the case then you need to dial back the vacuum advance unit. We have instructions from Crane Cams on how to do that on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition. Then go to the tab below for Crane Cams Instructions. As for the nutserts, I agree that bolts, washers, and nuts are preferred in plastic like the inner fenders. Oh wait! Yours is EFI. So you don't have vacuum advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted February 3, 2023 Author Share Posted February 3, 2023 Oh wait! Yours is EFI. So you don't have vacuum advance. Yes, that's right...EFI... But I have had a sound like whistling coming from my throttle as the engine runs first. I've got it better by adjusting the opening of the throttle... This was one of the first things that has shown me that there is something wrong. There is a post from me at fullsizebronco.com about this...here it is: maybe a resistor is necessary... Do you know the needed value? As talking about fullsizebronco.com, here are some links how everything has started... first post second post Bill seems to be offline. For some days.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 3, 2023 Share Posted February 3, 2023 Yes, that's right...EFI... But I have had a sound like whistling coming from my throttle as the engine runs first. I've got it better by adjusting the opening of the throttle... This was one of the first things that has shown me that there is something wrong. There is a post from me at fullsizebronco.com about this...here it is: maybe a resistor is necessary... Do you know the needed value? As talking about fullsizebronco.com, here are some links how everything has started... first post second post Bill seems to be offline. For some days.... I don't know about the sound you are hearing. Maybe Bill does? I'll tag him. And I'm not sure what I'm supposed to see at FSB. I did read quite a ways down, but didn't see anything specific. However, you do know that we do have several members of this forum in Germany, as shown on the map. Perhaps you could get them together for a meet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted February 3, 2023 Author Share Posted February 3, 2023 I don't know about the sound you are hearing. Maybe Bill does? I'll tag him. And I'm not sure what I'm supposed to see at FSB. I did read quite a ways down, but didn't see anything specific. However, you do know that we do have several members of this forum in Germany, as shown on the map. Perhaps you could get them together for a meet? Gary, maybe if the Problems are continuing... First I'll do the wiring, then we'll see what's happening. I have linked the post on FSB only for those who are interested...nothing specific. About the sound coming from the throttles, I have talked was right after the first start of my stroker. So the last runs there wasn't any curious whistling. Maybe because I have adjusted the throttles... I only come up with this, cause you have written about a similar sounding sound (makes this any sense:nabble_anim_confused:) talking about the EGR and the ignition advance. But I only have not read correctly the content you have written... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 3, 2023 Share Posted February 3, 2023 Gary, maybe if the Problems are continuing... First I'll do the wiring, then we'll see what's happening. I have linked the post on FSB only for those who are interested...nothing specific. About the sound coming from the throttles, I have talked was right after the first start of my stroker. So the last runs there wasn't any curious whistling. Maybe because I have adjusted the throttles... I only come up with this, cause you have written about a similar sounding sound (makes this any sense:nabble_anim_confused:) talking about the EGR and the ignition advance. But I only have not read correctly the content you have written... Don't worry about what I wrote about EGR. Since you have EFI it wasn't correct. As for the sound, if you don't have it don't worry about it. Unless it comes back. Yes, do the wiring and see what happens. One step at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted February 4, 2023 Author Share Posted February 4, 2023 Don't worry about what I wrote about EGR. Since you have EFI it wasn't correct. As for the sound, if you don't have it don't worry about it. Unless it comes back. Yes, do the wiring and see what happens. One step at a time. Ok, it gets shapes... I have done the first wiring, starting at the power-supply side... I also have optimized the grounding of the alternator with a 5 AWG cable directly from the battery. And I have optimized/protected the connector: There I have brought ground to the driver's side with a 7 AWG cable. The +12V will follow next week according to an additional fuse block on the driver's side. I hope this is wired correctly. I have split the thick yellow cable, set on 20A fuse and the thin yellow together with the red one to 15A All solenoids and the reservoir of them is removed now...tomorrow I will continue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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