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Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions


ReneH

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I thought there was one, but apparently not. I will do a separate spreadsheet with them so it can be either attached to the pinouts or linked what ever works best.

Only the 5.0L engines used a knock sensor, no others had one and the 351 EEC will not see the input as it isn't configured for it.

If you do a separate sheet with the acronyms I can add it to the other spreadsheet as a tab. That plus the wire color/circuit chart should be a big help.

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I thought there was one, but apparently not. I will do a separate spreadsheet with them so it can be either attached to the pinouts or linked what ever works best.

Only the 5.0L engines used a knock sensor, no others had one and the 351 EEC will not see the input as it isn't configured for it.

Hi Bill.

OK, so I don't need it anymore. I have checked the spreadsheet of the 5.8l on the website again.

No changes to the version I have downloaded. So I have done a conversion-table for the 5.8l ECU

in my car.

As I don't know how to embett an Excel-File, I will send a photo after this post.

In my opinion, the 1989 ECU will work with my engine and sensors better than my original 302.

If there was no knock-sensor used in the other engines, there may no use or advantage for it.

So, I will remove the sensor as well as the four solenoids below the vacuum reservoir.

I have seen that Pin 30 and 38 are seems to be the same? Do I need to connect both or is it enough to connect the Neutral-drive-switch to Pin 38 (Circuit 199)? Pin 30 has the same description with "NDS / MLP", but with different circuits. In case of Pin 30: 481*/912.

The list with the acronyms will be very helpful for me.

 

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Hi Bill.

OK, so I don't need it anymore. I have checked the spreadsheet of the 5.8l on the website again.

No changes to the version I have downloaded. So I have done a conversion-table for the 5.8l ECU

in my car.

As I don't know how to embett an Excel-File, I will send a photo after this post.

In my opinion, the 1989 ECU will work with my engine and sensors better than my original 302.

If there was no knock-sensor used in the other engines, there may no use or advantage for it.

So, I will remove the sensor as well as the four solenoids below the vacuum reservoir.

I have seen that Pin 30 and 38 are seems to be the same? Do I need to connect both or is it enough to connect the Neutral-drive-switch to Pin 38 (Circuit 199)? Pin 30 has the same description with "NDS / MLP", but with different circuits. In case of Pin 30: 481*/912.

The list with the acronyms will be very helpful for me.

Here it is.

20230128_222512.jpg.0cf0539091da1c73a00712420dbbce07.jpg

Green color means: power cable

Blue: shielded cable for ignition signal.

Rest: 25 wire cable into my cable distributor inside the engine bay.

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Rene - Thanks to Bill the acronyms are now in the pinout spreadsheet on a new tab.

I have seen it. Thanks very much for this, Bill. I will update my list from above.

I will ask a UPS agency about the price if I let pick-up the connectors from you.

Can you give me at least your city, state and zip code? You can send it to rh@silence-lights.de

I also can send a UPS label to you, if it is easier for you...

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I have seen it. Thanks very much for this, Bill. I will update my list from above.

I will ask a UPS agency about the price if I let pick-up the connectors from you.

Can you give me at least your city, state and zip code? You can send it to rh@silence-lights.de

I also can send a UPS label to you, if it is easier for you...

Ok. Here is my pin-out:

20230129_202748.jpg.39d5e84c83a21e6f99f6078cd72707c3.jpg

So, I think this should work. I don't have a canister valve, but I have enough cable to connect it. Maybe I can use this signal for another purpose.

So, what's about the HEGO? Do I need a heated one? Or does the passive one give out the same signal?

The other pins are clear to me, as far as I can judge this at this time. I will analyze the wiring harness and compare it to the schematic and the pin-out list. Maybe I will have further questions...

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Ok. Here is my pin-out:

So, I think this should work. I don't have a canister valve, but I have enough cable to connect it. Maybe I can use this signal for another purpose.

So, what's about the HEGO? Do I need a heated one? Or does the passive one give out the same signal?

The other pins are clear to me, as far as I can judge this at this time. I will analyze the wiring harness and compare it to the schematic and the pin-out list. Maybe I will have further questions...

Rene' the reason for the heated one is faster warm up time. On the 1985-86 models it was in the rear of the right side exhaust manifold. If you have it down in the exhaust pipe or down in a set of headers, you need a heated sensor. Ford uses a Bosch narrow band sensor, which is something else you should be able to find fairly easily. Heater on the pre OBD-II vehicles was a straight 12V from the backup lamp fuse (#5) it is a Purple/Orange wire on 1989 trucks. The other side is grounded as is one side of the actual sensor.

 

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Rene' the reason for the heated one is faster warm up time. On the 1985-86 models it was in the rear of the right side exhaust manifold. If you have it down in the exhaust pipe or down in a set of headers, you need a heated sensor. Ford uses a Bosch narrow band sensor, which is something else you should be able to find fairly easily. Heater on the pre OBD-II vehicles was a straight 12V from the backup lamp fuse (#5) it is a Purple/Orange wire on 1989 trucks. The other side is grounded as is one side of the actual sensor.

Hi Bill,

as re-constructing my exhaust, I have placed the threat for the O2-Sensor in the downpipe on the passenger-side. The cheapest way to get the sensor for me is still rockauto.com.

rockauto

Is this the correct one?

Maybe I'll be able to send it to my address in the USA that I have send to you and save shipping cost. I'll check if they are offering a combined shipping from different sources...

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Hi Bill,

as re-constructing my exhaust, I have placed the threat for the O2-Sensor in the downpipe on the passenger-side. The cheapest way to get the sensor for me is still rockauto.com.

rockauto

Is this the correct one?

Maybe I'll be able to send it to my address in the USA that I have send to you and save shipping cost. I'll check if they are offering a combined shipping from different sources...

That should work just fine. Now that adds a connector I need to find for you, the mating one for the O2 sensor.

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That should work just fine. Now that adds a connector I need to find for you, the mating one for the O2 sensor.

Ok. Then I will order it.

Thanks for the offer, but I don't need a connector for it. I will add a better cable and route it to my distributor inside the airbox where formerly the heat exchanger of the air conditioning was installed. Inside this distributor box I also do the wiring of the injectors.

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