85lebaront2 Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 There is a company making a new Bullnose "complete" harness, but holy smokes it's expensive... https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/classic-update-kit-1980-86-ford-truck-bronco That doesn't seem to include the engine harness, so wouldn't be a lot of help on the EFI issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted January 24, 2023 Author Share Posted January 24, 2023 There is a company making a new Bullnose "complete" harness, but holy smokes it's expensive... https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/classic-update-kit-1980-86-ford-truck-bronco Ok, thanks for this link. But every harness made for automotive use I have ever seen was junk. Only single isolated wires with bad quality isolation materials. That's the reason I do wiring at all my cars on my own. It's a lot of work, but it's worth it. I also eliminate all connectors, if possible, cause they are the next weak part in the electrical system. I also set higher wire gauges for the power lines to the distributor points I build. And the last important thing I do is to route ground to every endpoint within the cable. If the device gets ground from its own case, I connect the case also directly. Here are some photos of my 1986 CJ7 wiring: And this is the tiny cable I will use for Broncos ECU connection inside the engine bay: PIP, SPOUT and IGN GND will get their own, shield cable. Also power lines will be routed within an extra cable directly from the battery. Fusible links will replaced by automotive fuses in a centralized, watertight box... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 Ok, thanks for this link. But every harness made for automotive use I have ever seen was junk. Only single isolated wires with bad quality isolation materials. That's the reason I do wiring at all my cars on my own. It's a lot of work, but it's worth it. I also eliminate all connectors, if possible, cause they are the next weak part in the electrical system. I also set higher wire gauges for the power lines to the distributor points I build. And the last important thing I do is to route ground to every endpoint within the cable. If the device gets ground from its own case, I connect the case also directly. Here are some photos of my 1986 CJ7 wiring: And this is the tiny cable I will use for Broncos ECU connection inside the engine bay: PIP, SPOUT and IGN GND will get their own, shield cable. Also power lines will be routed within an extra cable directly from the battery. Fusible links will replaced by automotive fuses in a centralized, watertight box... Rene, I agree with you. I helped a friend doing a restomod 1955 Dodge pickup, he kept everything pretty much Chrysler except front suspension and rear axle. He bought a Painless wiring kit and steering column, great if you are doing a Chevy, not so good on the Dodge. I completely rewired my 1986 F350, using later Ford wiring and extending the frame portion as mine is a crew cab and the rear harness is 35" or roughly 20% longer. Underhood, I used a 1996 Power Distribution Center eliminating the fusible links. I don't mind connectors as long as they are weatherproof and definitely prefer them to working on something with continuous harnesses requiring each component to be individually disconnected. I have done the same on my 1986 Chrysler Lebaron, updated a PDC and inside fuse panel to a newer style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted January 24, 2023 Author Share Posted January 24, 2023 Rene, I agree with you. I helped a friend doing a restomod 1955 Dodge pickup, he kept everything pretty much Chrysler except front suspension and rear axle. He bought a Painless wiring kit and steering column, great if you are doing a Chevy, not so good on the Dodge. I completely rewired my 1986 F350, using later Ford wiring and extending the frame portion as mine is a crew cab and the rear harness is 35" or roughly 20% longer. Underhood, I used a 1996 Power Distribution Center eliminating the fusible links. I don't mind connectors as long as they are weatherproof and definitely prefer them to working on something with continuous harnesses requiring each component to be individually disconnected. I have done the same on my 1986 Chrysler Lebaron, updated a PDC and inside fuse panel to a newer style. Yes, that's the only way to get it long lasting. Today I have bought the connector for the ECU, of which you have had sent the link to me. I also have ordered some power Schottky-Diodes and a 50W power resistor with 22kOhms for the ignition distributor. My solution instead of using connectors are my distributor boxes. In most cases you have much bigger problems, if you have to remove a cable. So I my case I may have some more work to remove a bit longer cable, not split by a connector. On the other hand I have no contact resistance and no possibility for water to enter...every seal has it's end. Another thing is that replacing a cable is very easy, cause all are covered by industrial norms and don't have any spooky connectors that maybe are hard to get after some decades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted January 26, 2023 Author Share Posted January 26, 2023 Yes, that's the only way to get it long lasting. Today I have bought the connector for the ECU, of which you have had sent the link to me. I also have ordered some power Schottky-Diodes and a 50W power resistor with 22kOhms for the ignition distributor. My solution instead of using connectors are my distributor boxes. In most cases you have much bigger problems, if you have to remove a cable. So I my case I may have some more work to remove a bit longer cable, not split by a connector. On the other hand I have no contact resistance and no possibility for water to enter...every seal has it's end. Another thing is that replacing a cable is very easy, cause all are covered by industrial norms and don't have any spooky connectors that maybe are hard to get after some decades. Ok, I'll start on Saturday. Now I still have the problem that I can't get out the old ECU. I have removed the bracket near the connector, but it seem that the unit is fixed on another position upside...does somebody hava a hint for me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26, 2023 Share Posted January 26, 2023 Ok, I'll start on Saturday. Now I still have the problem that I can't get out the old ECU. I have removed the bracket near the connector, but it seem that the unit is fixed on another position upside...does somebody hava a hint for me? The bracket should look like these, and the ECU is held in by the arm at the top that just squeezes the ECU, and the tab at the lower right that locks it in. The tab is held with one screw and when it comes out the ECU should be able to slide straight down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted January 28, 2023 Author Share Posted January 28, 2023 The bracket should look like these, and the ECU is held in by the arm at the top that just squeezes the ECU, and the tab at the lower right that locks it in. The tab is held with one screw and when it comes out the ECU should be able to slide straight down. I've got it out...so anyone knows what year this is? My car is built December 1985... The new one from 1989 for 351W, I have bought looks as follows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted January 28, 2023 Author Share Posted January 28, 2023 Rene, here is where the pinouts for all Ford EEC-III, EEC-IV and EEC-V for our trucks (EEC-V is on there as Gary and I both have 460 (7.5L) engines converted from carbureted the MAF/SEFI (mass air flow/sequential electronic fuel injection): https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/electronic-engine-control-eec.html Go there, then on the pinouts tab (link should take you to Electronic Engine Control) the pinouts are an Excel spreadsheet, but if you want a copy you can print out, email me and I will send you the file. You need to look at the bottom tabs to be sure you are on EEC-IV. This will give you the original pinouts from your 1986 and the ones for the 1989. BTW, EEV-V uses a 104 pin connector vs the 60 pin of the EEV-IV. OK, while checking the Pinout, I have got some Questions, cause there are some Pins and circuits different as it ssems: Only on 1989: Pin 03, Circuit 150: VSS+ Pin 06, Circuit 57: GND Pin 08, Circuit 276: FPM Pin 18, Circuit 223: IMS Pin 31, Circuit 101: CANP Pin 38, Circuit 199: NDS/MLP (C6/E4OD) Do I need one of these? Only on 1986: Pin 05, Circuit 361: VPWR Pin 23, Circuit 99: Knock Sensor Pin 24, Circuit 223: IMS I don't find the Knock Sensor Input on the 1989... Different assignment 1986/1989 Pin 16 1986: 57: GND 1989: 259: IGN. GND. Pin 17 1986: 201: STO 1989: 658: STO/CEL Pin 30 1986: 150: VSS+ 1989: 481/912: CPP or MLP The rest seems to fit...thanks for your help in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 28, 2023 Share Posted January 28, 2023 I've got it out...so anyone knows what year this is? My car is built December 1985... The new one from 1989 for 351W, I have bought looks as follows: The first one with ID # E6TF 12A650-X1A cross references to part # E6TZ 12A650-XA, and that is part of this calibration list: The 2nd one is ID # E9TF 12A650-AB1B and cross references to PN E9TZ 12A650-ABC, which is part of this list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted January 28, 2023 Author Share Posted January 28, 2023 The first one with ID # E6TF 12A650-X1A cross references to part # E6TZ 12A650-XA, and that is part of this calibration list: The 2nd one is ID # E9TF 12A650-AB1B and cross references to PN E9TZ 12A650-ABC, which is part of this list. OK Gary, thanks. So 1986 and 1989 are correct. I have compared the right ones. After checking my available number of cable, I will get no Problem with the amount. I will use a shielded cable with three wires for Pins 16, 20, 36 and 56. One of them is the shield as its self. Another cable will used for Power: Pins 1, 40 and 60 (Maybe some other after checking the original harness later) The rest will set to a cable with 25 wires. So I will need three cable glands to get through the firewall. Oe of the cable gland is an EMC-Type which connects the shielding of the cable direcly with the firewall. So, better shielding isn't possible... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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