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Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions


ReneH

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I have 9 ohms between battery plus and the white/blue cable on the driver's side.

Turning the ignition switch on results 0.0 ohms...:nabble_anim_confused:

Is this correct or do I have a lack of power somewhere? Maybe this is the origin of my problems...:nabble_smiley_sad:

Ok...that's interesting...I have checked the coil of the EEC-relay...6 mega ohms...the fuel pump relay only has 56 ohms, what's in my opinion more correct...

Maybe this was the reason for the error I had...the relay may not have switched the power correctly...so the EEC won't get enough power...

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Ok...that's interesting...I have checked the coil of the EEC-relay...6 mega ohms...the fuel pump relay only has 56 ohms, what's in my opinion more correct...

Maybe this was the reason for the error I had...the relay may not have switched the power correctly...so the EEC won't get enough power...

I also still need the information if there is a straight oil dipstick available...my air filters are directly in the way...

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Hi together,

Would this one fit?

eBay

Thanks!

Rene' that looks like one for a front sump oil pan (car or truck through 1979) I also need to figure out your wiring question.

There is a US company named Lokar that makes custom dipstick assemblies for many engines. Not having a 302 truck engine to look at I don't remember where it goes, into the pan or side of the block. One possibility would be a van dipstick, they are usually quite long and come forward so they can be reached easily.

On your relays, if you are trying to use the original ones, they may just be bad. I would just stick with a Bosch cube relay and get a matching socket.

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Rene' that looks like one for a front sump oil pan (car or truck through 1979) I also need to figure out your wiring question.

There is a US company named Lokar that makes custom dipstick assemblies for many engines. Not having a 302 truck engine to look at I don't remember where it goes, into the pan or side of the block. One possibility would be a van dipstick, they are usually quite long and come forward so they can be reached easily.

On your relays, if you are trying to use the original ones, they may just be bad. I would just stick with a Bosch cube relay and get a matching socket.

Hi Bill,

thanks for the answers. Today I have made a test with battery voltage...everything seems to be OK with my wiring. I will see more the coming days.

The only thing I haven't found in the document you've send to me is the red cable Coming from the battery...I also have a yellow/light green cable instead of a only yellow cable coming from the battery side.

But to be sure, I will measure with battery voltage to find out the correct cable.

About the dipstick: I will send a photo of my setup the the pipes of the new cold air intake...so if all sticks fitting the 302 are giving a correct reading, I only need a short straight one of an mustang or something else. I will find a way to fix it.

About the relays: do you think it's possible that a bad EEC relay can cause an error like mine that all injectors are firing together two times a turn?

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Hi Bill,

thanks for the answers. Today I have made a test with battery voltage...everything seems to be OK with my wiring. I will see more the coming days.

The only thing I haven't found in the document you've send to me is the red cable Coming from the battery...I also have a yellow/light green cable instead of a only yellow cable coming from the battery side.

But to be sure, I will measure with battery voltage to find out the correct cable.

About the dipstick: I will send a photo of my setup the the pipes of the new cold air intake...so if all sticks fitting the 302 are giving a correct reading, I only need a short straight one of an mustang or something else. I will find a way to fix it.

About the relays: do you think it's possible that a bad EEC relay can cause an error like mine that all injectors are firing together two times a turn?

Probably not, unless it is chattering when the injectors trigger.

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Probably not, unless it is chattering when the injectors trigger.

Hmm...ok...we'll see...

Here is my "construction"...not fixed and not in the correct height, yet...

20230301_075829.jpg.6f63be43e495ffb69d6a625bd8fa1ea1.jpg

20230301_075843.jpg.5c2eb0137f1dd9d0accb2c6eae7720ed.jpg

3" pipes...so to say the same like the exhaust muffler and tailpipe...:nabble_smiley_happy:

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Nice hot air inlet system.

Hot air?:nabble_anim_confused:

The filter downwards is placed on the original inlet position and has a conical inlet...so I hope this one will provide cold air while driving...

I have tested the wiring with battery voltage applied...nothing short, no lightning coming out of the engine bay...:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

So today or tomorrow, I will run the KOEO test and if everything is OK, I will connect my LEDs to the injector output of the ECU, by hoping they will flash alternating during one distributor turn...:nabble_anim_claps:

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Hot air?:nabble_anim_confused:

The filter downwards is placed on the original inlet position and has a conical inlet...so I hope this one will provide cold air while driving...

I have tested the wiring with battery voltage applied...nothing short, no lightning coming out of the engine bay...:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

So today or tomorrow, I will run the KOEO test and if everything is OK, I will connect my LEDs to the injector output of the ECU, by hoping they will flash alternating during one distributor turn...:nabble_anim_claps:

Here is the radiator front side on my 1986 F350. Red lines are where I have the air dams from a 1993-96/7 truck (the HD models did not go into the new body until 1998) installed to keep the hot air from the radiator getting into the air inlet in traffic.

271b.thumb.jpg.52c65878972813c30d27eebe59272bef.jpg

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