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Re-wiring 1986 EFI Questions


ReneH

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Ok, it gets shapes...

I have done the first wiring, starting at the power-supply side...

I also have optimized the grounding of the alternator with a 5 AWG cable directly from the battery.

And I have optimized/protected the connector:

There I have brought ground to the driver's side with a 7 AWG cable.

The +12V will follow next week according to an additional fuse block on the driver's side.

I hope this is wired correctly. I have split the thick yellow cable, set on 20A fuse and the thin yellow together with the red one to 15A

All solenoids and the reservoir of them is removed now...tomorrow I will continue.

Excellent work, Rene! :nabble_anim_claps:

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Excellent work, Rene! :nabble_anim_claps:

the quality of your connections, routing and attention to detail looks very good. just keep following one circuit at a time. wiring is not complicated, yet it is a series of multiple circuits. if every load had an entirely independent circuit, then diagnosing would be so much simpler.

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the quality of your connections, routing and attention to detail looks very good. just keep following one circuit at a time. wiring is not complicated, yet it is a series of multiple circuits. if every load had an entirely independent circuit, then diagnosing would be so much simpler.

Thanks. That's what I do...:nabble_smiley_happy:

Here is today's progress:

20230205_103838.jpg.b4dbe7053526f6bedbb497a446a67478.jpg

20230205_103852.jpg.006a6eaa82ec662c40c9f68efd0ac3fd.jpg

20230205_111701.jpg.c0e62c549f744bc3c866ed8c6b3ba36d.jpg

20230205_113357.jpg.aa9e78b7d50e284d38a0c7be99c6eb30.jpg

20230205_124039.jpg.dc13fb59981cc4eea4764f55679c50ff.jpg

This is my EFI-connection box. I have integrated it in the airbox, cause I have removed the air conditioning system.

In this box I will collect all injectors and also the HEGO and the connection to the fuel pump.

Next, I will show my new ECU distributor box.

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Thanks. That's what I do...:nabble_smiley_happy:

Here is today's progress:

This is my EFI-connection box. I have integrated it in the airbox, cause I have removed the air conditioning system.

In this box I will collect all injectors and also the HEGO and the connection to the fuel pump.

Next, I will show my new ECU distributor box.

Now I see what you are doing. Makes sense. :nabble_smiley_good:

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Now I see what you are doing. Makes sense. :nabble_smiley_good:

Hehe...I will keep this post up to date while working.

While studying the wiring, I ask myself why the HEGO don't have any switch, that deactivate the heating element, when it's already hot...so it seems to heat, all the time there is voltage on the ignition key circuit...:nabble_anim_confused:

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Thanks. That's what I do...:nabble_smiley_happy:

Here is today's progress:

This is my EFI-connection box. I have integrated it in the airbox, cause I have removed the air conditioning system.

In this box I will collect all injectors and also the HEGO and the connection to the fuel pump.

Next, I will show my new ECU distributor box.

and here in these pictures we have for your viewing pleasure. "rivnuts". nutserts in plastic!

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Hehe...I will keep this post up to date while working.

While studying the wiring, I ask myself why the HEGO don't have any switch, that deactivate the heating element, when it's already hot...so it seems to heat, all the time there is voltage on the ignition key circuit...:nabble_anim_confused:

The later model ones have the heater ground going back to the ECU, and I assume that the computer turns the heater off when up to temp. Here's the '96 California-specifications wiring diagram for a 460:

Big_Blues_HEGO_Wiring.thumb.jpg.7b70f40014f5bd6f585cc27bc1df39fc.jpg

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Hehe...I will keep this post up to date while working.

While studying the wiring, I ask myself why the HEGO don't have any switch, that deactivate the heating element, when it's already hot...so it seems to heat, all the time there is voltage on the ignition key circuit...:nabble_anim_confused:

Up until the OBD-II systems the O2 sensor heater was always on (My wideband monitor in the exhaust is a Bosch unit and it is always on). Both are powered from an ignition switched source.

I do know on the OBD-II systems, the computer monitors the current draw to be sure the heater is working. I currently have a wiring code on my wife's 2011 Ford Flex on the bank 2, sensor 1 that shows up after an extended drive and since the OBD-II systems do not auto-clear a code until a certain number of no code starts, it will stay there.

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Up until the OBD-II systems the O2 sensor heater was always on (My wideband monitor in the exhaust is a Bosch unit and it is always on). Both are powered from an ignition switched source.

I do know on the OBD-II systems, the computer monitors the current draw to be sure the heater is working. I currently have a wiring code on my wife's 2011 Ford Flex on the bank 2, sensor 1 that shows up after an extended drive and since the OBD-II systems do not auto-clear a code until a certain number of no code starts, it will stay there.

Good to know, Bill. Thanks for the explanation.

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Up until the OBD-II systems the O2 sensor heater was always on (My wideband monitor in the exhaust is a Bosch unit and it is always on). Both are powered from an ignition switched source.

I do know on the OBD-II systems, the computer monitors the current draw to be sure the heater is working. I currently have a wiring code on my wife's 2011 Ford Flex on the bank 2, sensor 1 that shows up after an extended drive and since the OBD-II systems do not auto-clear a code until a certain number of no code starts, it will stay there.

Thanks Bill. Ok So I will wire it directly to the ignition key like shown on the schematic.

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