RustedJunk84

I remember back when I first got my 86 from my dad that. When you would drive down the road all of a sudden it would shut off. Found out that the ignition switch would roll back just enough that it would shut off all you had to do is tap it forward and it would keep going. So the contacts in ignition wasn’t holding right or something I just remember I wrapped a big zip tie around tie to hold it together. That was like 15 years ago

Just drop in a Ford Motorsports 331 c.i. Stroker and let it eat! That thought had crossed my mind. I also was looking for a built 351. My truck is 2wd I wanted to switch to 4x4 was kinda looking for a package deal with sas done. Right now got so meany irons in the fire so it’s a slow process. One piece at a time when time allows it.

That is a good thought. 57 gal of fuel should keep her running as long as the lead foot stays out of it. Wish ford had a drop in motor like the LS more power and easy to work on. My little 302 gets 14mpg just don’t have enough to get out of its own way.

I didn’t know LMC sold a 38 gal tank. But I guess I have to admit I really didn’t look. I have been buying replacement panels from them. Thanks for the response.

Since the diverter valve (valve to switch between tanks) goes out and most people just stop using one of the tanks. Does anyone know of a bigger fuel tank that could get mounted in? I am working on fixing my truck up and thought about shaving one of the tank doors if I could put in a bigger tank. Maybe a bronoc tank or Chevy suburban tank. So right now it’s just a thought.

I don’t know if my idea is any better or not. But I kinda went at the cracks with a dremal tool and took out the real loose broken down foam. I then used gorilla glue to fill the crack. Gorilla glue foams up when it drys. I then shaved it down/sand it down to smooth it out. I also used some fiberglass bondo to smooth things out. The reason I did it this way is because I plan on covering it with upholstery. Another guy did almost the same way with bondo then low pressure sprayed primer over the dash to texture it. Then painted to match the truck.

So it's been a few weeks sorry I haven't got back to you for some time. So I told you I got some new battery cables. I did replace the positive cable and also the negative cable from the battery to the frame to the block. That so far seems to fix it. I have been taking a longer drive back to the house at night after work. One night even ran heater, wipers, and headlights for a little over 30 min. So far so good but I'm not putting all my stuff away yet. A messed up part was that my TPS started to go had a few days before I replaced the cables. So I was thinking I had a new symptom. Replaced the TPS and that fixed that problem. So far everything is running good again. Thanks again for all you guys help. Sometimes you just get frustrated and over look small stuff looking for a bigger problems.

This charging crap is killing me. I checked for voltage drop Tuesday morning when I got off work but the alternator wasn't failing at that time. I still ran the test came out with .02 from alternator case to negative batt post. I did the same test on the positive side but wasn't sure if I was getting the right reading. Wednesday morning I did the test again with same results but some times intermittently I was getting a 2.21 reading so I wasn't sure if I was doing the test right because I never got a constant. This time the alternator was failing. I did find that I got it to fail a few times if I just turned the heater on before start up. As I messed around under the hood I did notice that the black and orange wire that leads to the start solinoid was getting pretty warm almost hot on the side of the solinoid to the inline fuse link. I have noticed that before so I cut the link out replaced it with new fuse link soldered in. Haven't got it to fail again so I will keep my eye on it. I did go and buy some new battery ground cables and a new battery positive cable. Also bought some ground strap of body grounds. But as we know one thing at a time. Thanks again for the help keep you posted.

I will try that if I can get it to fail. Maybe on my way home in the morning.

That's essentially identical to my mother's '74 LTD wagon back in the early 80s. It was a nightmare. No shop she took it to could figure it out, and I had virtually no auto repair experience (or interest) at that time. One shop sold her a red battery cable because they told her the 2 black ones were the problem. After sitting on the side of the highway for an hour or so waiting for someone to stop & help, I started poking around & noticed that the (~3rd new) alternator was at the limit of its adjustment for belt tension. No one had replaced the (newish) belt, and it was too big. At low loads or low RPMs, it could keep the alt spinning enough to charge. But at highway speeds or high loads (A/C, lights, etc.), it would slip (without squealing) and the battery would discharge until there wasn't enough voltage for the ignition system to work. Check the belt tension. Regardless what else you find or do, I highly recommend swapping to the 3G. It's cheap, easy, and could prevent the truck from catching fire. Gary has some pages here that explain how. What brand, group size, and build date? How exactly was it tested? This type is the only one that Ford, most other automakers, and most battery mfrs. accept: https://supermotors.net/getfile/830812/thumbnail/mdxp300.jpg Until you list each one you checked, we can't confirm that you got "all" of them. How exactly did you check them? Pics of the truck & what you're working on would help us help you: http://www.supermotors.net/forums/thid-5972-how-do-i-post-pictures-sounds-and-or-videos That's risky. New parts are not necessarily good parts, and disturbing things unnecessarily on an antique vehicle can create new problems. BTW A starter solenoid is an integral part of the starter, and your truck wasn't built with that kind of starter. The thing on the inner fender near the battery is the starter RELAY. https://supermotors.net/getfile/285644/thumbnail/starterexploded.jpg Even more risky. How exactly did you replace them? With what? How did you choose the ones to replace? The EEC has nothing at all to do with the charging system. When it had no effect, did you put the original back? If that were the case, the fusible link would have burned through, and the alt. would never work. If the alt. comes on at all, there's nothing wrong with the fusible link. But all the heavy terminals in the charging system need to be clean & tight: https://supermotors.net/getfile/955475/thumbnail/26winchrelays.jpg What do the battery terminals look like? https://supermotors.net/getfile/723279/thumbnail/07done.jpg I have been thinking of upgrading the charge system but I was wanting to fix the problem before trying something new. I have put a new belt on it also I just forgot to mention it. As far as the grounds I have checked the ones I believe could be a problem. Such as battery ground cable, may just buy a new replacement one but I would believe the one on it is still good, it's a few years old. I've checked the groinds by the headlights thinking that they may have created a high resistance since it seams to fail when headlights are on. It hasn't really failed in the daylight. Also checked the grounds by the computer and in the cab area. I tried the solenoid because they are common fails in these trucks. Replaced with one that I already knew was a good solenoid. The battery was just the normal Auto Zone charge and check. Also had O'Reillys check it with their hand held. The part about fixing odds and end wires. As I went through tracing wires and looking for a short I would fix anything that looks as if it would fail. Such as wire casing being messed up or a corroded end or something of that nature. I have owned this truck for 17 years and it's been my daily for most of the time. It has never seen a repair shop. But this problem has got me stumped. Thanks for your help

All the normal grounds are on it. I may try to add some more to see if anything changes. Driving today seemed as if it had a surge to it like a bad ground. Thanks for the thoughts tho

I found the page on google.I have been watching for a while but Im a big bullnose fan. Just found another one that is extended cab and has a 460 in it. This site has a lot of good info in it thats why i came here for help.

Yeah I have the regulator mounted to the alternator. Yes I did replace both plugs soldered them in i have also checked to make sure I have not switched wires up when replacing them. The only thing that i haven't changed on that set of wiring is the inline fusible link. The way I understand it is that the link is just a smaller gauge wire. My thought is that i may have some broken strands of wire so the voltage maybe there but not the amperage. I don't know Im vary mechanical kind of person not electrical. My father has been trying to help with the electrical.

Im sorry if I cant get back to answer questions much but I will try my best to answer what I can when I can. So I have the 86 302EFI and for some reason I am having a intermittent charging problem. It seams if I drive during the day the alternator puts out enough power to charge. Acts like alternator is putting out required voltage (13.8-14.3). When I drive at night with a load such as headlights, heat, or wipers on it has a tendency to stop charging. It will kick in and out intermittently while driving. Sometimes you can drive a good distance before it will stop charging. When it does stop charging then it may kick back in but it may also take a while before it starts charging again. I have driven with just headlights on and the alternator still acted up. Today I drove with the headlights OFF and the wipers on intermittent and it stopped charging again. So as I drove through the rain today and I would turn the wipers on only when i couldn't see anymore. Seamed to stay charging. I fell as if i have a high resistance somewhere or that the amperage is to low. The alternator is the 2G with the regulator mounted on the alternator. I am not running anything big in the truck such as a sound system or off road lights. My phone charger is the only thing not factory. I have even had the cigerette/charger port discounnected and it still intermittently charged. I have: 1986 F150 302EFI 2wd auto Replaced alternator 3 times Had the battery tested good Checked all the battery grounds Replaced a new start solenoid because I had a new one sitting around. Replaced/soldered new plugs for the alternator and checked the wires. Traced the wires across the motor all looked good and replaced random wires that may have been messed up. Tried a different computer for fun since i had one sitting around. Traced wires back into the cab across the dash and under dash found no shorted wires. Pulled the fuse panel off the fire wall and checked connections. Checked all the fuses Replaced the alternator belt with a new one. Any help would be grateful I have been working on this for a month and a half now.Thank God I work close to home and live in town. Instagram: RustedJunk84

I drive a 86 F150 302efi 2wd. My grandpa bought it in 1989 when he passed away in 1995 my dad drove it. On valentines day my dad blew the motor up. My father and I put a new jasper motor in it togethef and it was my first ride. we painted the motor up and had a small fire burning the paint off. Great to work on it together. We got it running and I have been it daily ever since. This old bullnose has never seen a shop unless it was something I couldnt fix my self. Moving forward I would like to restore this old 86 Lariet XLT make it 4x4 and pass it down to my nephew. It would be great to have four generations in this old truck. Well thats the story and that is me. I have a love hate relationship with it, guess it is because of it being the only thing that even though it lets me down I fight for it each and every day.