Mekerek

They didn't have enough electronics for the robots to like bullnose trucks. Coincidentally that's also why some people go with these old trucks, is the lack of electronics. Why would a robot need to pay anyhow? Couldn't they just make the forum work instead? :)

Seems to have slowed down. Did people lose the thread or have you gotten everyone you expected?

I thought I would dig up this old thread, my label is horrible, barely readable, it looks like Marti might no longer be in business? Website is zonked. Any ideas of how to get a new one or good ways to possibly refurbish or clean the old one without removing ink? edit. ok. I didn't look for door sticker and see the other post that someone just made, but still Marti seems offline.

This is great news overall. I was worried I would have to lift the whole cab to reach it.

I got some side bars, they use the end of the body mount bolts to mount the front of them to. They have a coupler and screw onto the remaining tip left after the rubber ring. The end of the driver left side was covered with some kind of rubber coating, this is good as the whole underside is, however I think this one was a little tortured before doing so. The coupler can't quite get secure on the tip of the bolt. Does anyone know if this bolt can be replaced perhaps by pulling up the carpet of the cab and not having to lift the whole thing up. The rubber is in decent shape, I really just need to replace the actual bolt. Thoughts?

I knew I had seen it here .. that's why this forum is so great. Documentation -> HVAC -> Factory A/C Brackets - Gas V8s... there you go.

If I remember you are trying to cover the 1800 transfer cost and then monthly? Can you put up a post so people know what you are at?

Okay, I'll draw it up and then reach out via email for an address. The email function on the forum is spotty, so make sure to check your junk folders too. I did remember that there's a large black half moon bracket that you're also missing. There's a complete set on Ebay that also has some of the smaller support brackets you may also be missing. It might be a good option for you as it's not too expensive and you can always attempt to re-sell the individual parts to those in your current situation that only need a piece or two. I'll leave that choice up to you. https://www.ebay.com/itm/256482472562?itmmeta=01HZJYATZWTMGFBDW8W71YXB7K&hash=item3bb78bf272:g:c0oAAOSw~lNmHyY3&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8C0avJS7TgaiYIexraaCBxVVqlmZu319hZwmZyVXM3oIB08lFbb1XlplCVLkYN6Kuwob8vy%2BgkCqeZyqXeHwSPtfSCW1acGbMNXr%2F1BvuAF3lhoCWiGJEothxJ1miujrrbbNfg1heKoe2VGxGmhEIeflzZh2Uoos3upcMGDuNldoSBj2yC%2FVmwLjt7uPKeJweSIOsGOf86j4EoP59daGTvpDEpKvFAOEFrGGWvxToXUBXD0ldt9CAlob5SpMLYyetr08UhNCwy%2F5oFxMdF8dv%2B2vq3LQ5ZcevBEf9Ac5hFfXM%2FuGhaTmoq2BcBZHpMY3yQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4ywq978Yw I have the same truck engine and ac. I also have the Ford parts list and illustration. I can get both posted tomorrow for you to get what you need a or part numbers. Brent

The hesitation with Enthusiasts in the name.. we don't want to overlap/infringe on another forum for Ford Trucks. not in the URL but all over the logo and forum topic names.

Oh one thing that occurred to me. I was looking at upgrading my lights, because they are about worthless, even at night I have to get out to validate they are on, that's how dim they are. Anyhow, Daniel Stern has someone who makes harnesses for his light kits, you might contact him, and perhaps they could help with a harness that can be sold on a 'as needed' basis for your effort.

I will try the adjustments for the starting, thanks for the guidance. As for the alternator. Yes I can do wiring and heat shrinking. I also have used in many cases Solderstick for this (USA not knockoffs). I can run a wire if that's it. This is my instrument cluster (borrowed pic but accurate), I believe that is annmeter. I have seen updated instructions to add tachometer and have been considering that also. If I goto a volt meter, there isn't one that works in the existing cluster, so I would have to do something like below and just leave the cluster one unhooked. All told, if this isn't that hard, mostly my goal is to up the power and not burn my truck to the ground. So if 2g is doing precisely that (which is what I understood) and 3G can be done and not do that, looks like that is where I should go. I assume this means I don't care what it is currently and I would goto one of the 200amp (?) 3G and do some light wiring and a voltmeter on the column. I already have a hydraulic hauling booster for the brakes that's running a break line through the firewall I need to remove as it's not operational anymore and it's just an additional bleed/failure point, so if I wait on that, I might be able to use that to get through the firewall where it does and go up into the instruments. Yeah I can wait and if you like let me know I can try to follow what you come up with to make sure it's clear, I am technical (computers) but not a mechanic (physical) so might be a good test target and happy to do so.

I have a couple of questions for the knowledge here.. I have a very old, very crusty alternator right now, I think it's the original 60/70 amp that came in the car, no idea, can't find any markings on it so far but, it's not quite enough power. I have read the threads here and I am unsure of the upgrade path. Does it matter what it is right now? Should I just go to 2G at least (but seems a fire risk in the connector), if not 3G (but I don't want to replace anything in the wiring like the altmeter etc). Thoughts? The second question is the car is difficult to start, sometimes taking 2 or 3 tries, and then it will die the first time I put it in gear and don't just go. If I drive it for 5 or more minutes, it doesn't die, and it seems to start right up after that. Where should I start diagnosing? I am not sure if it's the carb or timing or something else. I just need to start somewhere and not sure where. Thanks.

Good advice. I didn't have the seal ring and I didn't plan on removing it honestly. I will probably have to change the oil again, because I have a leak somewhere (probably valve cover leaking too) so I am going to order one to have it on hand now.

I looked at the double sized back tank. It seems it takes up the space where the spare goes. So you won't have a spare but there didn't seem to be a need to fabricate anything. I found it on lmc truck.

I did find these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/380375298791?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=yW5L0-hQQty&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=NIH8sfXyTna&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY