Rham243

A cheap fuel gauge intended for carburetors is all you need. Mine cost under $10 Just disconnect the line to the carburetor and connect the gauge. Flip the switch and see what it reads. Unlike a stock system there's no safeties to bypass. Okay, i think i might have a fuel pressure gauge somewhere in my garage. I will look around and see if i can find it. Unfortunately I have to work today (from home) so I wont have time to pull the truck in the garage today. Will get back it to it tomorrow and see if i can find that gauge and a place to hook it up. Will report back then.

Great story, that's amazing. Okay im all about being safe, I occasionally let my kids ride with me around the block in this thing (wont be doing that till this is resolved). Just so I'm clear, our goal is to get rid of the toggle switch and connect the electric fuel pump back up to the oil pressure sender or the relay the way it should be originally right? Should i also ditch of the Holley red-top and replace the pumps in each tank or would it make any difference?

Okay thanks, let me know what you find. Do you think I'm going to have to redo this whole fuel system? Also, if I buy a fuel pressure tester, is there a easy place to plug it into the fuel system?

Okay thanks, let me know what you find. Do you think I'm going to have to redo this whole fuel system?

Here are some shots: Are these the relays? And I believe this is the oil pressure sender but i could be wrong:

Here is the vin info so it looks like this is the original powertrain

Here are some pictures, will check the VIN here shortly. The canister that is leaking, guess its a filter The Fuel Pump The previous owner wasn't sure if the front tank worked. i have not tested it yet and have just been using the rear.

Reading through some of the posts on here related to the "Hot Fuel Handling" system it is my understanding that these came from the factory with in-tank electric fuel pumps. Is that correct? My fuel pump is a holley red-top that sits outside the rear tank. Also, based on this info it sounds like the vapor separator regulates the fuel psi but could it still be too high or low because of this different pump? I think maybe it is too high because i had to really adjust the rear float on the new carburetor i installed as fuel was coming out the rear bowl vent.

Replaced all the plugs, still running rough although I was able to start it without pumping the gas so there is a little improvement and it didn't die when in park, idled okay, dies immediately when i put it in gear but that's what it was doing before. Have to get it rolling (just smash the gas when you switch it to Drive) then it seems to drive fine. Not sure if that's a separate issue. I think that maybe i have a fuel system issue that's causing the missfire/running rough. The previous owner installed a Holley Red-top fuel pump in it and there is a switch added to the dash that you have to turn on before you start it so the fuel pump is always running. I know that the red-top has a set psi so there is no need for a regulator but the pump itself looks old and the fuel lines are kinda a mess. There is also a very slight fuel leak from some sort of canister thing connected to fuel lines under the driver's door. Should i start a new thread?

Okay got it. Im going to go pick up a new set and just replace them all. Time to get gapping. Will post results once finished.

Okay Monday Update: I am getting back to working on this today. I pulled the distributor cap and turned the crank clockwise then back counterclockwise. The rotor turned instantly when turning back counterclockwise so there doesn't appear to be any timing chain slack as far as I can tell. I pulled all the plugs and took a few pics. Let me know what you think? Are these okay to put back in or should I get new ones?

Okay thanks all, really appreciate all your common sense help thus far. I went to a bullnose facebook group and wasnt getting anywhere. I'm going to take a break from this thing for Easter but I will get back to it on monday to try these suggestions and post my findings.

No, just bought it about 6 mo this ago. Odo says 80k but probably 180, interior is in great original shape so I dont think it's more than 180

I have not washed it, but then again i did just buy it in November so maybe some did? It was as dirty as it is now when i bought it. I checked the order and it appears to 15426378 so that is good (going off the wires and counterclockwise from the #1 position on the distributor). the driver side firing order is wired 5678 should i switch the 6 and the 7 then could this be the issue? Had to take off and wont be able to test this till tomorrow or Sunday.

They are dirty (along with everything else) cant tell whats arc staining or just oil spots. heres a pic;