Pete Whitstone

700 euro, or about $749 USD, I would find to be an acceptable price for a transmission being sold as a good working unit. A bit on the high side, perhaps. If the transmission is being sold as a rebuildable core (non-working or unknown condition), then that price would be very high. I see E4ODs in unknown condition typically being sold here (Texas, USA) for about $100-$300. But I don't really know what the German market for used automotive parts looks like, or what the prices should be. I can only tell you what I see here. But if it's the only one available, and you want it, it's kind of a sellers market.

I thought that Bill's post showed that changing the output shaft was not necessary, it's the same for 2wd as it is for 4wd. So you should not need to buy a shaft. The gas mileage (kilometerage?) will definitely be better, my engine turns about 1800 at 70mph I think. And I know how brutal fuel prices are over there. Driveshafts can be shortened or lengthened, I had my stock rear driveshaft shortened on mine for about $300 USD. Driveshaft shops are somewhat common here, I assume you have them there too. Some other things to be aware of with this swap: 1. You will need to lengthen your transfer case shift linkage because the transfer case will be sitting further back. 2. I don't know for sure that the C6 transfer case will bolt directly to the E4OD tailshaft extension. I think they are the same but I don't know. I used the transfer case that came with the E4OD (my truck was originally 2wd, I swapped in all the 4wd stuff from a donor truck). 3. I don't know how the wiring will work, being that your truck and EEC have a c6. The c6 is not an electronically controlled transmission and so would have none of the electronic control that the E4OD needs. I think you talked earlier about swapping to an EEC that had an E4OD behind it. You will either need to do that, or install a stand-alone transmission computer. One other thing you need to be aware of with E4OD's is that there are "early" (1989-1994) versions, and "late" versions (1995-up). They are mechanically identical, but the electronics in the solenoid pack are different, and the solenoid packs have slightly different plugs. This is because the early ones had diodes installed in the solenoid pack, and the later ones had them in the ECU. So you need to make sure your ECU is compatible with your solenoid pack. As far as I can tell, this truth table illustrates what is compatible: Solenoid pack ECU Compatible Early Early OK Late Late OK Early Late Ok because both have diodes so you are doubly protected Late Early No diodes anywhere so no good If you planned to replace the solenoid pack anyway (and you should) then you just need to make sure you get the right one.

I don't know how you can check an automatic transmission without actually mounting it to a vehicle and driving it. I have heard the torque converters that came with E4ODs are subject to ballooning, but I have no firsthand experience with that. I rebuilt my own E4OD, I talked about it on a build thread somewhere on here. It was not difficult, if you have ever built an engine you should do ok with this job. There is a very detailed set of youtube videos from a company called The Transmission Bench. The link is in that build thread for the first one (see below). I watched the entire series so that I would know what I was in for before I did it. There are some specialized tools you have to buy, but for all the tools that were needed was less than $100 USD. The transmission rebuild stuff starts around here. https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/The-Deuce-Build-Thread-tp106643p107653.html

I think they are referring to whether there is a hole in the housing to hold a vehicle speed sensor and/or a speedometer cable. The 9" rear end (which they quit making sometime in the 80's) did not have a provision for a VSS. The 8.8" that replaced it had a VSS. So the early housings have a hole for a VSS because they were mated with a 9". The later housings have no hole for a VSS because they were mated to an 8.8", where the VSS was mounted.

I don't know anything about mounting holes being different, an appropriate E4OD bolts directly to a small block (302/351) or a 4.9l (300 straight 6). I say "appropriate" because E4OD's do not have removable bell housings, and came in 4 different engine bolt patterns. So you have to make sure the one you buy is for a small block. Swapping to a different EEC might be full of unknown pitfalls, especially since your engine's displacement has been modified. Keeping your existing engine management computer and adding a separate transmission control computer might be the path of least resistance. As far as what is physically necessary, you might need a different transmission crossmember, and you will definitely need to have your driveshaft shortened. If you have 4wd then the transfer case and the side gas tank might want to occupy the same space, mine interfered. Although it was actually the electric motor on the transfer case, if yours is lever actuated you will probably be fine. But something to watch out for. The gear selector input to the E4OD is reversed from the C6. I got around this by mounting the selection lever on the transmission upside-down. You will need to create a hybrid shift rod at the transmission, with the E4OD side connecting to the E4OD and the C6 side connecting to the truck. You can definitely change the trans without having to remove the engine. Good luck!

Geat catch, thanks Pete. You were right on the money. Flipped it and no issues gettin' the bolts in the connecting links. I tried to install it the way it came off, so God only know what the 4 POs have done to the ole girl. Now to get the crossmember in and sway bar bolted up. Excellent! Glad it was something that simple.

It sure looks to me that your sway bar is upside down as compared to the pics that 85Lebaront2 posted. Look at how his curves up after the attachment point, and how yours curve down, almost touching the steering link. I could well be wrong, but that's what it seems like to me.

I didn't read all through this post, but I gather you are looking for commitments for contributions, I am definitely in. Let me know how and when.

You'll want to keep moisture away from the distributor area also. I haven't really found a good way to clean off that thickened goo mixture of engine oil and dirt. Scraping it is tedious. I would imagine that steam cleaning it off of there would work well, but I don't know who does that. Hot pressure washing after the engine degreaser would work, but most pressure washers just use hose water. I wonder if you could hook a pressure washer up to a hot water heater drain spigot... hmmm.

Just went out to take a picture of what's on my truck and I think I spotted it. I was expecting it to be higher up on the wheel well, somewhere near this thing. But I think it's this thing down here by the trans dipstick and the heater box, I see a nipple for a vacuum hose on the bottom of it. Am I correct, or is that something else? I've run out of vacuum lines so that's about got to be it... Thanks!

Hello all, I'm working on a '92 that I picked up dirt cheap, todays task was replacing all the emissions vacuum hose brittleness with silicon lines from Paragon Performance. They supply the correct lengths of all the colors you need, although they do substitute blue hose for the OEM pink. Anyhow, I got it all put back together but I can't find the location of one item, referred to on the Paragon diagram as the "Air Bypass Valve". This is the item with the blue hose (OEM pink). Any internet searching I have done for this part comes up with references to either the IAC or the Air Control Valve, found on a kind of crossover pipe just behind the motor on top of the transmission (yellow line). The underhood diagram show this. With the pink line going to it. I know this is a bullnose forum and not an aeronose forum, but I am wondering if the later bullnoses with FI had these pieces. Can anyone help me find the elusive "Air Bypass Valve"? Thanks!

No actual lever linkage on mine, the 94 (95? not sure which) donor vehicle has the motor on the back of the transfer case. I transplanted the switch into the cubby to the right of the column.

My truck was not born as a 4x4 either, so it's not a good example of an original truck. I've never heard of gas tank skid plates. The 94 donor vehicle I took the 4x4 stuff from did not have them. It did have a kind of a plastic cover on one end of the sidesaddle tank. Not sure if that was designed to be protection of some kind or not.

I have a 351w-based engine with an E4OD and a BW 1356 TC. Slip joint at the transmission, U joint at the 9 inch. Drive shaft is 33 3/8" center to center on the U joints.

Wheels/tires are sold, thanks.