BullnoseLuvr

Mark, What transmission, rear end gears, and tire size? What RPM were you running? That speed seems about right to me. I know my little 2wd Flareside will do 90, but it has very long legs with a 5spd and 3.08 gears. It's got a 4spd (T19 I think) with granny gear, I don't remember the axle ratios, tires are 215/75 15, and if I remember correctly it runs 3000 at 73mph. Mark

I got new tires on feets and took him out for a speed run. On flat ground he tops out at 85, according to Waze. I hit 90 on a short downhill. At full throttle top speed there was minor bucking and at normal highway speeds I get 11MPG. It's the two barrel 351 with feedback carb and all emissions controls in place and functioning except the Air pump. Is this typical performance? Thanks, Mark

Thanks. I'm having someone check. Were those the only ratios offered? Mark

Jim, Sorry I didn't get back sooner. I've been running my a$$ off since I posted. I don't know the ratios -- I might be able to find out before I bring it home and pour over it. I have no clue what the axles are worth but I'll do my research. You're talking front only or all including transmission? Thanks, Mark

I'm posting this notice here to bring attention to a post I just put up in the marketplace. I hope that's ok. Mark

I'm posting here assuming someone would be interested as these parts will fit in the bullnose trucks and you all are the people I know. If I should or would do better posting this to another forum someone let me know. This is the only Ford truck forum I'm on. I'm buying a complete '90 F350 4x4 460 automatic truck for the snow plow and front seat. Everything else has to go. It was used exclusively as a plow truck so it has only 28K miles. The owner tells me the original engine failed early so this long block has only 17k and it ran fine when it was parked three years ago. It is rusted all the way around halfway up to the beltline and though the truck is in one piece, the frame is broken. I have no room in my garage and driveway so if I get some interest I'll rent a garage long enough to part it out. I'm located in Northern New Jersey looking for local pickup. Thanks, Mark

Try unhooking the throttle kicker solenoid.

I made this swap and the buttons weren’t working. I disassembled the clock and cleaned the button contacts with deoxit contact cleaner — works like new.

But, but... The FMS says 50, not 150ft-lbs. Which did you do? I'm at 150 right now. Mark

Interesting. This is from SKF in the document linked at the bottom. This must be where Haynes got it. FTJ Tighten adjusting nut to 50 ft-lbs/68 Nm while rotating hub. Back off 45°. Align lock washer hole with pin on adjusting nut. Tighten locknut to 150 ft-lbs/203 Nm. Endplay should be .001-.006" http://estore.nordiques.com/uploads/nordiques/files/09-torquesskf.pdf Mark

No clue. I don't remember what I did yesterday much less 15 years ago. Typically I use the high temp stuff for discs. Can you get something that isn't any more? Anyway, this time I used Valvoline synthetic gray. I have on more than one occasion ignored a manual's advice when it's obviously wrong. I wonder why so many people on the other forum think the locknut torque should be so high? According to them it works fine. I'm worried that over torqueing the locknut could somehow increase the preload by pushing the bearing nut inward. Mark

And right there you see why I do not use aftermarket manuals. There are mistakes in the Ford manuals, but they are few and far between. However, there are many mistakes in the aftermarket manuals, and they can cause costly problems. Whelp! (And I don't mean puppies.) I had the Haynes in my hand so it was convenient and, I've found mistakes in the factory manual to my Mark III, my Saabs, and right here online in the manual to my truck, so I'm not convinced there are more mistakes in the aftermarket manuals. More interesting is that I found a raging firestorm of a thread on a Ford Truck forum about the torque value on the locknut. There's filthy language and bomb-throwing -- it's a lotta fun. The suggestions range from 80 to 220 ft. lbs. Factory says 50, Haynes says 150. Now I have no clue what's right. I put those bearings in the truck about 15 years ago when I rebuilt the front driveline and suspension and here weren't many miles on them so they shouldn't have gone bad. I can see that the races have run hot and the grease on the inside bearing was pitch black, though it was the outer that failed. It was really hard to break the locknut loose because, well, I used the Haynes when I did the job the first time. Mark

I drilled them out. They were finger tight in the hub but seized in the hub cap. The Haynes manual says tighten the bearing bolt to 50ft lbs and back off 45 degrees, and tighten the lock nut to 150ft lbs on the bearings. Done. Mark

I need to pull a locking hub off to replace a front wheel bearing and the Allen-head screws that hold the cap ring on the hub are stripped. Any tips on getting them out before I drill them? Mark

Got mind on eBay. It was used though. Mark