86 12 Brutus

I was pretty sure it would not. Going to look at it later this evening. I'll let ya'll know

Hi everybody. How is everybody doing? Its been a while since i checked in. So much going on these days. Brutus needs to go to the hospital, the c6 is slipping pretty bad and going to have it rebuilt. I found this truck on facebook marketplace. we are going to look at it hopefully today. Both Nick and I always wanted a truck like this. My question is this. It is a disel truck with an automatic. I have the 300I6 from my parts truck that I would want to put in there. Will it bolt up to the transmission?

I've noticed that the air blowing out from the discharge vents on the dash, has not been blowing as hard as it did before. So with the truck running and the ac on, i climbed underneath it and ran my hand along the bottom of the eveperator box and i felt ice cold air blowing out from just about everywhere underneith the evaperator box. Turns out that Brutus's gaskets have started to crack and leak air, go figure, there only since 1986. so i stuffed the gap around the evap box with roofing putty tape. ( i'm not sure if this is what its called, its that grey stuff used to seal metal roofs) this helped alot dashboard vents are blowing hard again, but then i started to think whats going to happen to the water that forms on the evep inside the box. i've looked through all the literature in the manual from ford, and on this forum and nothing is said about a condensation drain hole, or tube. so at the very bottom of the evap box i removed a little bit of the putty tape. water came gushing out and the ac had only been running for about 5 minutes. I'm afraid to think of what would havehappened if i hadn't done this. there is a hose that goes from the blower moter into the evap box which keeps the blower motor cool. i'd hate to think that a buildup of water could get sucked up into themotor itself or the resistor. so if you decide to seal your evap box, leave a little opening at the very bottom where it comes to a point, i know some cool air will come out but it will also blow out water. ill do some more research and try to figure out where the condensate drain should be. if anybody knows please give me a shout. im thinking of a drip hose with a u shape in it this hose may let water drain and the goosneck should keep the cold air from cominng out. i know thats how they do it in home hvac.

I'm guessing it must be a part of the brake booster. I cant find this thing anywhere

It is brake boost push rod gasket, it sits inside of the hole in the front of the brake booster around the push rod that pushes into the master cylinder.

Hey guys, I'm at a total loss here. There is this gasket that sits between the brake booster push rod and the master cylinder. I cannot find this thing anywhere. Does anybody have any idea, or even what this thing is called. I've looked everywhere

the only thing i know for sure is , when you start the engine, it totally floods out, fuel pumps running wide open and totally saturates the spark plugs

Hello everybody. I'm hoping ya'll can lead us in the right direction. We are working on a 93 f150 with a 5.0. Many many hands have been in this poor truck, and as a last ditch effort, he finally brought it to Nick and I to try to get this thing to run. So, as you can guess, with the many people who have had there hands in this truck, many things have gotten changed. It's original problem was a broken water pump bolt. that got fixed. He was told it needed new fuel tanks and fuel pumps. I have these here, and yes it did need fuel pumps, both are bad. To make a long story short and this is where i need help. Once we got the rear tank in, we were able to start the truck and it runs horrible, engine shaking like Charo's hips in the 70's, and backfireing. The engine is totally flooding out. we tried to get it started again to pull some codes, but now the spark plugs are so fouled, it wont start. We are going to get some more plugs to at least get this thing to run long enough to pull some codes. This i know, the fuel pumps are running wide open and i know that is not supposed to be that way, i believe is why they both burned up. This thing is loaded with sensors as you know. Where do i start?

do you have to bang them with a hammer to start them or just start turning the wrench?

makes sense

7 or 8 years ago, we blew a freeze plug on the cylinder head and replaced it with a Dorman rubber one. It blew out the other day. We were just going o replace it with another rubber one. ( we plan on pulling the engine in a few months and replace all the freeze plugs, gakets, seals, timing chain etc. On doing an internet search, I see Dorman also makes a copper one that you can put in with a wrench. I've only seen one mention of this in another forum where the guy says they work so well that he replaced all of his with these. I cant find any other info on them. Does anybody have any clue?

Very very nice job so far. very neat

The best and easiest way to do this is how i do it. If the bowls are dry, disconnect the coil to distributor wire, crank the engine for about 30 to 45 seconds, the bowls will fill.

Wow

That is what i'm thinking it was, you could hear the tick inside the carburetor