Phil-S

Hello friends, I moved back to SC for another 2 yrs and left my 1984 regular cab in Germany. I sold it to find a supercab with long bed here in the US. If anyone of you wants to sell his truck i am happy to take it over. I dont have any requirements regarding colours. BR, Philipp

Hello Gary, i am so overwhelmed by your support! Thank you so much for all your effort by putting all this together in such a short time! And i agree, i think you found the holy grail. This info may be it and it stemming from an official Ford data book is very helpul since it being a trustful data source for German agency. I only have three last questions to be solid for argumenting it against TÜV. 1. What determines that you choose the second big column (gross trailer weight 2000-5000lbs)? - Am i right that you picked that one? 2. What is the value in brackets in the "Maximum GCWR" lines / cells? At first i thought it is kg but that doesn`t do the math. 3. How do you then conclude that for my combination i get 5500lbs max trailer weight? By the way, we will be living again for two years in SC from this year August on so maybe there is a chance to meetup anytime. Either way, when living in the US again, i will search for a supercab then to fit my complete family. ;-) BR, Philipp

Dear bullnose team, i have a question which is discussed often but i have add-on questions which havent been answered as far as i can tell. Background info if of interest: --------------------------------------------- In Germany, you need to have official towing capacity (max. towable kilograms) in your title to be allowed to tow at all. So it`s not about what can i tow but also have documentation for it. (If you get pulled over by police with a trailer on your car but your title doesnt show anything about allowed towable weight you will get a fine). So i am now in the process on getting official Ford data translated and accredited by official German certification agency (TÜV) to get it updated into car title. ----------------------------------------------- I have a 1984 longbed single cab V8 302 with AOD, 3.55 axle ratio, 4900LB GVWR. Here is the problem: - TÜV doesnt accept „RV brochure“ (since it is „marketing media“) - They offered to use information out of the owners manual - Unfortunately, 1984 owner manual (i have it at home) doesnt show anything about GCVWR - Thanks to Gary i see info on 1985 and 1986 owners manual on GCVWR - But since i have no EFI they would not allow 1986 manual for reference. - Since 1985 is younger than mine they could argue that values taken out of this manual is not reflecting the truth. Main question So i was wondering whether there is 1983 or older info available which shows GCVWR for my car (1984 longbed single cab V8 302 with AOD, 3.55 axle ratio, 4900LB GCWR). (On Garys 1981 scan this is only for the F100.) I had my truck once on a scale which showed 1,8t unloaded. I need to get 2tons approved to tow. So i understand i need to have a GCVWR over (1800kg + 2000kg) = 8377lb GCWR. Add-on: 1. Can someone please tell where the axle ratio info / scan was taken out? https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/axle-ratios.html 2. In 1986 owners manual: how do i know which of the three lines i need to chose to know which GCWR is the right one Thanks a lot and best regards from Germany, Philipp

So i replaced it today. 😁 I was actually able to access the fixings from the top and the fuel lines from underneath. It all took a while due to limited access. Most time i spent on inserting the lever correctly but it runs again without spill. Thanks again

Awesome. Thank you so much!

I just wanted to give you an update about the starter swap. The replacement was quite easy. I had some issues with fastener accessibility and removal of the starter since i have non-factory headers installed. But it was worth it. i LOVE how it starts right up. Even after 3 trials or more.... Thanks for sharing this great idea!

Excellent! I look forward to meeting you. What do you do? Where will you work? Greenville, SC. For the German car company who doesnt build trucks. ;)

Planning on 2023, 2024 or so.Maybe i gonna be working then again in the states :)

Gary, you quite made it around Germany...to places i havent even seen. ;) Well, i would say i visited the ones which you do within your first US vacations. Florida, NYC, California, Vegas, New Orleans, Utah. Then quite a bit in the south (SC, NC, TN). Also Texas, New England, Hawaii, Oregon, Seattle, Chicago and Detroit. So what next? ;)

@nzcobra: thanks for the tips. Since it is supposed to be a pretty new one i hope this is not the issue. Grounds can be definitely a contributor in my case though. @Gary: nice shirt. I have about 10 shirts with your country on it ;)

Its so cool to have you guys. Thanks so much. Getting infos in Germany is so hard....

Thanks a lot guys. I will order that replacement starter and try out your other recommendations. I will keep you posted but it will take a while.

Thanks a lot for all your answers. 1. Thanks for the part numbers and links. This definitely helps me finding the correct one. I thought about getting this one since it ships pretty cheap to Germany Motorcraft Starter I guess i understood how to change the wiring between battery, relay and starter. 2. The + and - cables directly off of battery post I did replace last year. The one from relay to starter is the „old“ one or at least i havent replaced it within the last year. I dont know how the connections look at the starter itself. If swapping to a PMGR i would replace all of the wires anyhow. 3. I believe the engagement of the starter is not the issue. I can hear it working „hard“ trying to spin (its not a turning loose sound) Can it be that it is no turning fast enough because the starter wont get enough power? So when i had the issue this week at the gas station the starter turned, engine would crank but not start. Can it be something else as well (fuel pump etc)? What should i check? Overall, i believe i have some resistance issue around the solenoid. The sparks on the solenoid i see everytime (also on a cold start after a long rest) Also, last year after a 30min drive when i stopped and removed the key the starter turned on its own. (Burned bridge on the solenoid i guess, but strange why it would do it when i stopped the car and took the key after a drive) This was a „new“ autozone solenoid. Now i am using an original one (Feels and looks a lot more solid from a scrap (spender) car from that time.) I hope i am not confusing you guys too much. I am pretty new to working on cars on my own and also language is a barrier. Cheers

Hello my friends from all over the world, I need your help. Yesterday we had the first really warm day in Germany and i had to get some stuff from the hardware store. To not run out of gas (really dont trust my fuel indicator atm) I filled up gas after a 15min ride in the sun. And when trying to leave the gas station there it was again...my issue when i still had the truck in South Carolina ;) ... when turning the key the starter would turn but the engine not crank. Also when I got my battery jumped with another car it didnt help. After some tries the starter turned slower and slower. Even when the other car was hooked. I also could feel the solenoid being very hot. Since i generally see sparks flying on the solenoid when i turn the key i am of the opinion that i should get a PMGR starter. Since i have to get it shipped to Germany it would need to be the correct one. So i would be happy about any purchase recommendations for my 1984 F150 302 with Automatic Transmission. At the moment i am having a pretty new Carquest 3180S, which was installed last year in the US because the mechanic believed that this would fix my issue. Thanks in advance for your help. Again, if anybody makes it to Regensburg please be sure to stop by my place ;)