NZCOBRA

I'm not familiar with the big block in your truck , but obviously you need to get the sump off , remove the rear cap , and get a long punch , keep away from the crank surface and tap the seal around , you'll only get so far , then you'll need to get a hold of it with some pliers and drag it out , it's easier if you can loosen the other caps a little and move crank down a tad , but you have the trans on , they say the cometic viton seals are the best , watch out on the install you can shave the seal on the sharp edge , maybe a careful file on the edge , leave seal ¼ up and set cap seal the same opposite side , I just use oil on it , I've seen the moly stuff dry out , not good , also on some instructions I had once said no sealant on the ends , which I think is a good idea because if you put some silicon or something on the ends and it squeezes out then it interrupts the seal edge . Cheers mate .

For us guys overseas , and getting suspension and maintenance items, Rock auto is pretty good and they don't ask for an arm and a leg for Freight, as an example I got a front hub assembly for a 2x4 2007 ram and all up with Freight in NZD was $187 .

I just made them out of black nylon , but anything like that will work ,they just spread open when the screw goes in , never had any more trouble with it , when your fitting a BULB it can spark to earth and blow a fuse or damage your dash circuit board , battery disconnect could be better .cheers .

I changed from auto to manual many years ago and swapped in a manual assembly , I am sure there is a difference in the shaft and bush diameter manual being bigger . , fairly sure. Cheers hope this helps .

I forgot to add look towards the 5.0 fox mustang crowd they love their HP and should be plenty of crossover fuel line upgrades . copy and paste below just one example . Safely and securely connect your Mustang or Ford Lightning fuel lines with this Russell -6 AN Male x 1/4 SAE Quick-Disconnect Female Fitting!

Hi smitty , I havent done it either , but in the future i may have to upgrade my fuel pumps . If you want to go to dash 6 off the sender you may need to either find a adapter , Russel fittings have some ? , or sweat on,like easyflow, a fitting -6 male , onto the feed and return from the low pressure pump / sender . Cheers .

So most of you probably know already that most of the LEDs are polarity sensitive, but as there are so many different designs , just be carefully swapping your bulbs/lamps around to make them go . Turn key off each time some of those LEDS have a full circle alloy body and as you extract them you can short your Printed circuit board. Cheers.

I'm sure some relieving with a die grinder won't hurt a thing . Cheers .

Wheel spacers , depending on type can be screwed to the wheel , then longer than normal lug nuts should go right through with about ⅛ gap to hub flange , also should have a center spigot . Cheers .

I was hoping to paint or cover mine not sure how this will go now, did you use that special plastic primer stuff ? I have even thought that moulding some with fiberglass , could be an option ., I haven't done any work on my truck for a while, it's been reliable ! . cheers Vaughn.

Didnt see that , just thought id mention that , as some people have never come across it , also a lack of good earths is an issue , geared starters have pleanty of torque .

Another issue i had 10 years ago with a big block 428 starter was virtualy the same , and in the end it was the bushes in the starter motor and when they get worn the armature gets pulled to one side and that drags it down , and this is called poleing , i run a geared starter as they are alot easier on the electrical system , the Ford Rat trap starters need really good power supply ..Cheers Vaughn.

Thanks for all that , i will have to go down to the bullnose wreckers ! .

I have a rear tank , so where did ford originally put the spare ? just on the deck ? Cheers Vaughn.

Ya, my brother in law and I were talking about that tailshaft bushing. It looks like it would be fairly easy to replace, and I know they are available as I've seen them. I think I might leave that for a winter project. Just adding some trivia , The driveshaft on my F150 ex AOD , did not need to be altered, for the installation of a Tremec TR3550 same as TR4250 same spline, same length , speedo cable straight in , no mods to crossmember. No bad vibes Cheers.