PetesPonies

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/588125492216529/

Foam holds moisture, the worst thing you could do.

If no gauges are working, it screams instrument regulator. Having an adjustable one would sure add some effectiveness to the readings, especially gas gauge as mentioned.

Resistors in series create voltage drops. The drop is proportional to the resistors resistance in reference to the entire resistance of the circuit. If you had 12V and a 10ohm resistor and the load was also 10 ohms, you would find 6V at the resistor and 6V at the load. Most of the time, gauges work around 5-6V. They are feed through an IVR, Instrument Voltage Regulator.

Here's the pics of the CV swap. I was told Backyard Customs makes the boxes that you weld in.

if you watched the race yesterday, you know Front Line Motorsports won the race. So the guy I bought from, his team won. Pretty cool. Anyway, I made contact today and he agreed to send a few pics. So when he does, I'll post them.

I have contact with the guy now. I can ask for some pics of the CV swap if that would help.

so sorry, no pics. But I went to buy some parts yesterday in NC, close to Charlotte. The father of the seller was my point of contact, as the seller is in Daytona. He works with the Front Row Motorsports Nascar Team. In the shop, they had an '85 Bullnose, no body on it. Frame was done and ready for a body. Had a 300, with an AOD added as well as a 9" rear with 3.7s. The front end had been changed to a Crown Vic , AC was added and a 4V was going to be used. Really was nice looking. It had been the Grandfathers truck, so a family truck and was making it a nice cruiser. They also had a '64 that had a 408 Windsor in it, and a . . .Dodge Diplomat . . front end swap. Huh???? LOL Truck was beautiful.

Thats what I want to do to my flareside but I am in a rush now cause I havent driven my truck in 3 years now and I want to get the drivetrain finished. Figured Id do the engine, transmission axle and springs then later on I may put my truck down before I get the paint and body work done and pull the engine/transmission out as well as just lift the cab and pull the bed and refinish the frame. Use Master Series Silver and either urethane black topcoat or Master Series AG111. A step up from POR which I would never use.

No you're not getting inside by taking it apart. But could maybe hook a spring. One I am asking about is a newer style which has a cable inside handle. So getting a new one isn't cheap like the older ones were/are. Same basic design of the latch though, operates the same.

Yes, very easily. There's a small diameter spring inside that has to be there to retract the jaws,

Any offers? All three or a single.

No they push back easily. It's not stuck. When you push the release, one snaps back , the other just sits there. YOu take your finger and push, it easily goes back.

Has anyone found a solution for a door latch that seems to have a broken soring inside? You have two jaws that lock around the striker. When the latch is released, one jaw spring back, one is lazy :) Seems a spring much have broken, but very hard to see inside.

How long have you had yours? I think I would be upset if they pitted in 5 years. I found a decent set of originals. Mine are marked, not peeling. I'm doing a paint on the truck and don't want to put back the worn looking originals. So looking around . pretty cheap were the repros . . but I thought decent originals would last longer. We shall see.