Jacob84

I’ve had a lot of people help me out on my truck and I’d like to pass it on! I hope you enjoyed my neck of the woods. I love living here. The lakes, mountains, endless dirt roads. I’ve passed by that cafe many times, never been in, I hope it was good! There’s a place real close there called “the shack”, the best burger around up there. Did y’all keep track of your adventure on the forum? Maybe some places I’d like to check out or know!

Good afternoon gentlemen, I hate that I haven’t been able to be as active as I want to on the forum. But I did want to share this with y’all first. I have an E4OD that came behind a 351w in an f150 4x4, regular cab long bed. It needs a home. The price for a used E4OD varies a lot so I figure I could start in the middle at $500 but price is negotiable. The trans will need a new solenoid pack. It has 150k miles on it. The transmission was having no issues that I know of. The pan looked okay when I pulled it off. The truck had a tree fall on it and that was the reason for parking it. Here’s the kicker, I still have the truck and all the associated parts for the E4OD. If one of you guys is looking to do an E4OD conversion for your Ford I will include the crossmember, driveshafts, brackets, shift cable, cooler lines, cooler, whatever wiring you might need, trans tunnel floor pan, and I’ll even cut out the section of floor you need to clear the trans/transfer case. I even have the transfer case if someone wants to offer extra for it but I have the plan to put it in my truck. I think that makes it well worth the $500 as you don’t have to roll around in the dirt at a salvage yard for it or buy a whole parts truck. I can’t afford to ship unless you can. I live in Hot Springs, Arkansas if someone wants to make the trip. I’d be willing to travel a short distance. I’d love to help one of you guys out if you’re looking to do something like this.

X2 and Merry Christmas! When we swap in a used unit at work we do the seals if needed and gasket if it’s not reusable. I believe the late AODEs should have a reusable one, might say on the pan. I wouldn’t bother flushing the trans. A used trans cooler? Flush that or replace with new. Replace the filter. I’d also bust the old filter open and see what’s inside (cover it with a rag and hit it with a hammer, it will be messy). That pan can look great but the filter can tell a different story. Look for metal shavings and chunks of clutch material. I don’t think you’ll find any but it’ll give you some peace of mind. A little is okay, a lot is not. Hope it goes well!

I believe I found an adapter for around $600 if I remember correctly. And a controller would be pushing the $800 to $1,000 mark. If I had to buy everything to do the swap it wouldn’t be worth it, or at least a 5.0 or 3.5 ecoboost would need to be attached to it. But having a transmission shop at my disposal and knowing a local machinist it would be a fun project if I had the time. I saw on a different forum where one guy put a ZF 8 speed behind an LS in a Chevelle and built his own little controller for it. Thought it would be real neat to do something like that with a 6R80

I'm doing about the same thing with my 81, swapping in an E4OD with a standalone controller. I'm not familiar with the 4R70W and how dis-similar it is to the C6, but there are a lot of hidden gotchas with this type of swap, I'm discovering. Not that I wouldn't do it again, but project scope can quickly creep on this kind of thing. Some things to consider: - You will most likely need your driveshaft shortened - The standalone controller may need inputs you don't currently have, such as TPS and VSS - You might need to fabricate shift linkage - Exhaust interference? - New trans cooler lines if the ports on the new trans don't match the C6 You can control costs if you do the rebuild yourself. I was on the fence about it, since whatever the heck goes on in a slushbox is pure voodoo. But I watched some rebuild videos, found some really good ones, and dove in. The jury's still out on how well I did, since I'm still working through things like in the list above. But my point is, once I got in there, it was not that intimidating. I've rebuilt motors before, but never a trans, and I didn't find the trans rebuild that much more difficult than a motor rebuild. Something to consider. X2 There’s a lot of things you won’t see coming that will add cost to the swap. That’s exactly why I have an E4OD sitting on the shop bench at home and not in my truck. I can’t decide if the swap would be worth the headaches and the extra money. Basically waiting for the right person to sell it to or finding a good reason to put it in. I’ve worked on a couple of transmission conversions at the shop and the little details add up quickly. But if you really want to do it then do it, I think it’s a pretty cool thing to do if it’s done right. I say all that but I’m also the same person that would swap a 6R80 in my truck if I found one for dirt cheap:nabble_smiley_happy: there’s just two sides to everything

Glad I could help. Spending that much time at freeway speeds I definitely think an OD swap would be good. I’ve got a very similar setup as yours, 95 351 roller, C6, 3.50 geared 9 inch. I’ve got 33 inch tires at the moment and at 70 I’m around 2700 rpm. That averages about 12 mpg. That’s also with efi and a very mild cam. But I can count on one hand the amount of times I’m on the interstate in a year so the C6 doesn’t bother me. If you’re just gonna cruise it and not gonna try and make tons of power the 4r70w would do you well. If you’re gonna tow heavy and really work the truck hard an E4OD wouldn’t be bad either. You can build a 4r70w tough but I’ve never felt bad about having the “tougher” transmission. I’m not saying they’re weak, they live behind plenty of 5.4s that are in crew cab trucks, but there’s tougher options. Both will require a controller since they are electronically controlled. Those run about $600 with a wiring harness and you’ll most likely need to modify the driveshaft and add a speed sensor somehow. With gas prices the way they are it won’t take long to get your money’s worth out of it.

I forgot about the mention of a 4r70w. They’re good transmissions. We do see them on a semi regular basis but they’re getting to age where they’re just worn out. They’ll be more expensive but depending on how much you drive, your current final drive ratio, and your typical cruising speed, it could pay for itself.

I work at a transmission shop and I would highly recommend having a shop rebuild it rather than ordering a reman. It’s typically cheaper and if you have an issue it is much easier to deal with a transmission shop face to face. So if there’s a reputable shop around you I would have them do it. As far as the differences in the transmissions it could be several different things - converter stall, clutch count, valve body differences, pump differences, shift timing, vacuum modulator, etc. Maybe the trans specs changed if you got certain packages like a snow plow package or different motors like an HO 351w or the 2bbl 351w? I’m just spitballing but it wouldn’t surprise me. If you decide to go the reman route you need to replace the radiator/cooler and blow the cooler lines out with solvent. Otherwise you might send metal and other materials back into the new trans from the old cooler.

I’ll definitely be doing whatever I need to do to the pump to make it reliable. And if I split the case apart I’ll be replacing any seal I can reasonably replace. I’m not concerned with much else though. The truck it came out of has probably never been in 4WD except maybe a couple of times if that.

So I was able to get the t cases measured. I think I may have gotten lucky. Both cases I have are slip yoke rather than flanged. From the mounting surface on the front to the point where the rear seal sits in the tail housing they both came out to 19 1/2 inches give or take an 1/8 to a 1/4. Once I make sure the stick out length of the outputs are the same I’ll call it good. So in my measurements the BW1356 is the same length as the NP208, or close enough for government work. I shouldn’t have to make modifications to the driveshafts. I’ll triple check though. So I’ll replace a couple seals, change out the tail housing for one with the speedo hole, do the pump modification, do a basic once over, and put it in. I’ve got both sets of linkages for each case so I’m sure I can make it work. The 1356 is said to be a lot stronger so I’m looking forward to this, especially since the case cost me nada:nabble_smiley_evil:

You could check the block casting number and someone should be able to tell you what it came from. Easy to see on the block if you pull the starter. The 351w HO should have the dipstick in the oil pan if I remember right. My 95 351w block has it in the block on the side. My old 351w HO would hold 7 quarts at the full mark. Never noticed any foaming when I pulled the dipstick. It should hold between 6 and 7 quarts. I believe the owners guide calls for 6.

The 351w block I have (F4TE) has had a TFI distributor, DSII, and MSD dual sync at different times.They all engaged the stock oil pump shaft positively. Hope that helps

Well that’s a bummer. We’re supposed to have a ton of rain soon but if I can get the chance I’ll crawl under the truck and measure the 208 and get the 1356 measured also. I trust your measurements but just to confirm I’ll check it out. I appreciate it!

Dane, you’re right. The speedo on the 95 is run off of the rearend tone ring and sensor. Well, that’s how it determines speed

I’d really appreciate that Gary. On the speedo hole- So I was told by a mechanic friend of mine that the case should have the provision for the speedo, it would just be plugged. I was surprised to not even see a plug. I’ll take some pics of it. If I was a bettin man I’d say that Ford did away with the speedo hole in the later 90s trucks. At that point vehicle speed was determined from the speed sensor in the rear end and there was no reason for the hole. Maybe it was cheaper that way once they ran out of tailhousings with the provision?