Tarheel Blue

I had a think about this, and the things that came to mind were that the wheelbase is 4" longer and the frames are far different. I suppose if you have a welder and enough ability to replace the floor it shouldn't be a big deal to fill some bolt holes and broach some new ones to fit the bed bolts. (I usually tack them to the floor to keep them from turning and get the -by now- really rusty nuts off anyhow) Also. I don't know if the 70's corrugations will put the bolts in the valleys, or you need to drill new holes in the cross braces that bolt to the frame. I'm not sure if the extra 4" of the 70's trucks is that the wheel arches are farther back in the bed or the cab itself is longer. It might pay to find a 73-79 truck and measure before commiting. From what I’m reading it sounds as if your intention is to replace the entire floor. But if you’re looking to patch in areas, I throw out this caution. The LMC patch panel that I purchased a while back was not even close to matching up to the factory corrugations, as seen here. Perhaps things have changed with their supplier, but be careful with the LMC offerings. Cheers

I’m happy with the results. Not only for the fit, but for me, I like the more modern screw/ click torque cap. While I did very much appreciate the nostalgia of the “radiator style” cap that was original.

I grabbed the plastic bucket when grabbing the metal neck. Think it was a ‘87. The bucket mated up to my fender just fine.

You can sorta see the bucket/ funnel in this video

When I removed the 16 gal side tank and installed a Bronco 33 gal rear tank, I also upgraded to the newer fill hose/vent assembly. Grabbed the upper metal part with the vent and plastic bucket/ funnel thing that attaches to the filler door. Then needed to connect that to the tank so went to somewhere, Tanks, Inc. I think, and got a rubber hose that had they right angle. You can see it “installed” here And here’s the differences in the metal fillers

Gary, thank you very much for the offer! I may take you up on that, but not just yet. After seeing a few pics now of how Ford designed that button/spring device and what it looks like, my mind immediately goes to “That’s much ado about nothing” I’m an Architect, that’s what I see in things sometimes. So, this is my current thought, for the time being. The Sniper 2300 that is newly installed has a handheld GUI. I have to have a stylus onboard to switch through all of the various screens and gauges. Gonna try to drill or melt a hole in the lens to allow the stylus to trip the trip. I have a number of scratched lens to practice on, so no biggy if I make mistakes. Also thinking about how often I ever use the trip odo in our other vehicles. Only real reason currently in the truck is to more easily calculate MPG. I’ll reach out to you and Jeff if I end up being burdened by needing to find where I put that darned stylus.

Thanks Jeff, let me know if you find the button/spring. As for the lens, I probably would pass on that offer. Did a little searching last night and a couple of the various sellers of re-pop lenses say that you need to reuse your old button. Can’t seem to locate anyone selling new buttons and I doubt that Ford has a # for just the button/spring so can’t check NOS places like Green Sales.

Thanks all Guess I’ll give JBG a call tomorrow and see what’s included in their offering.

I guess I can see how that would work, but does anyone know if when you buy a lens, say from JBG, do you get the button and spring too? Never seen the button in the sellers images. If not, where do I get the button?

Not sure where to go next, so I came here (home) I acquired a Speedo w/ trip that as best I remember came from a medium duty truck. Posted a request for anyone that had a lens for sale for a medium duty truck and so far no action. Why the concern for medium duty vs std duty? My understanding has always been that a std duty trip odo has a button. Very easy to source a clear lens for those, used, NOS or re-pop. Easy peasy. The medium duty trip odo has a lever and what I assumed would be a slot in the lens. Can’t find one so decided to lay one of my non odo lenses on to see where I needed to cut a slot. See below, the lever wouldn’t even touch the inside of the lens. So even if I cut a slot, I still wouldn’t be able to “trip the trip”. What am I missing?

I need the clear plastic for a trip odo. Easy enough to find new/used for an F150-350, those all have a round hole for the push button variety of trip odds. Mine is a lever style and the lens will have a slot. Again, this is for the medium duty trucks.

Anyone have a good tutorial on how to remove a terminal from the fuse panel? Really good pictures of the terminal once removed so that I can see where the retainer part is? Back in 2021 kramttocs said, push up/ down on this tab and pull the wire out from the back. Easier said than done in my case. Cheers!

Are there any LRCs with longer delays? 5, 10, 30 seconds? Wondering why I need to start trying to get that battery back in order in such a rush.

Yeah, I knew what Gary was getting at, but Susan had already admonished me for even posting their names! I decided that if they want to point themselves out, they will.

And my wife apologizes for turning her phone mid way 🥹