tdm3

Anyone have any idea what a/c compressor this is and whether they're available?

Good call on the air conditioning Mat. Below is a picture showing the a/c installer's tag. Also a picture of the VIN door tag. The fuel tank, tank pump, external pump, refurbished computer and a new ground between the engine and body are all installed and she is back to running again. Next up is a tune up including a relocation of the tfi module from the distributor. Then a transmission fluid and filter change and finally, as has been pointed out, a brake system overhaul.

Interesting. That diode doesn't hook to anything. Did at one time, but they cut the one end and left it hanging.

I said that under the hood the truck was mostly unmolested. A pretty good feat for a 40 year old truck. That's probably another benefit of it being FI. A carburetor truck probably would have had much more tinkering done. Anyway under the hood there are two wiring anomalies I would like your opinion on as to why they are. The first three pictures show a wire that is spliced in on the driver's side near the coolant/windshield reservoir, runs over to the heater hose, uses it for a 'conduit' goes to another spliced connector near the starter solenoid and then enters the firewall. The second is this disconnected diode hanging around at the a/c compressor.

Mat I was concerned about the stickiness of the throttle hoping that wasn't the TV cable that was sticking or hanging. It is and was hooked up. Halfway home the truck made a loud engine speed related noise and vibrated seemingly in the drive line until I got pulled over. It didn't repeat that after we were back underway, but I am gun shy about the AOD because of all the horror stories I've read about mis-adjusted TV cables. David

Do our AODs have the little bushing that deteriorates in the TV cable?

My next task is to inspect, adjust and change fluid and filter in the trans hoping I haven't done permanent damage. I've never tackled rebuilding an auto transmission but i think with Bad Shoe Productions help I can do it, if necessary. I have the cds. After that or during, brakes are the next job. Jim, what is FDM? David

The road was 70 between Sparta and Watertown. The truck was in Watertown.

We cleaned the tank out with water and dawn. It actually looks really good on the inside, a little bit of crud and some bits of black grainy stuff that was probably the fuel pump hose. Tomorrow I hope to get the tank back on after church. I'm going to install the new computer. Before I start it we're also going to clean all the grounds so the computer will be happy. Here are a few more pictures. Any hints or comments are appreciated. David

This week I have started working on her. I knew I was going to have to drop the fuel tank. My guess was the lift pump wasn't doing its job and had helped burn up the external pump. I also opened the big frame mounted canister to change the fuel filter, not a big fan of that arrangement. The filter had been changed at some point (filter said made in China) but it had obviously been a while. I also wanted to pull the computer and at least replace the capacitors. The caps were bad but the board looked pretty good, no stains. I ordered the capacitors and also decided to purchase a refurbished computer to have on hand. New computer is here caps aren't yet. Today we dropped the tank out after siphoning 15+ gallons of stale+fresh gas (hey, the gauge wasn't working correctly. I didn't know how much was in there!). I was going to replace the filler neck hose anyway so i cut it and forced the siphon into the tank, worked well. I got the in tank pump out. Can you see what may have caused the external pump to fail? Here's the new one in place. I do not know where the clamps and the hose connecting the pump to the line went on the old pump, but they weren't where the should have been. It did not appear the tank had ever been opened. Maybe Ford didn't install clamps. But there was a hose at one point for sure. I don't see how the thing ran at all.

The only thing better than having one project is having two, right? Maybe not. Actually I bought this one to be a quick fix for a regular driver. I spotted this one on the road to Nashville several months ago, sitting lonely and forlorn in a back yard. From the road it looked to be all there, and it is. Problem was that there was never another vehicle in the yard testifying to someone being home. Finally on a Saturday, coming home from a funeral in Nashville, there was another car. Knocked on the door, asked if she'd sell it. She said she would. I looked it over, and was sold when I looked under the hood and saw a mostly unmolested 302. I had hoped for a carb and duraspark but got fuel injection and EEC-IV. So I am learning a lot. I asked what she wanted for it, she offered I countered and the deal was struck. It was her dad's truck. Both he and her mom had passed away. Her dad is the truck's second owner and owned it the majority of its life. She had been driving the truck for 'around the property duties' until one day the passenger rear wheel was locked up. It evidently sat a while between runs. After we made the deal I told her I'd be back the next Thursday to try and get it ready to drive the 50 or so miles to its new home. Remember I have no experience with EEC-IV and MFI. First thing was to get the rear drum unlocked, took a bit but succeeded. I had been looking on here and other Ford truck forums for hints on EEC-IV. With the wheel loosened I turned to fuel and ignition. A smart man would have towed it home, siphoned the gas out (didn't smell too bad), and started with fresh gasoline. I never claimed superior intelligence. I did attempt to siphon the gas, but the vent tube prevented me from getting my siphon into the midship (and only) tank. I have smelled rotten gas. This wasn't it. It didn't smell fresh, but it wasn't reeking either. So I decided to add a couple of gallons of fresh to what was already in there. Then I decided to check the fuel pumps and relays. The EEC-IV (ECA?) relay clicked, fuel pump relay didn't. Looked at the FP relay and it was obvious someone had taken it out before, the clip was broken. I went to town and purchased a relay, installed it. The in tank pump now ran, the main pump uttered not a noise. This was the end of my afternoon. Friday I came back with my helper (wife Christi). Things always go better when she's around. I removed the main FP and made the trip to NAPA to get a new one. I had already checked to make sure I was getting 12 volts to the pump. I installed the pump, a new battery and hit the ignition and it... started. It took it several revolutions and a squirt or two of ether, but it actually ran and idled. Score 1 for us. Decided to drive it around the field. The same rear wheel locked up. In reverse it would roll but when going forward it would lock up. So the reasonable thing seem to be to drive it around the field in reverse until the accumulated junk was rubbed off shoe and drum. Well, it did work. We went and said our good bys, hit the first gas station we came to and stopped to put in some more diluent and to try and remedy a sticky throttle. I applied some spray silicone to the throttle pivots and the cable. The stickiness got better and I am hoping it wasn't a TV cable problem, we shall see. We made it home with no problems, with the exception of a loud noise and vibration about halfway there. Pulled over, no fluids running under the truck. Everything seemed in place. Got back in started her up, didn't have another problem the rest of the way home. Got home, parked it for a while, went back out turned the key she fired right up. Got up the next morning turned the key and she wouldn't start. External fuel pump wasn't running, however the relay still clicked. More to come...

Thank you, Sir.

Thanks Gary, Went back and looked just to make sure I hadn't misunderstood. Nope, it says, "E5TF-SA, SB". That's on the listing page. I did hit the info button and it says this: "OEM / Interchange Numbers: E5TF12A650SA, E5TF12A650SB, E5TZ12A650SA, E5TZ12A650SB". Still a confusion of id# versus part# and the '1' isn't there, but at this point I assume this is what I need. Thanks again for looking it up. David

I got it out. That tab bolt has a 7mm head. The ECM actually looks good. Caps need replacing but the board isn't stained or corroded at all. I am thinking of buying one to have. Mine is E5TF-12A650-S1B. Rock auto has E5TF SA or SB. Is S1B considered SB? They don't offer one with a number between the letters. Thanks, David