dsstephens

Quick update for posterity... sorted! new fuel pump to ensure getting to the 58psi required -the old one was pushing around 40, so worked, but weak. found a random post about recalibrating the tps with the pf4. basically, at operating temp at idle, adjust the IAC screw on the throttle body, when TPS reads anything above 0, turn the key off for 10 seconds, then do it again, until the IAC reads down to the required levels (around 12 is what I did at Idle, iirc.) this took about 8 cycles liek this I think to get the TPS reading at 0% at idle and IAC value in range. rigged up a pressure gauge and got the AOD dialed in (manually setting it wasn't hitting good shift point) Now the only thing keeping us from driving it is survival mode of driving the bronco without a/c in this 90 degree georgia heat. Picked up this harness for the a/c (it had factory a/c) so that's the next project for when can figure it out. thanks all for the help!!!

Quick update here and possibly useful info for the next installer 1) ran a separate temp sender for the autometer gauge, worked the charm 2) had the TPS and fuel pressure sender wires reversed; same connector, just a DOH! moment, which was sending fuel pressure reading whacky 3) replaced original TPS with another one (TH42), that fixed throttle reading (out of box failure on other one), but now can't get it to return to 0 at idle 4) fuel pressure is still off, too low by about 10psi, so will be trying out new pump, another new filter, etc. I'm using the 17401 58psi regulator on the end of the fuel rail, somewhat foolproof, so the problem is upstream. 5) starts run and will drive, but not well. some backfiring, some bucking. figure might be related to items 3 and 4 so need to get those sorted, but cyl 3 and 6 seem to be misfiring (swapped plugs, checked wires (new), same result) it's a sweet sweet sound to hear that motor run after so many years...even if it isn't right yet.

She lives! For the first time in a few years the 86 Bronco came to life this evening, courtesy of the ease of the pro flo 4 system. Not quite done, but progress. 1) evil energy fuel pressure regulator; gauge says 42lbs, but sensor reading says 119lbs...I can't imagine its 119lbs. I think I need to add vacuum to the regulator , so will do that in the morning and see if cna figure out why there is a mismatch in the pressure. I think I also need to up it to 58 and make sure I selected the right injectors (35) 2) coolant temp...used the sensor that came with kit. Not sure how to get the signal to the autometer classic gauge (replaced all the dash gauges a while back). I tapped into the wire and got the proper signal to the dash gauge, but it sent everything else haywire - coolant temp in the app said -4 degrees, other oddness. I assume there is a way to do this and just need to think it through; not set up for can bus. Looking forward to finishing this up tomorrow!

That's great. I'm stoked to get it running again. If anyone is inclined to take pics of their engine bay and post that would be great. Especially on the fender wells and firewall. While I've removed the harness there are lots of connectors floating around. I'm going to take some photos and post up as I progress, but pictures of finished product would be great frame of reference in this thread, and I'll do the same.

I had not seen this EDL-17401 fuel pressure regulator...I'll order this one and return whichever one doesn't work, but this one looks much more suited to the issue at hand. Thanks for the tip!

Great info all, thank you. AOD, so I've got a new lokar kickdown cable and bracketry for the proflo 4 to get that set right Lokar throttle cable (cut to fit) Lokar cruise control cable is backordered, but no big deal Back when it was running, we replaced the dash gauges with a classic dash binnacle with autometer sport comp electric gauges with gps speedo. no canbus, but all the sensors work etc. When we did the fiveology racing EFI conversion a few years ago we put a new pump on the frame, so I got a new regulator to plumb in. the ford compression fittings on the fuel lines had to be cut off...so that will be fun. Harness is fully out, but there are all sorts of connectors dangling around in places that I have no idea what they are. Will figure it out...most of them are likely irrelevant to getting it running. Amazing how much cleaner the engine bay is without all that stuff. sidebar: Things I'll have available, in the hartwell ga or roswell ga area 2 wiring harnesses from an 86 -both are in questionable condition (there's no question, they are knackered) 2 ECC-IV's, one with a programmable tuned chip a 3rd NOS 87 wiring harness that I bought out of hope and frustration Edelbrock performer intake BBK throttle body all the air filter boxes/hoses random other under hood stuff fuel rail, with, IIRC 36lb injectors https://photos.app.goo.gl/7Y48wXvA7Sa3kYmD8

just to close out this thread given all the great help I received, I ultimately gave up on the wiring. I even sent the harness out to a restoration company (that has mixed reviews for sure) and the estimate to restore it was so much that I have chosen to completely eliminate it and go with the pro flo 4 system. All of my problems are wrapped up in the EEC and fuel injection, so a complete replacement and getting that to work will be better than chasing rainbows with the old stuff. Thanks again!

Thread revival...Long time lurker and infrequent poster here...mainly because our (project with my son) bronco has been laid up for years with a myriad of electrical problems and no priority to fix it. Fast forward to now, we've given up on getting the wiring and the original (but modified to fiveology racing sequential/maf style efi) stuff working and took the dive into the pro flo 4. I *think* I've got everything (which means I do not) and we've started removing all the older - but still newer kit - like the edelbrock performer truck intake, bbk throttle body and a bucketload of problems that I'd sink in the middle of lake hartwell if it wasn't illegal. No idea what many of the electrical thingamabobs are under the hood, but removing the old harness to the eec and the eec gave me great joy. I'm sure that will be short lived when I go trying to figure out why it won't start, but for now it feels like a win. We've owned this truck for 6 years...and ran like a beast for 1 of them. It's ready to get moving again and this (and many other) threads on this system have inspired some confidence that this system was a good choice! @nickelback any further insights on the return line for the fuel and the fuel pump wiring?

Thanks. I had not seen this one despite an inordinate amount of time on the ronfrancis site. This looks like one of the missing pieces for sure!

Thank you! That one looks about as crusty as mine, but at least it looks like it is in 'one' piece. I have tried to decode what an actual part number would be (eg FZ something something). I've downloaded the master parts catalogs, but I have not finished learning ancient sumerian yet. :) Update: I figured out the MPC (I think) Part#'s listed below E5TZ-14401-W - Underdash wiring harness <- don't really need, since I put in aftermarket gauges and everything else works E5TZ-12A581-BH - Underhood wiring harness <- NEED E6TZ-9D930-C - Fuel Injection wiring harness <- NEED E1TZ-14A318-A - Door window wiring harness <- don't need E1TZ-14A318-B - Door lock wiring harness <- don't need I have found things that look "close" on ronfrancis like this...https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/496 and painless (the 65011 that i have), but am so confused, that I think an original+the overlay is only what makes sense to me. We appreciate the wisdom and links!

That's correct - I need a factory engine harness at it came off the line.

I am confident I will not be explaining this correctly :) 86 Bronco, XLT, all power, A/C 302 with SD EFI <-orginally, AOD, manual shift transfer case rebuilt to 347 used fiveology racing MAF conversion/EFI kit, which includes a wiring harness overlay 3 years ago...the engine bay wiring harness (this includes the bundle that goes to the 60 pin eec, which had been relocated to the bay in a questionable decision) was trashed. It has sat since at shop "until they got around to it", which was never. I am struggling to find what hiring harness I need. I can get a new overlay from fiveology...but its what it overlays on that is the problem. I found an 87' NOS on Jeff's Graveyard...bought it just in case it might work. I have a painless 5.0 harness NIB (shop bought it but never tried to install it) Truck is in hartwell, ga - i'm just as happy at this point to take it to a shop (haven't tried to locate one), but I think my son (its his truck...) and I can figure it out if we can first figure out what harness we need and locate one. Hence this post. :)

Ouch! Since you live in Atlanta I'm going to assume you hydrolocked the rods, or bent the crank. If it was up here *it would have been* that the block froze and cracked.

Thanks! happy to be on the member's map.

ArdwrknTrk - thanks for the replies posted some info on the internals in another message looks like @dorsai lives within same burb I do, so big city...small town I definitely need the EFI help. I am an accomplished parts changer. the debugging...and anything electrical...is mostly voodoo to me. w/o AC is NO BUENO. I imagine it all needs to be replaced, the vacuum lines are shot, the duct work behind the dash I know has a crack...so I have replacement parts for it all. just have to do it and charge it. "just". I'm also rebuilding another truck at the same time. and working more than full time. so nothing gets done fast.