Bulletproof250

Jim, thanks again, your direction to Gary's post, lead me to confirming that this was the SKF-BK1 kit I needed, although I've already installed the needle (thrust bearing) bearing and seal the remainder of the seal /slinger was broken down into components and looks to be the right fit. I'll post back once I pick up the parts from my local NAPA. Last piece before re-assembly of the front end... Stay-tuned....

Thanks Jim, I found that one too on their website, and that's also th one they showed me , in-stock, at the local NAPA. They did some research too, and were telling me the same "...difficult to find them anymore". I'll keep searching. I'm headed to the Ford dealership today. I have not seen an alternative configuration or stackup of parts that I can make-do with. I have nearly all of the different options in my shop right now but have not figured it out yet. Thanks for you effort on your "..slow night"

Where do I get these? https://photos.app.goo.gl/agMFovhUCDqstkza7 https://photos.app.goo.gl/71CS5PegUsH7vqxeA https://photos.app.goo.gl/YkyXbRKNDgXAShTN9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/broZ1YMZTpVMBjEY7

Thanks ahead for all of the good info I've received already. I am nearing the last of the procurement stage in this project and may in-fact have all of the needed parts, although... The seal between the axle shaft and the knuckle. The one that is on there has a metal body, encapsulated by the rubber making the seal the 2 that I received from my local parts store, looks to be rubber only. has something changed or have I gotten the wrong parts? I think that I have the 1175 for the image above, however I cant grasp the replacement part for the 3C132, and since I have a Dana 44HD, I'm not sure if I'm looking for the right part. Any insight to solving this is greatly appreciated,

Thanks Jim, I'll start my search through the Documentation on this site.

Hey there Prospect62, I thought I'd bump your post and see if I can get some answers for us both, I currently have my 44HD with the Knuckles out and I'm working to confirm I am ordering the correct parts as well.

Jim, it's part 3123, but I think I have the Dana 44HD it looks similar the D50 Beams

I think that I meant the axle shaft bearing inside the spindle,

Thanks Jim, Yes, this is regarding the PS (Right), and I've since gotten the axle shaft out. I've marked the shaft and the mating slip joint to be sure it goes back together with the same indexing. Now, can anyone tell me about the spindle bearings, and which PNs (aftermarket) I should order? Am I seeing this correctly the needle/rollers bearings are different for each side? Hmmmmm.

Looks like mine has the C-Clip inside the pumpkin. Buuuuut, Can I just take apart the shaft at the slip joint on the DS? I was about the cut the Boot off to find out but figured there were some other experts here. Nothing SpecialReply | Threaded | More Dec 03, 2020; 9:46pmRe: Dana 44 Axle Shaft Removal? Wrote: "If all you're doing is the ball joints you don't need to take the inner axle out of the diff. Just do the same things you'd do on the driver's side. But before you slide the axle out you need to removed the "hose clamp" on the rubber boot that's on the axle between the center U-joint and the knuckle. After that the axle might not slide out freely because the rubber boot might be stuck to it. But you ought to be able to get the rubber loose from the axle shaft without too much trouble, and then it'll slide out just like the driver's side."

OK I've read the documentation and I've already removed the knuckle on the DS. What do I have to do to remove the axle shaft from the PS? From what I have read, It seems like the the pivot bolt for the PS arm has to come out but I also see a slip-yoke with a boot over it, but before I did into the boot, Does the slip yoke release the axle shaft through the knuckle? i have already removed the spindle. Any clarification would be great Thanks to all of you that contribute here. Harrison is staying happy

I'm glad to see that my "Non-Engine-builder" mind had made the same assumption. Any tips on the Cast rocker design of the '74 Gran Torino Heads (60cc chambers)? I near 100% sure that my stock valve train is the stamped configuration, and I'm not thinking that they are simply interchangeable heads, am I incorrect? I also do not have the Rockers so I'll be purchasing rocker arms anyway. Thanks again for the response Mat

Thanks Mat for the clarification, that's how I kind off saw this Mod going as well, but you've added some clarification to my assumptions of the effects of the heads on the motor. I do have a Holley 550 CFM and a Torker II I got for free from another Ford Friend of mine, who has gone to a Sniper EFI. I plan on adding the heads, Headers, Intake and Carb as a single project. I'll work my ow-budget angle on this one and see how it goes. I hope to get into it in a month or two. I'll do my best and continue to check back as I progress through the project. Have a good weekend,

Thanks Mat, I'm not trying to do anything too crazy, just looking for some easy bolt-on upgrades. The smaller chamber ( (69cc to 60cc) and larger valves ( from 1.78/1.45, to 1.84/1.54) I thought would be an upgrade, but if it is a more complicated of a fitment, I may scrap that Idea and simply clean up the heads already on the truck. If I can confirm I can find the parts to make these heads work, fine, but if finding the parts to make this work is like finding a golden-egg... I'm not in the hole a bunch already....yet,

I don't think they're interchangeable, but I don't know much about the pre-1978 SBF cylinder heads, I just know that the rockers were completely different. The E5 heads will bolt on to the block no problem, but you will likely need rockers and pushrods specific to those heads. One of the guys on here will know more than I do on the topic. It looks like these are the pressed studs which leads me to believe they might be inline with the "Rail" style rockers. It is not out of my capabilities to convert them to the Screw-in style if that makes them a bit more like the current heads I had originally planned on using the old stamped steel rockers from my current (19080's 351 heads if it's possible. I may have got myself into a bit of a pickle, without initially wanting to get into a full build, therefore a new valve train wasn't in the budget Any guidance on the best way forward is appreciated. Thanks,