old55pete

as the orignal pump was a Bosh and NAPA offered a Bosh, that was what I replaced it with. The one I am putting on today is a Bosh. After I got it out, I shook it and it sounded like a trash can full of rocks. I hooked it up streight to the battrie and it made a loud hum and if I hit it with plyers it would come on for a second or so, it got so hot that I couldent hold onto it. All of the gas that drained out of it is clear.

That is ether a C or an M, Not a windsor

And the plot thickins, it has now burnt up the new relay. I put in a relay test switch and powered the pumps, I could hear the pump in the tank come on but not the high pressure pump on the frame. Crawled under it and touched the hot wire in the pump and it was smoking hot. That pump was put in in may. I have a new one ordered from NAPA as that is where I got this one.

I finally figured it out, the wires are shorted in the relay plug. I replaced the plug with one from NAPA and wired it correctly from the EVTM and now it works like it should. Fuel pumps come on for a few seconds then shuts off, start it and the fuel pumps run like they are supposed to.

Is there a coolant bypass hose from the water pump to the thermostat housing? If there is, it is a small block, 302 or a 351 W. That is a starting point

There may be a second fuel filter in your system that needs to be changed. it is after the high pressure fuel pump between the pump and the engine, my EFI Bronco has two filters. I know you said it was running good now with changing the TFI, but you might want to change the other filter too.

So, what would happen if I just cut out the old relay and put an equeal sized one from say NAPA and omited the return from the ECM pin 22 and made that wire a ground? That way I still have the control power from the ECM to turn on the relay with the key

I just cut out the plug on ground 101 by the battery and soldered the connection. I still have the same result.

Bill, I have checked that ground as I noted that it was a part of that system also. I am thinking that I will replace it to know for fact that it is good. The thing I have going on is that it stays powered. So if I jumper it and get the pumps going, even through the start and run, it still stays a 12 volt. If I understand correctly, before you start it it is a momentry ground to get fuel pressure to start, when it is running it is supposed to be a ground after it gets oil pressure, yet it still has a 12 volt feed back. What am I missing here?

Been pouring over the EVTM's trying to figure out a problem with the fuel pump relay not energising and firing up the fuel pumps. What I am finding is that with the key on, I have three hots. One from the ECM( control power), one from the battrie ( controlled power ) and another one on pin 22 which is supposed to be a feed back to the ECM. I can jumper the controlled power and get the pumps to fire up. I am hoping that some one can correct me, but I thought that pin 22 was supposed to be a ground to pull in the relay and and put voltage through the relay to fire up the pumps.

Chad, Are you looking for a serpentine set up for a 460? will one from a van fit? there are a couple here at U Pick it

Will that replacement cable work with the AOD also?

I stand corrected, thank you Gary

I am sure that someone will come a long and correct me, But from what I have been reading, the engine cross member is the same in all of these pickups. What you need to do is change the engine mounts to the 460 mounts instead of the 300 mounts.

I've seen it a few times before so it doesn't surprise me. Keep in mind that EFI trucks use a different bracket, so it has to be from a carbureted truck or van. There arent any EFI 460's that I saw up there. There were some that had serpentine belt systems. Then again I dident look at the vans that hard ether.