Blacktop

Yes, it was pretty straight forward. Like you, I had my 1984 with factory hydraulic clutch at the same time so I had it close by to measure and copy. There's not much room for that master cylinder...it's almost hard against the brake booster, so the side to side measurement is almost a no-brainer. The vertical position is all you really need to study. I bought a hole saw the same size as the master cylinder housing...I think around 1.25" or something like that. It was readily available. On both trucks with the M5R2 swaps, I ordered new clutch slave cylinders and hydraulic lines for a 1991 F150, and used clutch master cylinders from 1984. The 1984-1986 master cylinder is the same as the 1987-up ones, but the studs are in different positions. Otherwise they are identical. Good idea to brace the firewall for the clutch master. For my 1984 I installed a brace from Terrapin, but they are no longer making them. I believe JBG is the only company offering them currently. For the 1980 swap, I just made a little brace myself and it worked fine. I bought new seal kits for both M5R2's...they were cheap-ish and easy to install. They're known for leaking at the rubber plugs on the top cover. I replaced them with the little metal plugs, but I later had an issue with trans fluid coming out of the speedometer cable in the dash LOL. The shifter bushing kits made a BIG difference as well. PS: You can buy new plug/pigtails for the M5R2 reverse switch FYI. They're cheap if you need one. Did you get the correct crossmember to go with the M5R2 as well? I'm a big fan of this transmission and swapping it into Bullnoses. I had great luck with mine. The first one was quite "notchy" shifting 1-2-3, but it got noticeably better as it warmed up. It was used after all, with probably 100,000 miles on it...so I can't complain. That's only what the guy told me...it could have had 300,000 miles on it for all that I know. Another thing I did was I welded an NP435 4spd shifter stick on to an old M5R2 shifter stub I had. It wasn't that I was crazy about keeping the truck period correct lol, it was just something to do. Wow, thank you for all the info Rembrant👍 I didnt get the crossmember unfortunately. I'm hoping to use the existing one and just reposition it if needed🤞 I bought a new clutch master cylinder but will also get a new slave and pipe to suit the M5R2 aswell. Also will buy the shifter bushing repair kit and propshaft seal just incase. Alan.

Good tip on the 11 inch clutch👍 Did the conversion for the hydraulic clutch on the 1980 body go easily? I made a template from my 1984 truck that I intend to use to drill the mounting holes on the 1980 truck firewall. I will add some strengthening at the same time to stop it flexing. Alan

Yes. The 157 tooth flywheel will not work with the M5R2. Yes. For a 2wd, you'll want a 1988-1991 M5R2 if you can find one. The 1992-1996 M5R2 will fit and work just fine, but 1991 was the last year for the cable driven speedometer. Many thanks Rembrant, yes the M5R2 is from an '88 F250 2wd. E8TA-YE trans id. So its a straight forward trans swap then, except to convert for the hydraulic clutch etc Alan

Hi folks, not been on here for awhile. I was going to fit a T5 manual trans to my 1980 F100 I6 300 2wd in place of the T18. So I sourced a zero balance 157t flywheel to use for the conversion instead of the 164t flywheel which I believe wont fit in the T5 bellhousing. However, I now have the option of using a M5R2 trans instead. Would the 164t flywheel currently fitted to the engine fit straight in the M5R2 or would I still need to use the 157t flywheel? Also, would the current starter also transfer over on to the M5R2 without any issues? Many thanks for any help Alan

Thanks for the info. I have a 10 tooth pmgr starter as well. Was destined for my F150 351 so might try it in the F100 instead 👍

Its a 1980 300 I6 with manual trans so I believe it has the 9 tooth starter.

Thanks for the detective work😁 When I get chance, I'll drop the starter and confirm it is 9 tooth rather than 10. Just my luck that the tooth count changed. I may be restricted to just replacing with like for like. Although, perhaps I might source one aftermarket but I doubt it. Cheers, Alan

Hi, I'm considering upgrading the stock starter on my F100 straight 6 manual to a pmgr version. Anyone know which model trucks had a compatible 9 tooth pmgr starter from the factory? Searching rockauto seems to show the later trucks had the 10 tooth starter. I believe my manual trans 300 i-6 has a 9 tooth starter🤔 Many thanks, Alan

Hi Gary, yeah fitted a new badge that I had kicking around to pretty it up. It took a long time to mask everything. Just took my time with a lot of patience. Alan

Painted mine black, was argent previously. Just needed brightening up a bit. I like it. Before After

Hi from a fellow UK owner:nabble_waving_orig: Alan

Took a while but finally got a decal on one of my trucks. Saving the rest until I decide a place for them. Thanks again Gary👍 Alan

Wow, thank you Dave and Gary for the indepth info. This is what makes this forum such a goldmine for someone like me. I guess my easiest option is to ditch the brake swop idea and just source another set of wheels in the smaller bolt pattern. Its right what people say, KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid. 🤣 Many thanks again guys👍 Alan.

From what I can see cross referencing part numbers on Rockauto, the early rotor diameters are 11.040" and the later rotors are 11.720" The height of the early rotors are 4.280" and the later rotors are 5.387" I believe this is just down to the rotor thickness being 1.185" on the later rotors and 0.875" on the earlier rotors. The spindle, wheel bearings and caliper part numbers are the same for both early and later 2wd. Perhaps the only difference is the brake pad thickness, pcd and rotor thickness. Alan

Don't those definitions seem appropriate here? My stickers arrived today Gary:nabble_smiley_grin: Many thanks again. I will post a pic up once I have them fitted. Thank you, Alan