CountryBumkin

Thanks for your reply. Sorry for not seeing this sooner - I almost forgot I posted here. My '82 F250 came with a 351W (EEC-III), and I swapped in the 460 about 20 years ago, so no hot fuel return. I could pull the sender and drill a hole in it for return line. But I was thinking it would be easier to drill a hole in the top of tank and then I wouldn't need to doing anything extra if I was to ever replace that sender. I already had the tank out once (then I had two -8 AN fittings welded to bottom rear corner of tank and one -6 AN fitting added to the top for the return. That was for the MSD Atomic fuel injection setup (which runs at 50 psi). I should have added a second return line then, but was using a dead-head pressure regulator for the low-pressure pump (6 psi) for my nitrous setup. PS. If I drill a 1/2" hole in the top of the tank without removing/draining the tank - what are my chances of not blowing myself up? Perhaps I could setup a fine mist of water spray over the tank to reduce chances of a spark...

I think there may be a check valve in that connection/nipple (internal to sender unit) that is designed to prevent the fuel from draining out of the fuel line when the engine is shut off and the front of truck is higher than the tank. That would make sense. So, if I try to use that connection for fuel "return" the fuel won't make it into the tank. Maybe I can test this theory by connecting some hose and blowing into the tank via the nipple.

I use a low pressure (6 psi) Holley Red electric fuel pump for my truck's NO2 system. I just switched my fuel pressure regulator to a "bypass style" due to pressure creep. Now I need a way to return this bypassed fuel back to the tank. My tank setup has a fuel feed line coming off the bottom for the supply, so I am not using the stock fuel line connection that comes off the top of the fuel level sender unit. Is there any reason I can't use that connection for the fuel return line? If not, I also bought a JEGS -6AN compression fitting designed for this purpose but it requires that I drill a 1/2" hole in the top of tank. If I don't need to drill a hole in the tank that would be preferable. What do you think?

Thanks for all the replies. I did not have "NPD" in my saved sites - so at least I have a new source now. Unfortunately they don't have anything I need. At least I know where I can get the "cardboard panel for the back of the bench seat (for $217). :) I'm trying to repair the crumbling section now by laying some fiberglass on the backside. Not sure if it will work or not... I recall these panels (actually all of the interior panels) were available for a while from aftermarket sources. It's probably 10 years or so since I seen (or looked) for any trim panels. I guess E-bay is the last resource - but I wont hold my breath. Any truck parts at Ebay would be at least 30 years old and probably in the same condition as what I have now. - Mike

I need the corner trim panels (L & R sides) that fit behind the seat (fit corner from floor to roof. The seat belt retractor is also behind this panel) for my '82 F250 XTL Lariat. The stock panels are so dried out they crumble when touched. I'm replacing the rear window and repairing some rust, so I had to take these trim panels out. I looked on Dennis Carpenter site, Jeff's Bronco Graveyard, and LMC Truck. Are there any other sources?

So you're thinking the printed circuit assembly is the issue with the Tach? I did order a complete dash cluster from E-Bay. Of course it is going to be as old as the one I have now, but hopefully works. That would get me another printed circuit assy and a Tach along with the other gauges that I don't need (so those would be more spare parts). On the radio, it's not a big deal that it doesn't work - but it would be nice to have it. My truck is not a daily driver. I don't want to pay $250+ for a "retro radio" since I don't use the truck that much. It would be worth $50 or so to have someone look at it and maybe find a simple problem. Thanks

Thanks for that link. While looking at that one, I found a couple more. I was surprised that there was quite a lot for the 1980-86 trucks. It must come in waves as the last time I looked for something for my truck on EBay I could find much. So I ordered a complete dash cluster (hopefully with a working Tach and good printed circuit assembly) for $149. I'd be happy just if the Tach works.

It looks like there are two "Printed Circuit Assy., Instrument Cluster, E1TZ-10K843-B" at different places for sale. I e-mailed both places. This would just be a "backup part" now. I managed to get everything working in the cluster (except the Tach) by tweaking the circuit board connector area. I think the next time I work on it, will be when that circuit assembly fails. So I'll be lucky if I can get the part now. On the radio, yes I was inside it. The gear on the Tuning shaft failed/slipped so one could not change stations or fine tune a station. I was able to repair that. However I think doing that repair caused the left audio-output to fail. But maybe it is just coincidental. I opened the radio case back up but don't see anything wrong. There are some rusty looking resistors (?) on the radio board near the back but that's above my pay grade. I cant fix mechanical things, but totally lost when it comes to electronic circuit repair. On the Tach, well, there are no salvage yards left with 80-86 Ford trucks. At least not around here. I checked the usual sources (Dennis Carpenter, Jeffs Bronco Grvyd, NPD, LMC Truck) nothing. Perhaps EBay or similar. I don't have high expectations. Finding parts for these old trucks is not as easy as getting parts for a 69 Camaro or Chevelle, etc.

I started the truck up last week and the tach didn't work. I checked all the obvious things under the hood and did not find anything wrong, so I pulled the dash cluster to take a look at the wiring and connections back there. That opened a can of worms. The circuit board (the flexible plastic thing) on the back of the cluster has some copper strips coming loose where the electrical cable plugs in. When I reconnected the plug I had no turn signal indicators (which worked before). After messing with this for some time, I got them working again (still no Tach). One piece of copper broke off - but thankfully it was an unused slot. I think it would be smart to replace this circuit if it is available. The next time I unplug that connector - I think it will be unrepairable. Several of the copper strips seems to be loose on the backing material where the plug fits in. The outer plastic cable guide for the gear position indicator broke, but I was able to use some epoxy to hold it together. The A pillar trim cracked (epoxy again). All the plastic is brittle. Also my OEM AM/FM/Cass radio is acting up. The left door speaker is not working, but the problem is at/in the radio. The tuning knob broke (internal gear) and I was able to repair that - now the left speaker doesn't work. I don't see any obvious problem inside the radio and that is the extent of my electronics skill. So -- 1) where can I get a Dash Cluster "circuit board" (I know it's not board, but not sure what to call it)? 2) is the Tach still available (aftermarket, used or NOS)? 3) Where can I get a (factory looking) Radio (I only need AM/FM, but I assume a Cassette player would be built-in an OEM replacement. But I don't have any cassettes) that fits the stock opening? I don't want to cut the trim panel.

Thanks. I put in almost 8 qts before I stopped to ask the question. Now I'm overfull but my (aftermarket) tranny pan has a drain plug so I can drain some back out.

I could not find a "fluid capacity" specifications section on your forum - so I'll ask here. What is the refill capacity for my C6 transmission? it is a 1982 F250 4x4 with "deep pan". The service manual says "refill capacity is 13-1/2 quarts" -- but is that with an empty torque converter? I'm just replacing the transmission filter and I did not drain the TQ. Thanks

I see from the link (to Drivetrain) that the BW1345 came with either a rear output shaft with 31 splines or 32 splines. Nice - thanks Ford. So if I can find a Flange Yoke, I need to be sure to get the correct one (which may mean pulling my Yoke to count splines).

What transfer case does Big Blue have? As you know I have the BW1345 in my F250. I think the output shaft for the BW1345 and 1356 are the same with 31 splines. I don't know if the OD is the same. So to be safe I'll be looking for a BW1345 rear output shaft "Flange Yoke". Can you provide a photo of the double cardan setup in Big Blue? I assume it was not stock. Did you go to the CV setup for the same reason I want to? Thanks

I have been wanting to convert my driveshaft to a "double cardan" style. Reason - is that with the lift kit my rear pinion angle is in-line with the drive shaft and the transfer case output yoke is closer to being parallel to the ground. (with a straight drive shaft the yokes should be on the same plane). So with the u-joint failure )mentioned in my other post) I figured this is a good time to do this mod. However the driveshaft shop says I need a "flange" output on the transfer case - and that there are non available for the BW 1345 due to age/obsolescence. Did the BW1345 ever come with a flange style output yoke? I think the Broncos had a BW1345 with double cardan joints (because of their short wheel base). If that is true, maybe I can still get a flange somewhere.

Once I had the driveshaft down, I went around and checked all the u-joints for smoothness/movement. it was obvious that something was wrong when I got to that one. it's the only one bad. This driveshaft has the Spicer 1330 u-joints. The ones I installed did not have grease fittings. Perhaps if I had grease fittings I would have seen the wear/movement while greasing. I've been considering another mod - but I'll post new.