reamer

Specifically for Flareside:nabble_smiley_beam:

I must Thank you on your pin-point solution to the issue, With the P.O. removing the instrument cluster, the Alt had no signal. As you said, the resistor was needed, I plugged in the cluster, and it is charging like a champ. THANK YOU.....I could chase the for years! Reamer

That make sense, now. The P.O gutted the interior to start "rebulbing" it. The instrument cluster, along with everything else has been removed so all the idiot light bulbs have been removed. He did say (and you can see it) when he pulled the cluster, a section of the printed circuit board "toasted". New cluster will be here today. Ill get it in and see what happens (with a fire extinguisher nearby) Thank You Reamer

Thank you

I have an interesting issue, I put in the new alternator; this type has 2 sockets as seen in photo 1. Now, the two big black wires from the lower plug actually merge into 1 wire a few inches on the engine harness. The white wire plugs into the engine harness and loops directly back to 1 of the tabs on the upper socket. With engine running the alt does not charge the battery. The battery stays at 12 volts, but I accidently touched a bare spot on the white wire to a bare spot of the black wire and instantly, the voltmeter hooked up to the battery went to 14 volts! It will stay charging as long at the engine is running (like normal). Shut down the engine, re-start and the voltmeter stays at 12v again (no charging) but quickly touch the white to black again (and release) and the alt "excites" and charges to 14 Volts. what is the problem? any ideas of what to check?

Now that the new garage is almost done, I'm looking at 2 post lifts, I have a 2015 F-150 super crew and I can't find any information on the center of weight balance (between front and rear tires) Would like to know this before purchasing a Symmetric or Asymmetric lift because of door positioning in relation to the lift-post. Just trying to keep up with Gary:nabble_smiley_happy: Any info out there? marks on the frame? Id like to add photos but nabble rotates them 90 degrees... Thanks

The Flareside is aluminum Bed rails are no longer available, (may re-consider at a later date), and the Dash speaker hole is postponed till summer, its too cold for the ABS plastic to set correctly.... Sorry Ron

Hi there I found out I need to make these in ABS plastic to survive the heat in the cab, Right now (winter) I cant get the table hot enough to make it stick and be stable. and I cant do them in the house because of fumes, Ill have to try in the springtime. Sorry. Ron

replaced once... @ 8 years ago

Already repaired, 4 hrs of work..

Darn radius arm bushing split!

How do vents in the doors work?

Running 33 x 10.5 on 15" rims on the Bronco, No problems... Sorry about the rotated image, this site rotates photos on me. Even after I rotate 90 degrees, do a "save as" and post that one, its not accepting the rotate here....

Running 33 x 10.5 on 15" rims on the Bronco, No problems...

I had these vents on the shelf well over 10 years now, "gonna put them in" well finally, yep, installed, They are from a '94 Ford cab. One mod I made to them was 1/4" hardware cloth to keep the rodents out during winter storage. With windows up and slider closed, the doors would not shut completely because of the "air cushion" created by the door closing, (and proper door seals working) If I lower the windows, the doors shut effortlessly. Now with windows up and slider closed the air escapes out the vents, no more "slamming" or forcing the doors to close. For some reason phots get rotated on theis site, sorry....