Hstrymkrs

Easy answer is that I don’t know yet. I “feel” like my braking is more efficient and controlled. My reference is only as options for better braking on these old rigs. I am sure some of the more seasoned people will reply. When I was doing my research for better, more efficient braking this was the best option without axle swaps, etc. I know that I don’t need to brake as hard as I did prior to the swap. I am running 35x12.5R15 with a 6 inch lift. Less pedal time to achieve the braking should help with heat build up???? I might be wrong. William

Apologies. Here is the hydratech link http://hydratechbraking.com/

Hi, René. I just put a Hydroboost from Bronco graveyard on my 1985 Bronco. Set up as a direct bolt in without modifi action to brake pedal, etc. Other people might have different options. I like the Hydroboost. As I understand it, the booster is actually made by Bosch(?) and the fabrication adaptor plate and hardware that bolt directly to the older ford trucks is made by Hydratech. I would call them if possible and see what their turnaround time is as it took me 10 months to get mine. It was also during the end of COVID, etc. When I bought off Bronco graveyard, it was ~$900. The last I looked it was closer to $1300 now. I don’t know what it would take to upgrade the rotors/caliper setup with these front axles. William

I ordered it from LMC. Painless has it listed on their website for sell. https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/10204 It is built for GM vehicles, so some modifications/terminals are needed to adapt it to the Fords. Overall seemed to be a decent kit with good instructions. I can send this fuse panel if you PM me your address. William

Hi, Kurt. I have the fuse block off my 1985 Ford Bronco XLT. It had cruise control, power windows and locks etc. I have just completed a re-wire with he Painless 28 circuit wiring. I can mail you this block if you need it. It is missing one of the “ears” for bolting/screwing to the firewall. William

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Thank you all for the help and encouragement. Here is the finish product. It just needs to cure. POR-15 patch, 2 coats of POR-15 sealer, 2coats of POR-15 top coat. I feel confident that it will outlast the rest of the truck. William

Finally had some rain free weather coincide with my days off. I put the seam sealer/patch on and I am Ow in the process of painting with the POR-15 and a POR-15 top coat. Going to be a long night as rain comes in tomorrow afternoon. Humid is only 40% so I figure tonight is a good night to stay up late and finish. I wanted to get this done before the cold days really set in. I don’t mind working in the cold, but I would not be able to POR it with the cold days. Then I would have forgotten how to assemble the dash by the spring thaw. William

I bought my front marker/blinker lenses at https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/ as they also had the small white “bumpers/bushing?” That the headlights rest on. My guess is that they are all sourced from the same place or just down the street from one another.

I received mine too. I, however, chose the back of my tool box that faces outward. As others have mentioned, I don’t put stickers on my vehicles. I hate it when dealerships put a bunch of stickers, etc on them. First thing I do when I get it home is take off the stickers that are not relevant. Thank you, John. William

Really nice looking truck.

Thanks you gentlemen. I appreciate the encouragement.

Thanks, Dave. That is exactly what I spent the day doing. I cleaned out the old seam sealer as most of it was coming up on one side and I figured there could be some integrity issues underneath it. I did find more holes. I also finished tearing out the duct work for the heat/air so that I could assess the passengers side more. Glad I did as there are some small holes there as well. Here is a look at the process as I went along. I am thinking I can get into the cowl with the small angle grinder with a wire wheel and get the seam cleaned up well and then put the POR patch/filler, then POR paint, and finish it with the paintable bed liner as mentioned above. I plan on going slow and easy so I don’t damage any of the thin metal, but leave as much in to support the POR as it sets up and hardens. I was able to get all the old outer layer of seam sealer off, and it left a small “filler” in the seam to close the gap. I think if I get the metal clean enough it will bind and ultimately do well at sealing it. I am feeling confident about the process and it working. William

Thanks, Scott. I will add that to the shopping list as well. It looks like the local advance auto stocks the POR stuff so I will go look at it today and start planning.

I used the POR-15 once when I moved the radius arm brackets back for the lift kit. It worked very well and you are right in how it hardens/cures. I was very impressed with it. It sounds like the biggest challenge will be the clean/prep to ensure the best adhesion possible. I will start looking at the pint/quart cans and spray cans and the filler/sealer so I can plan how much to buy as it isn’t cheap if I remember. I am sure I didn’t seal the small can I had the wax or cling wrap and it will be useless. I will know next time. Thanks for the heads up. William