Gary Lewis

That's why the "yet" was there. Charging stations are being rolled out. And battery tech is changing. But your question was if I'd buy a Tesla pickup if Tulsa gets the factory. And that pickup doesn't do what I've done several times. But that isn't to say an electric vehicle wouldn't be a viable option if we were to replace Janey's GLK. (We aren't about to as we love the car.) We no longer drive long distances each day of a trip like we did when we were younger. Now we have to get out every few hours.

I actually thought of that conversation, but my memory tells me that those parts are very hard to find. However, it is a good setup. Hope you can find all of the parts.

No, I won't. The range still is just not there for what I've done. As I type Blue is in Denver on its way back from Granby, CO to Skiatook with my daughter and family. That's a distance of 775 miles and they are pushing to do it in one day as my SiL has a meeting to attend tomorrow. There's one Tesla charging station in range from Granby, and that's at 350 miles at Colby. If they have a head wind or are for some reason not getting the 400 mile range, that would be a significant problem. And even if they did make it the charge time is at least an hour. But there's also the towing issue, which to me is the killer. My brother and I brought Big Blue back from Florida through the night at 75 MPH. With 35 gallons of gas we had a reliable range of 300+ miles, and we pushed it several times with the DTE showing 7 miles once. There's no way we would have wanted to plan our stops to match the limited # of charging stations on that run, nor would we have been willing to wait for an hour while it was charged. Similarly, when Janey and I pulled the boat to Powell and back we stopped several times each day for gas. And some of those times were in out of the way places, like Page AZ, where there is no charging station. So while I'm not averse to electric vehicles, I don't see them as a good replacement for a truck for my use - yet.

That's kind of why I was confused. Your setup doesn't look like what I've seen in the past. You might be able to shim the pulley a bit. Check to see how many threads are showing on the shaft past the nut. You can then put a shim behind the pulley to move it forward. Also, I just realized that we didn't have a page for alternator pulleys, but did have a page that included crankshaft and water pump pulleys: Documentation/Engine/Pulleys. So I added a tab there for alternator pulleys. And the thing to note is that there was/is a single sheave pulley for the 351's. Single sheave pulleys are Type 3, and double sheave are Type 6. The part number for the 351 pulley is C5AZ 10344-K and the ID number that will be on the pulley is C9AF 10A352-A or B. And the Motorcraft part number for it is GP-493. That pulley is supposedly on alternator E1BZ 10346-B, which was used on all F-Series trucks built prior to December of 1980. I can't tell you that it will line up with your crank pulley, but if you can't shim your existing pulley far enough to line the belt up you should be able to shim that pulley far enough as it is 1.02" front/rear as opposed to your pulley being 1.4" f/r.

Brian - You are on the list. And by the way, for anyone that is debating this in their mind, don't wait until we have a problem as I cannot add you then. Or, more correctly, you can't tell me to add you then.

Actually, they are 351HO air cleaners. Unlike the 460's with the trap door on the driver's side rear, the 351HO cleaners only had a passenger's side snorkel. And I have another, so may make it into a dual. Yes, yesterday was a good day. But now I'm really just down to the details, and in most cases have the parts on hand. So I should be able to make good progress. But some things I've either overlooked or changes in plans caused problems for the previous plans. One of the latter is the air cleaner. To just get the truck going I may put an aftermarket cleaner on it and make the dual snorkel one later. I've also discovered that to get the plastic fitting that goes to the radiator support for "cold" air to fit properly on the driver's side I'm going to have to cut it apart, flip the exit, and glue it back together. If I recall correctly, Luke did that on Big Blackie, so there is a how-to on that. But that can come later. And, there's the issue of a bracket for the throttle cable. There's no provision on the lower plenum for bolting a bracket on 'cause that is on the upper plenum for EFI. So today I'm going to see what can be done. I'm guessing that I'll have to make an aluminum bracket that will go under the heads of the rear bolts holding the carb to the adapter, and then mount the Bullnose throttle bracket to that. We shall see. But, I do hope to be driving it in a couple of months.

Yes, I like the punch idea. But I'm even more thrilled that the brakes work that well. I'm REALLY looking forward to trying mine. Anyway, congrat's!

Mine won't be here until next Friday, but I'm looking forward to installing them. The fixture directly over my work table is out and both bulbs went out at the same time so I'm pretty sure it is the ballast. So that's the one I'll start with, and hopefully it'll make a big difference.

John - I'm having a hard time getting my head around what you have. But I do see the alignment issue on the belt. Have you seen this illustration from the page at Documentation/Electrical/Alternators?

Thanks, Bill. I'll order the F5TZ-A hose. By the way, Rock Auto shows using 5/8" heater hose for the bypass. Is that normal?

Yes, we need to quarantine for a fortnight. So since the rest of our money is due late this month it isn't going to happen. As for another lockdown coming, it is happening all over the place here. We opened early and can't be bothered to wear masks, so it is spreading like wild fire.

Yes, I've been watching the news from Ol' Blighty, mainly to see what the decision would be about us Yanks coming in, but I did see about the pubs. However, I understand there are lots of changes, including not being able to pay with cash and having to order from an app. Or, at least that's what the news says.

Congrat's, Matt! That was a very thorough process, and you fixed several problems. Maybe even some you didn't know you had. And, since that pub you take pics in front of is probably open for the first time in quite a while, what are your plans?

I didn't see that, Cory, so thanks for the link. It is a beautiful truck. And I'll bet he gets the $14,650 he is asking. It is a better looking truck than Big Blue, partially because of the paint and lack of rust. But BB has a few tricks up his sleeves.

It still seems a bit buggy today too Gary, or is it just me? It was hit and miss this morning, but has seemed pretty solid this afternoon. One of the things that bugs me about Nabble is that they don't tell us boo. We, the users, tell them when there's a problem and then it usually goes away w/o anyone on their side telling us that it has nor why it happened in the first place. Granted we are getting a free service, so shouldn't complain. But I'm hoping that when we get to a commercial server we will get a lot more support.

I agree. Between the border issues and my decrease in income, I think virtual will be as good as it gets for me. We were 100% Covid-19 free here for two plus weeks...and now we've had 3 new cases in as many days...all people that traveled from outside. What a mess. I'd absolutely love to roadtrip my Bull to Skiatook. Gary, you need to move to New England!!...lol. However it works out I'd love to take part, and besides you guys should have a funny Canadian accent to make fun of, EH?...lol. I could get some BBQ takeout and have it while we're together (virtually together). Cory - I'd love to hear you say "aboot". Seriously though, I simply cannot see having the in-person show this year. My high school graduating class is currently debating having our 55th reunion in October, and one of our classmates that is a doctor just explained that this virus is going to be with us until well after they come up with a vaccine - and that won't happen until year-end at best. So if it isn't safe for a class reunion in late October it sure isn't going to be safe for a truck show in mid-September. But let's let a few more chime in before we make a decision.

No, you weren't. I was just playing around trying things when I sent you a note before. But you are on the list now.

Got quite a bit done today, although some of it isn't easily seen. I started with the coolant overflow hose, and the one that was on BB was pretty flimsy and liked to kink on the 180 turn to go into the expansion tank. So I found another one that was better, cleaned it up, and screwed one of the fancy stainless/rubber clamps on the side of the auxiliary battery bracket to hold the hose. And while I was "plumbing" I added the windshield washer hose and routed it neatly. Then I turned to the "electrical" work, as described yesterday. But I quickly realized that as I put the various wires in place I was burying the lower plenum, thereby making access to the various things there difficult. So I turned to that stuff and got the injector bungs plugged, the vacuum fitting installed, and the excess vacuum ports plugged. And, while I was at it I discovered that there are two coolant sender ports in the EFI plenum, so one of them got the aftermarket fitting and the other got the Bullnose temp sender. And all of those things got treated with Jim's favorite thread sealant - PST. Now, with the lower level stuff done I went back to the electrical. The oil pressure "manifold" screwed into the block at the back and the Bullnose oil pressure sender, the aftermarket gauge tube, and the oil pressure switch were re-installed in it, using PST. Then I laid the wiring harness from the ignition module's area over onto the engine and connected up the oil pressure switch and sender, added a horseshoe connector to the coil wiring instead of the eyelets that were there, and connected the coolant temp sender. At that point it looked like it was time to move on to the carb. First came the EFI/carb adapter, then the carb itself. That went so well that I thought I'd try the dual-snorkel air cleaner, but then I realized that I needed to install the A/C lines to/from the compressor. Oops, I made the air cleaner to fit using the old style compressor. Here's a pic on the left with the driver's side snorkel going over the lines, and the one on the right is with it under. Neither work, but I might be able to make another one with the snorkel farther aft and go under. And, here's what things looks like. Basically I got both the "electrical" and "lower plenum" tasks from yesterday's list done.

Crane is all I've purchased. But the single-diaphragm Motorcrafts are usually adjustable, so if you found one of those, even in a salvage, it should work.

Dave - The ones I ordered, which I think are the same that John bought, are 5000K. And if you look at the pdf on them, all of them have an 85+ color rendering index (CRI), which is very good. But, the only thing I can find that might relate to temps is the statement of "Suitable for damp locations as well as outside". Outside in Alaska? The Sahara? Dunno.

John - Good info. And based on your recommendation I just purchased 12 of the Hyperikon 5000K LED bulbs for $90. That's $7.50/ea instead of the $10/ea for 4 of them - and Amazon didn't have them in the 4-pack. Something to note is that Amazon pushes their Amazon Basics LED bulbs for fluorescent replacement. But I did a bit of reading and theirs uses the existing ballast instead of being direct-wired. However, in my shop, which is ~8 years old, I have as many ballasts failing as I do fluorescent bulbs failing. So the Amazon bulbs won't solve that problem. Plus, why run ballasts when you can wire directly? That's just one more thing to fail, and since they run warm they are using power. As for portable lights, I have a little Dewalt 12v LED light, below, that I love. But the battery is failing and it is the only Dewalt tool I have. In fact, I'm into the Ridgid tools big time, but they don't make a light like the one I have and all of theirs take the much bigger 18v batteries. I guess I'll just have to buy a new battery.

Nice truck! And not a bad price either.

Those are casting numbers, casting dates, etc. The info about the components of the distributor would be on a tag under a screw, and contain a number like D5TE 12127—FA, or D5TE-FA as the 12127 is the generic number for a distributor and is assumed. If your dizzy doesn't have a tag I can probably figure out which one you are supposed to have. But that really doesn't help you 'cause it doesn't tell you any of the details about advance curves. And, as you've discovered, not all vacuum advances were adjustable.

That is something to be proud of! I've pulled and swapped enough transmissions and transfer cases on my lift to understand the effort involved. It isn't easy, but is FAR easier than on your back, as Jim suggested. You are really going to like having a manual. I'm just not at all fond of the C6, and any manual is better.

Looking at our map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) I see that he's in Hot Springs. Jim - I've never built nor had built a New Venture. But the ZF in BB cost me $1K to have rebuilt. Needed lots of new parts.