Gary Lewis

Maybe you should consider one of the newer pumps. There's one with upgraded C-II internals that supposedly doesn't whine, and a C-II case with Saginaw internals. You can see them here. Either should use your existing brackets and hoses.

Jeff - I lied. It didn't work "perfectly". I posted it by attaching it and then clicking "Insert". But what actually posted was the file available to download. You can see that here. But that's at odds with your results of posting a video directly from your phone. Right? Can you try it again and let me know how you did it? Maybe even download my file and post it to prove it isn't the file?

Jeff - I'll see what I can do today re checking out the video bit on phpBB. And I just posted a 19 second video directly from my iPhone on InVision without going to Youtube. It worked perfectly but it is 35Mb in size and all you can get on InVision appears to be 48.83 Mb, which translates to maybe 26 seconds. And with people like Jim having limited bandwidth that may not be a good option. Still, it works.

Jeff - Go look here on InVision. I just literally dropped your Youtube's URL into the post and it was there.

Yes, I just replied to your attempt to post. I think I found a way to add on to phpBB to allow Youtubes to be easily included in a post, but having not done it I'm not sure. And then, while trying to post a link to where I found that info I couldn't get the link to work. Let me say that another way. I wanted it to look like "this link" and instead I got "https://www.phpbb.com/community/viewtop ... ]this link".

You must not know Gary very well Maybe don't think of it as trying to tilt the bumper down, but rather trying to rotate the bumper? What that led me to was maybe there's some clearance in the mounting bolts and it shifted through that clearance? If I'm understanding that picture correctly, it's looking at the mounting points on the driver's side, with the bumper (the front of the truck) to the left and the truck on the right. If the bumper rotated CCW from this perspective the back of the bumper would go up and the front would go down. So could the bumper have shifted up through the clearance in those bolts? Yes, he doesn't know me very well. How could he as he only joined this year. You may be right, Bob. If I remember correctly the front holes are slots. Or at least one is. So what I'll do tomorrow is to loosen it up and see if it'll rotate up. Won't take much. We shall see.

Wow! Well done!

Bummer! But at least you have a plan.

Ok, good. We can adjust parameters as we find them, so just let me know what issues you find as I may be able to fix them. That way we can make a better comparison.

Jeff - There is now no file size limit on the avatar and a 180 x 180 pixel limit. But you tell me what you think the pixel sizing should be?

Jeff - Before we hang phpBB let me see if I can up that size...

Thanks, Jeff. How was the avatar process on InVision?

Jeff - Which platform are you talking about regarding the avatar?

Welcome, Paul! Glad you joined. Ontario? Would you like to be on our map? You can see it on our page at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map, and we just need a city or postal code. We have more of the trucks down here where they don't rust as badly. But there aren't all that many of them, so we get lots of questions when we drive them.

The E4OD is in Dad's truck, and this is a non-tilting column. I don't see a spring, but do agree it is excessive play, although I don't know how you control play in the column. Since Scott wrote up the how-to on rebuilding steering columns I'm going to tag him.

When we used Big Blue's winch to pull the Mercury Mountaineer onto the trailer the other night we put a tremendous strain on the winch and, therefore, the front bumper. Enough so that at one point Steve/FoxFord33 and I thought the bumper shifted. However, I'm not 100% sure the bumper actually shifted, especially since I can't find any damage. Maybe the trailer shifted which moved the truck? There wasn't a key for the Merc so we were dragging all four tires as the tranny was in Park. We had the trailer coupled to the hitch that's bolted to the front bumper with the same bolts as winch is, so my thinking was that there wasn't much force on the bumper itself as all of the force would have been neutralized right there at that 1/4" thick mounting plate where the hitch and the winch mount. However, I now realize that I had a 6" drop drawbar on, so with the height of the winch there might have been 12" of "leverage" between the ball and the winch line, and that would attempt to tilt the bumper down. I measured today and found that the mounting plate is tipped down at the front 5 degrees from the truck, but I don't know how it was angled before. And looking the bumper and its mounts over I can't see any obvious bends. So I'm asking for your thoughts on what might have happened. But towards that end here are two pics. The one on the left shows the 5 degree angle, with the truck sitting dead level. And the one on the right shows how the bumper connects to the frame, with two large bolts top and bottom, which anchor 1/4" thick pieces of the bumper system. The big piece is welded to the 1/4" thick winch attachment plate, which is the horizontal piece on the right, and the "arm" that goes forward/right is a 1/4" thick piece that anchors the front of the bumper. And none of those pieces or the bolts show any sign of damage. Also, you'll probably notice the washers spacing the bumper away from the frame. There is a different number of spacers on the passenger's side, all of which was done to get the bumper to sit at right angles to the truck. Obviously I could now pull the washers on the top bolt to rotate the bumper up, but there are no washers on the passenger's side top to pull. Thoughts?

As reported elsewhere, the bypass isn't working quite right. It starts the truck about 1/3 of the time, and when it does the LED stays on for the 10 seconds. Another 1/3 it cranks slightly and stops and the LED blinks off then on. And last third you hear the starter relay click and the starter acting like it is going to go and then it stops but the LED blinks off then on. I'm wondering if the voltage to the module is dropping as I go from Run to Start and messing up the timer? That seems to fit with the LED going off and then back on. And the LED doesn't blink when it actually starts. But why does the LED come back on? If the LED is on that should mean that the module's relay is pulled in. Anyway, I got the label in it today, and here's a pic thereof although it looks a lot better w/o the flash. And here's the schematic to make it easier to ponder what is going on:

I took a video today of the noise I'm hearing in the steering column. The notes with the video say:

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! Glad you joined. You'll want to start a thread about your project in the main section in order to get the most input. Not everyone will see your question here in the NMSH folder. (But I'm glad you posted here as an intro.) Where's home? We have a map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. We can add you with a city/state or zip. Maybe someone on her is near you?

Easier on Nabble. phpBB preview doesn’t allow to see the final result. Have to post to see the pict (I am testing from my iPhone). Same with signature. Preview doesn’t show it. Same with text formatting: Preview shows the codes instead of results. I am wondering what Preview enables to pre-view before posting, is it limited to the core text only? Jeff - Interesting observations. I'll do some testing today and see what I find.

We had a good trip. It did take a while longer than expected, but we made it. And it was a good shakedown cruise, but now I have things to fix.

The steering column is a Bullnose one, although not original to Big Blue 'cause he had a tilt column I wanted out of there so I could hoist myself in. I didn't eliminate the telescoping shaft. But I don't think the issue is due to that or the Borgeson. I think it has to do with slack in the steering column itself. Sitting still I can pull the steering wheel up ~1/16". And it is that slack that appears to be allowing movement when driving that has rubber or plastic sliding against metal, making the noise. I say "appears" because I'm obviously not sure, but when driving if I hold the wheel up or down, so making sure there is no up/down movement, the noise goes away.

You don't need primer. Your top coat will adhere to tack POR15.

The calculator is at Documentation/Driveline/Calculator.

What do you mean by "adaptations"?