Gary Lewis

I think the figure I've seen is that every 10F degrees of cooling gives 1 HP. (Obviously that's not true of model airplane engines or diesel locomotives, but it may hold for large automotive engines.) So that would imply that insulating the cold air intake on a carb would help. However, very few carbs adjust the AFR for temp. So it depends on what temp your AFR is correct at because as the air cools the AFR goes leaner, and it might go lean enough to lose power rather than gain power. Still, if your temp sensor in your air cleaner is set for 110F, which is common, you could expect to hold it there save for really hot days. Here's the air inlet temp table from that test and you can see that they were able to hold the temp pretty close to ambient at speeds over 45 MPH. So on a 110F day the air inlet temp would start to climb above the calibration point, but below that the temp sensor should keep it pretty close. Given that, you could calibrate your carb at 110F and have a stable AFR.

As some of you have seen, I came into yet another large trove of Ford publications yesterday. (See Gary's Haul of Books) And that got me to thinking about how to incorporate them into the website - when the time comes. As said in the Haul thread: Basically I'm saying that I think the Library would have links to all Ford publications we have on the site. That will take some revision of the spreadsheet that has all of those links, but it can be done w/o a lot of effort. And here's what I mean about taking "Manuals & Literature", or whatever we call it, out from the Documentation menu and placing it at the top. That way people wouldn't have to drill down to find things. Thoughts, please? Better ideas?

Don't think so......saw the movie in Muskogee. Yeah, told Sharon just the other day that we need to get back there. Had the best pizza ever there!!! Glad you like the place. What did you get? Skimmed your book acquisition yesterday but was rushing and unable to respond. Will look at it this afternoon sometime. Hey, I need your address? Address sent. As for what I had, I don't see it on their menu! It was a mushroom pappardelle. And Janey had the chicken parmesan. I say "had", but we'll "have" it again in about 4 hours. Brought half of it home.

Man, you are on a roll!

You can figure out what you have and how to change on the page at Documentation/Exterior/BEDS, TAILGATES, & COMPONENTS. Go to the Tailgates tab and then the Changing Tailgates tab.

Interesting! Hadn't heard of that. Will look forward to seeing it. Where did you see it? Wondering if we were close to each other yesterday? And did you see that we ate at Russo again yesterday? Your fault! Speaking of yesterday, I'd sure be interested in your thoughts on the "library" idea I posted about in the book haul thread.

No, not my phone. I have a Sony camera that Janey willed me when she got her new one. This camera is about the size of my phone, although a little thicker but a little smaller width and height-wise. And its macro function works pretty well. So I just lashed it to the master cylinder, triggered the 10-second timer, and shut the hood. That gave me the warm, fuzzy feeling that I wasn't going to have any hot, smoky feelings when I shut the hood with the power on. As for moving things, yes, sorta. Some things are pushed back out of the way. But other things, like the fog and backup lamp relays, have been removed. So there will be quite a few connectors in that space to the right of the bracket when the dust settles. But, for the most part they will be original Ford connections as I'll interface the '96 EFI harness to the '85 harness through those connectors as much as is possible. For instance, I'll use C321, C323, C325, and C727, all of which are right there. In fact, there may only be two new connectors - one for the fog and backup lights and one for the wires from the existing fuel pump relay. All three of those functions will have relays in the EFI PDB. Basically I'm trying to make the interface as easy and as clean as is possible. That way those that chose to follow me will find it easier - and that includes me on Dad's truck.

And I thought I had long posts! I assume that part of why you post all of that is to get down on "paper" what you are thinking. That is a big reason I post lots of stuff. Another is so I can go back to it later. And a third is if people have suggestions or questions, so here I go: Headlight Ground : 18Ga Black. Is this a ground to the relay or a ground to the headlight? If the headlight I'd go with at least 16 if not 14. Yes, the wire is probably only going to be a foot or so long, but I don't like feeding a device with a 14 and taking the same current to ground with an 18. Connectors: I like the idea of having connectors close to the box so you can take it out to change something. I wish I'd done that on the passenger's PDB on Big Blue as I did have to change something and it was a pain to do it in the truck. Future Use: And I like the idea of already wiring things up so you can use them later. You can wire the trigger circuits any which way external to the box, and take the power wherever you want as long as there's fused power to the relay and trigger and output wires come to the connector. Headlight Relays: I don't think there's a good way to run the headlights with just one relay. I spent a lot of time trying to come up with a way, and the only way I found was to have the low beams on whenever the key was on, which I didn't want. Fuses: How about having one set of fuses be always hot, another set switched-power, and a third set for lighting that is powered by the headlight relay? That might make it easier to wire to the relays, and having the fuses for the lights powered from the headlight relay would mean you could blow the fuse to the floods or the spots or the driving lights and still have headlights. However, I run one of Fords auto-reset circuit breakers in my PDB for the headlights. That way they'll come back on should something trip it.

At some point you will be happy that you pulled all those parts. I certainly am happy that I have an attic full of parts. It is rare that I need a part or some wiring that I can't find it in my attic. Go for it!

Gary, I spotted that post about 30 minutes after you did. I was just getting ready to tag you in it when I saw that you had already replied. Nice catch! Dane - I agree, a treasure trove! He was apologetic that it wasn't Bullnose stuff as he has used the website a lot. But in reality books published in those years capture the Bullnose technology perfectly. Cory - Thanks for thinking of me. But I got lucky. I watch the monitor pretty closely for email notifications that someone has posted since I like to admit newbies as quickly as possible. But for some reason I looked at FB and saw that post. Couldn't believe it - Tulsa! Now, it wasn't totally free. I got Janey to go with me and we went out to Russo's coal-fired Italian restaurant. That's all John/Machspeed's fault as he told me about the place and now we've been three times. Also, Kyle is in need of some parts, and especially a tach as his friend fried his. I think I have a spare w/o a pointer, so will offer it to him. However, I need to design some way to test tachs as I want to make sure whatever I give him works. In addition, I'm afraid we may need to rethink our menu system with regard to publications. Again. I'm thinking that the Manuals & Literature section might be better labeled Library, although that is a minor thing. However, more major is the idea that it would contain links to each document on the site. For instance, we currently have buried in the Documentation/Engine section the factory shop manual sections for each engine. But why not have a way to that via the Library? Similarly we have the FSM sections for the transmissions, differentials, Bronco rear window, door latches & locks, and many, many others. And we have the EVTM's. And, and, and. But none of those are shown in the Library. So I'm wondering if we should give people two ways to each document - via the proper section, like Engines or Electrical, and via the Library. Otherwise things like the new books on Basic Gasoline Engines, Gasoline Engine Operations, The Effect Of Engine Design On Emissions & Performance, and many more are going to go into some general section on Engines. And, maybe we need to move whatever we call it, like Manuals & Literature or Library, out from the Documentation menu and put it where it'll show at the top so it is easier to find. Then people won't have to drill down so deep to find things. Thoughts, y'all?

Yes, a lot of computer connections use gold-plated pins. As for your harness, I like that plan but have too many other changes going right now to do that. But I really like the idea of the IAT sensor being in the MAF sensor. Interesting that you found a sensor that fits both a plastic and an aluminum housing. I had assumed that the plastic housing took the larger stem on the sensor and that the aluminum took the smaller stem. Guess I was wrong. But I'm not sure I understand what you mean by having "a roughly 1/4" off location on any of the 90mm MAF housings with the air filter lid". Are you saying that your 90mm housings, either aluminum or plastic, don't fit on the air box lid? If so that may be due to not having the screen. I can take a shot tomorrow of one of the housings on the air box lid w/o the screen if you need it.

As an aside, and to put links in this thread I can get back to, my desire to insulate the air intake system came from the article called Project MPG. In that multi-part article they worked an '88 F350 crew-cab dually over and got its highway MPG from 8.9 to 10.5 MPG, and increased HP and torque as well. Yes, Big Blue already got a bit better MPG than that with the carb, but he's a lighter truck with overdrive. And Darth, which is a similar vehicle but with an E4OD instead of what I'd bet is a C6 on the Project MPG mule, gets even better than that. But one thing that really interested me was the results they got from insulating the air intake system. And I'm wondering if similar results can be had on Big Blue. I realize that their EFI system was EEC-IV with SD and bank-fire and that Big Blue will have EEC-V with MAF and sequential injection. But colder air will pack more punch, so will it help the MPG on a MAF system? I'm not sure we will know as I'm not planning to run a before/after test. But we will be able to see what MPG I get from going from a carb with hot under-hood air to EFI with "cold" inlet air.

With the literature run to south Tulsa I didn't get much done today. But I did get the Cole Hersee battery isolator moved and the PDB's bracket put in what I think will be it's new home. But, I do need to tell how I came to the "right" location for the isolator. I was playing with where to mount it and I realized that if I mounted it up higher than I'd planned the #2 wire I already had would probably reach the megafuse nicely. However, as I was playing with it I noticed a burn mark on one of the nuts for the studs and that reminded me of the smoke and melt-down I had on the passenger's side when I closed the hood and the hinge hit the starter relay. So I tried to figure out where the hinge would be when the hood was closed - and finally decided there was an easier way. So I put the isolator where I thought I wanted it, set the camera on self-timer at 10 seconds, and strapped it to the brake booster. And here's the pic I got with the hood closed: So I nailed the isolator down there and made a new jumper to the megafuse and installed it. Here's how that turned out, and after I relocate the wire that's looping out from the isolator and touching the PDB's bracket we'll be good to go.

You are really making good progress. The sockets look great, and the solder crimps are a great deal when you are out on the driveway like that. Mine are due in on Monday and I'm anxious to try them. As for the black wire, I've been known to do that trick with the sandpaper. But once I get them clean I hit them with a bit of rosin. Makes the joint flow much easier, even with rosin-core solder. And I like the brackets. Much nicer than what I had on my '72.

If tomorrow and the days after you still happy then you made the right choice. I think Mazdas are well-engineered vehicles, but haven't been in that one so don't know more than that.

When I get some of this stuff scanned it is going to really help people understand how things work. It is really good reference material. Instructional.

The catalog shows that as 1980 on. But I would have thought they changed in 82 when things went rounded/aero.

I have a high-temp PTE paste that I use: Loctite 56747 PST 50ml High Temperature Thread Sealant for Stainless Steel Fittings. But I don't think I'd use tape.

Yes, it is always something. But, dry is PROGRESS!

Excellent! Those types of days make you feel GOOD!

Not sure what "BRMC 63" means, but a larger bore means more volume but less pressure. So I think you'll have to press down harder to get the same stopping results.

This morning I spotted a post on FB that asked if anyone in the Tulsa area would be interested in a number of Ford publications - for free. They'd been found in a Chevy dealership and the boss man said "Get rid of them!" So I raised my hand and am now in possession of a something like 3 dozen Ford training booklets, a whole bunch of TSB's that I surely already have, and several other Ford pubs. And I got to meet Kyle Johnston, who will probably join here soon. (And he already has a sticker for his '85 w/a 460.) But I thought y'all might be interested in what some of the booklets are, so here's a sampling. I'm planning over time to take them apart, scan them, and make them available on the website. And most of these books are from Ford's Service Technician Specialty Training arm of the Technical Training Division. So if you see something that really catches your interest let me know. Gasoline Engine Operations: A 193-page book published in 1988 that covers the history of gasoline engine development, engine design, engine wear, ignition systems (inc DS-I, II, & III, TFI-I & IV, PIP, LOS, etc), air inlet systems, forced induction, and emissions systems. Basic Gasoline Engine: 78 pages and published in 1989. Similar to the one above but, not surprisingly, more basic. The Effect Of Engine Design On Emissions & Performance: 71 pages published in 89. Includes concepts of engine design (friction, volumetric efficiency, control of combustion, compression ratio, bore/stroke), cylinder head/combustion chamber, pistons, camshaft (lift, duration, overlap, roller), etc Engine Cooling Systems & Components: A 47-page booklet published in 1988 that covers radiators (copper/brass, aluminum, cross-flow, down-flow), fluids, oil coolers, thermostats, etc. Engine Superchargers: A 40-page booklet published in '88 that covers the reasons for supercharging, the types of them, etc Electronic Fuel Injection: An 89-page booklet published in '88 that covers not only FI systems but also carburetion. But it only goes up through EEV-IV. Basic Turbochargers: 34 pages from 1988 Distributorless Ignition Sytems: 99 pages published in '89 Automotive Measuring Devices & Systems: 81 pages from 1988 Air Inlet Systems: 52 pages from 1989. Shows the evolution of systems, the reason for heated air, the ramifications, etc. Automotive Electrical Systems Review: 36 pages from 1991 that what electricity is, Ohm's Law, resistance, both in series and parallel systems, circuit protection devices like fuses, fuse links, and breakers, and measuring devices. Plus, it defines a solenoid and a relay. Noise, Vibration, & Harshness: 52 pages from '89 Electrical Systems: 142 pages from 1988. Basically a workbook that introduces you to electricity, explains how to measure it, how to repair connectors, how voltage regulators work, how to read the EVTM, etc. Light Truck Rear Anti-Lock Braking Systems: 62 pages from 1991. Covers brake balance, brake proportioning, and the RABS system, inc basic operation, servicing, and diagnosing. Fastening Devices & Torquing Techniques: 40 pages & published in 1990. 6.9L Diesel Engine: 36 pages & published in '82. Includes an overview of the engine and components, startup procedure, special tools, and specifications - including power (170 & 310), weight (780 w/o flywheel or starter), air induction flow at 3300 RPM (340 CFM), coolant flow @ 3300 (80 GPM), & exhaust flow @ 3300 (1020 CFM). 2.0L, 2.3L, 6.9L Diesel Engine Features: 46 pages published in 1986. Shows the changes to those engines for the 1987 model year.

Personally I'd go with the electric choke as it is probable that your hot air tube is rusted off, which is why someone converted to manual choke. The electric choke isn't quite as good at determining the temp of the engine so doesn't get the choke "right" in as many cases as the climatic choke, but it works pretty well. An example of that is in restarting the truck in cold weather when the engine is still warm. The carburetor will cool faster than the exhaust manifold due to the amount of metal in each. So when you restart the electric choke will dial in more choke than the climatic one will. But it still will work. So I'd go with ND1506.

Let me explain what we have and then maybe you can explain what you have in mind with a wiki. Originally: On each page of a section, like Electrical or Underhood, I manually created a menu at the top which showed all of the other pages in the section. That was because on many of the pages it was likely you'd want to go to another one of those pages. Better Tools: As the host, Weebly, evolved they brought in new tools, one of which was tabs. That allowed me to consolidate several pages in a section to one page and the tabs allow the user to go from, say, Illustrations to Part Numbers. So the need for the manually-generated menu waned, but I didn't remove it wholesale so it became out of date as I added new pages or consolidated one page into another. So I now do not see the need for the manually-generated menu and should spend some time to remove them. However, I'm interested in what you are thinking about a wiki.

Looking good! When are you going to fire it up?