Gary Lewis

That air box lid looks good, Bill. The curve looks like it would make the flow smoother. And the MAF sensor is angled up, unlike the lid I have. That would seem to help the flow as well.

I've heard good things about the Optima batteries. And when you get the engine home show us some pics!

There's a lot of interest in bumpers like that. Hope you'll post how you did it.

Looking good! That's really cool looking.

Thanks, Bill. I figured if anyone had seen it you would have.

I know they are expensive, but these Knipex snap ring pliers have done the job on things like that for me. I, too, broke several cheaper pliers until I got those.

Ahhh! Now I understand. As for the primary reason for leaving it, I'd say it is neck and neck between that's where the owner's manual says it is and ease of doing it. I just have to make the one change on the passenger's side and the change on the driver's side and I'm done. Lots easier than fishing wires out of the run across the radiator and then running them through the firewall. At least it seems so to me. Anyway, here's the progress report. I got the speed control wired up, including the brake pressure switch and the VSS wires connected to C727. Then I popped some convolute on temporarily, mainly to help organize things. And here's what it looks like. It may still look like a mess to the rest of you, but it looks like progress to me.

Glad you found that. Good luck!

Thanks! I'd thought about moving the inertia switch as you are suggesting, but it doesn't appear to be sealed and that's probably why Ford put it in the cab - even as late as '97. So I'm happy making the connections over at C144 to the PK/BK and Y wires and using the existing runs.

Yeah I was going to ask about that (steering) actually. I think I'm going to "live with it" for a week or two so I have a working truck if the camper deal works out (I also have a RAM that's our "hauler" but it's only a 6.5' bed with a rollback tonneau so it won't come close to carrying the camper we want, even one time). I'll play with "safe" things (things I can easily revert if they go south) like trying to fix the fast idle, changing my oil, etc. Once I either have the camper or it falls through, I'm just going to "go ham" on the whole steering system. I definitely agree with refurb'ing the steering box. I just figure I may as well replace everything else while I'm in there. I already bought the tie rod ends and couplers. Might as well get new bushings everywhere there are bushings... On that note, I've been reading some of the other threads and it seems Bluetop is a favorite so far? Yes, Bluetop seems to be a fav. And, I forgot to mention the bushings. I forget if yours is 4wd or not, but the F250's with 2wd should have radius arms and bushings at the back, and those go bad and certainly hurt the steering.

I've not seen a 3rd pump on a 460. Perhaps Bill has? I'll tag him.

Ok, here's Plan C. But let me 'splain, and to do so I've included the "before" circuit first. I need to get to the circuit going to the inertia switch and I don't want to run another wire across the radiator support nor the firewall. But after thinking about it, since there's no longer a need for the resistance wire in the pump circuit there's no longer a need for the feed from Fuse Link T that's hot in Start, and that PK/BK wire does run across the radiator support. So I'll use it to come back from the inertia switch and use the yellow wire, which also feeds the inertia switch to connect to the new fuel pressure relay. What am I missing?

Bummer! Yes, C144 is on the passenger's fender liner. So I'm working on Plan C. Or is it E, or Z?

I've not checked the pressure there, but bear in mind that there are three different orifice sizes, so it isn't likely that one PSI rating would cover all three.

You are now on the map. And I'll tell Prashant about the several of you over there.

I can't definitively answer the question as I've not installed a Painless DS-II kit. And I didn't find a link to one in a quick search. But my understanding is that it is pretty much plug and play. The connectors on it plug into connectors on your truck that are already there. However, part of the engine harness also includes the oil pressure and water temp wiring, and those are in way different positions depending on which engine you have. So the only way Painless could make it universal is to give you enough wire for those to get you to the farthest point where that sensor could be. And if your engine has that sensor closer you'll have to double the wiring up and zip tie it, or shorten the wiring. As for the coil, you do NOT want to go with a hotter coil. The DS-II module was not designed for anything but the stock coil, and if you go with a hotter coil you could burn the module up. Just put a replacement coil in for a DS-II system and it'll work fine.

Nice truck. But it is going to be expensive.

That IS good progress! And if you get that camper you have good reason to hurry. (Hope you'll tell us more about the camper.) And I love The Grin. But you had to bury the part about soldering, didn't you? I found it, and had a good laugh. Seriously though, I'm glad you found it and got it fixed, at least temporarily. On the wandering, replacing the tie rod ends may help. But you might want to have your wife turn the wheel back and forth just enough to take the slack out while you look to see where the slop is. In many cases there's as much in the steering box as in the tie rod ends. And if the box is worn it needs to be replaced as the adjustment on it shouldn't be touched - you'll go from loose and chasing it to tight and correcting it in 1/8 of a turn. As for replacing the box, I'm not high on what you get at the parts store. A rebuilt box still has a worn front bearing surface as only Red Head and Bluetop replace that. All others just measure it and say "good enough".

Diederick - Glad you joined! Netherlands? Cool! I've been there several times, both on business as well as holiday. Loved it. So, what part? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and could add you with a city or postal code. As for the size of the vehicle, we lived in the UK for a while and not far from an American air base where several of these trucks had been brought over. It was always alarming to meet one of them on a B road as it didn't look like both of us would fit. And I remember pulling into a pub's car park and seeing one of them parked all by itself taking up almost two places. By the way, we have other members in the Netherlands, as you can see on the map. And another member, Prashant, is moving there later this year. I'm sending stickers with him to pass out to all of you, so maybe you can get together?

Welcome, Mike. Glad you joined. But tell us more about yourself, and your truck. For instance, where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you with a city/state or zip. And what is the truck? If you put details in your signature it sure makes it easier for us to answer questions.

I'm not convinced it is on the LH apron. I tend to remember it on the RH apron. I went out last evening to look on the LH side and didn't find it. Today I'll look on the RH side as well. But I'm pretty sure it is on the RH side given the wiring for the PDB on that side, shown below, as F1 supplies power to the inertia switch. If it is on the RH side that will change my plans a bit. Not quite sure what I'll do...

Do you have flare wrenches? Sometimes they are what's needed to get sending units off. But some sending units don't have a skinny spot where you can get the flare wrench on. On the front wheels running at different speeds, that happens when the front brakes drag, and they do with the type of calipers these trucks have, which don't slide side/side very easily. On the Meter Match, are you remembering to save the setting each time? Not that you'd miss that step, but I sure did. Several times.

Doing some planning on how to run wiring and I think I just had another epiphany. Looking at the '85 fuel pump wiring I realized that the inertia switch wiring runs through C144, which is said to be on the "LH fender apron". I'm not quite sure where the connector is yet, but C143 is said to the on the "LH fender apron, near ignition module", so I'm pretty sure it is where I can connect to it to gain access to the inertia switch. Given that, I think it'll be easy to use Ford connectors to interface the EFI harness to the '85 wiring. And here's what the fuel pump wiring will look like:

Another thing to note in the table above is how close to the underhood temp the inlet air temp is when using the K&N unshielded intake. With the exception of 60 MPH it is always a few degrees higher than the underhood temp. Yep, that's exactly what I want. NOT! As for what I got done today, I installed the EFI PDB's bracket. Took a bit of checking for best placement but I finally found one I liked. Sounds easy, but there was the question of how level it would be since both the fender liner and the bracket are curved/tilted. Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good. And here's a shot of the bracket itself and then the PDB sitting on it. Obviously a lot of wiring needs to happen now, but at least I know where to measure from and to, so I can start making connections.

Ok, I think I understand what the issue is with the air box. So, what are you going to do? You think an o-ring might help? Falling Waters. Been there. Met a nice young man. The MPC shows the E4OD in the applications list in '89, and that is what my searches found as well. So if the Four Wheeler dually had a C6 they did very well to have gotten it to 10.5 MPG. But if it has the E4OD then they must have 4.10 gears. And you are right about the exhausts. Ours are free-flowing, and especially the system on Big Blue. I hope that helps on the MPG.