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Gary Lewis

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Everything posted by Gary Lewis

  1. I've gotten it down to 5 tabs: Body/Exterior/Interior; Engine & Driveline; Electrical; Fuel Systems; HVAC. Does that make sense to you? Am I forgetting anything? And I added a placeholder in Engine & Driveline on the exhaust. Is that the right place? Also, I can accommodate mid-year changes.
  2. Granada maybe? https://www.zenauto.biz/1977_Ford_Granada_Sacramento_CA_6914589.veh It's not the same pad, but it was color matched to the interior. Maybe so. It is interesting that trucks got black or black or black, but cars got color-matched horn pads. I haven't checked, but most companies used the same colors on all of their vehicles in the same year. So why not use them in the trucks? Would they have looked too froufrou?
  3. I added your name, Joey. And if I find better pic's I'll swap them out. But, good job!
  4. Typically the "TZ" of E0TZ means it is for a truck. Not a car or a van or..... But, the 1973-79 car catalog lists D1TZ as a prefix. The Broncos took the same unit as the F-Series trucks - black. And I don't see a blue one with Rosewood for a van. Further, it can't be for a little Ranger or Bronco II as they weren't around in 1980 - the "E0" part of the prefix. So I'm betting that was for a car.
  5. I'm not an expert, by any stretch. But if you are tearing into it the factory rebuild info and illustrations are here: Driveline/Transfer Cases and the NP208 tab. The leak might have been the output seal. A leak there would run down the extension and then could run down the rear of the case since it sits at an angle. As for the noise, there are nylon "fingers" that fit in the end of the shift yoke's arms. They wear and break off, so you might hear one of them rattling around.
  6. Yipes! I've paid less than that for a whole truck. It didn't run, but neither does that.
  7. Yes, welcome! Nice truck! What info are you looking for? As for languages, your English is far better than my German. And, it looks to be very good.
  8. Ha Ha!! One never gets "board" on this forum!!! Ray - You had a lot of weight on that board. (Or is it "bored") The oil probably made it a lot more flexible instead of brittle. David - Good one.
  9. Ok, I put your information in a tab on the original radiator support page here: Cooling Systems/Radiator Supports. Please see what you think and let me know as we can easily change things. You'll notice that I cropped many of your pics to include the subject and not a lot more. If you'd rather have the full pic I can put them back easily. Or crop them more/less/differently. Also, I put red circles around the top brackets in the pic of the early support. But I can remove them as well. And, I put the explanation text along side the pics in most cases to make it easier to follow and have less distance to scroll. However, that can change as well. It is yours, so tell me how you'd like it to look. And, I'd add your first name - if I knew it.
  10. OK, gotcha Gary. I was only thinking of filling a hole if by chance you had the cut the frame and reattached it where there was a hole, that's all. Understand. You could just cover the hole with a larger fishplate. But, you'd want to treat the original weld and the frame as you might get water in there. And/or leave a weep hole in the bottom so water can get out.
  11. Keep us posted. (Get it? Post = wood. ) Anyway, that looks like an interesting approach. No finish on the wood? If not, the oil, brake fluid, et al will soak in and give it patina. But it won't hurt it.
  12. Thanks, Steve! Apparently Huck's had already been replaced.
  13. I paid $800 for them - and got a whole parts truck to boot. Seriously, they were on Huck, the 1990 F250 half-truck I bought for the E4OD and EFI 460.
  14. Are the Swiss cheese frames lighter/thinner than the later ones, or is the only difference that they're full of holes? On the topic of frame shortening (Swiss cheese frame), what would stop a guy from filling the holes if they were in the way? You could have a steel disk cut, and then weld it into the hole to fill it. Is that crazy talk? I really know nothing about the Swiss cheese frames. I think they are the same thickness as the other frames. However, there's no real advantage to filling the holes. The way I-beams or C-channel works is that the web, the part in the middle, is there mainly to hold the upper and lower lips apart. As long as the web is strong enough to do its job then holes don't matter. And that's the case for those frames. There's a guy on FTE that has a pulling truck with a swiss cheese frame. Has used it in competition for years with no problems. But, if you need the holes filled where you are cutting you could do that. Or, fishplate over them.
  15. From what I've read the j-hook arms are a direct replacement for ours. I have a set that I plan on installing, but haven't done it yet. Perhaps soon?
  16. I think you are right that it isn't for a pickup or Bronco, so must be for a heavy truck. Where the A/C vents would have been it looks like there's mesh on the front, but not on the back. Strange.
  17. Are these for sticking in the back window of your non-Bullnose vehicles? (You know, to show that you're a Bullnoser?). Not sure what they are for, but the back window of my 2015 would be a good place.
  18. I think there were a lot of them sold around here in the 80's, and that was probably because they were cheap? Or cheaper than a LWB Styleside truck? I dunno. Its actually kind of interesting how the markets vary regionally. I was discussing this with another guy on FTE a while back, but out west where he lives in Oil & Gas country, the trucks were all XLT's and Lariats, etc. Out here on the east coast...everything was bare bones with no options, like my own F150. Still, of all the backyard Flaresides I have found, they're rarely ever usable. Most are rusted into oblivion. The fiberglass fenders are always in great condition, and sometimes the Flareside rear bumpers, etc but otherwise there are no usable parts. There is another Bullnose (non Flareside) for sale semi-locally (couple hours away) that I want to go see this week. Problem is that it is on an island, and the ferry schedule is really inconvenient for me to get over there to look at it. It is an '81 F150 Custom, which looks to be in surprisingly rust free condition (except for the bed sides). Another ad popped up online on Friday, and that seller has 4 Bullnose trucks for parts. He hasn't replied to me, but I'll be going to see them if I get a chance. I betcha they'll all be plane Janes with no AC, no tach, etc...lol. We have a new member, Michelle, who is shopping for a truck. So, keep those postings coming! And, good luck getting to see the "new" Bullnose.
  19. I wish I knew why that happens, but will turn it in to the programmers. And, let me know what happens when you try it if/when the menu messes up. Thanks.
  20. I'm not sure exactly why I need some of these, but I think I do. What about you? He has many different Ford trucks, including 1980 - 81 and 1982 - 86. Go here if you are interested: https://fordera.com/collections/frontpage?page=2 And he says 'You can save 10% by using code “FE10OFF”'.
  21. Good job! Let me figure out where to put it and get it drafted/mocked up. Then I'll let you review it to see what changes you want me to make. Thanks!
  22. Yes, the "351M/400" tags have confused people. But, as I have explained here (Engines/351M & 400"), Ford didn't put a letter suffix on an engine unless they had another of the same displacement. For instance, the 302 was never a 302W, although it is clearly a Windsor, since there was never another 302. Likewise, the 400 was never a 400M as there was never another 400. But at one time they had three 351's - the Windsor, Cleveland, and the M. Ford never told us what the "M" meant, as they did with the Cleveland and the Windsor. But, since those are the foundries where the engines were initially cast, it seems reasonable to think the M stands for the Michigan foundry.
  23. A gentleman on a Facebook page was selling a Type 2 wheel cover that he said was for an '85. So I added a page on Driveline/Wheel Covers to show that it is a D6TZ 1130-A and was used through the whole of the Bullnose era. But, it started in '76 and went through '89, so who knows how long it was used?
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