Gary Lewis

I like the earlier trucks. A buddy at church has a '78 and we've compared parts. The '78 is made of much heavier metal. But, while I've not had one, I don't think a 4.9L/C6 would be my favorite combo. The C6 has no lockup on the torque converter and no overdrive. The 4.9L likes to turn at low RPM. But at low R's the torque converter slips even more. So depending on what rear gears it has the MPG might not be very good. Depends on what you want to do with the truck. That's not the best combo for towing. But, it looks like a very nice truck.

Must be nice to have NPD in your back yard. Anyway, have you pulled the existing mounts? I was really surprised how rusty Dad's were. In fact I had to weld up the core support mounts because they were pretty badly rusted.

Right below your avatar is a post count.As for the MSRP's, I knew there was something else I was going to do! I even sat there today thinking "What was it I was supposed to do?" I'll see if I can get it done tomorrow.

From 1977 to 1982 the M-block truck right hand manifold is D7TZ 9430-A, and left hand is D5AZ 9431-A.

Yeah, options #1 and 2 are the best. But lowering the crossmember would be similar to #2. However, it wouldn't be all that easy since the left side sits on the lower lip of the frame. So it would have to go under the frame, which means the weight is supported by the bolt instead of the whole end of the crossmember. And then you'd have to put spacers/washers between the gusset and the crossmember. Plus, I'd have to re-drill the holes on the passenger's side. Also, if the 208 or 1345 is smaller then I may raise the cab again to pull the 1356. And I could temporarily install the 208 and lower the cab to find out if it fits for sure.

I don't think shorty headers will bother the EFI, but I'm not sure of that.And I understand about not having others work on things. Man, the stuff that "professionals" did to Big Blue before I got him should be illegal. But, I don't know about just honing the block. In my experience the bores have been worn out of round and honing won't resolve that. So while I'm in there I always have the machine work done and install new pistons. But you may get lucky.

He claims 351 windsor. Was that an option in 86? Broncos are cool. Take top off and the kids have a lot of fun driving around town. Yes, cool! And yes, the 351W was an option in '86. But it was the HO version with a 4bbl carb and DS-II ignition. In my opinion that's the engine to go for.

Yes, a carb certainly can do that. I suspect that you do have carb issues.

If you protect the carb and distributor then a spray with the hose after the degreaser should be fine. But not a high-pressure wash from a pressure washer or a car wash.

Nice, but $8K? Seems high to me. Yes, it is clean. But, it is kind of a bland-looking truck.

I put it on my research list.

I hope you get it! Looks like a worthy truck for a frame-up restification.

I think it is acting like a bad connection. In other words, it works until the current gets to a certain point, at which the connection drops the voltage and sends the system bonkers. Grasping at straws, have you checked that the alternator's case is grounded well? Perhaps put a ground wire on it? How about the cab ground? That goes from the engine, usually the back of the intake manifold, to the firewall?

Google is starting to find the web site and the forum more and more. Glad people can find the info they need as that's why the site is here.

The U in E5UZ usually means van. For a pickup it would usually be T. E5UZ 9600-F 85 E250/350 - - 0/8500 lbs. "Before 5/85" 351-4/B 87 E250/350 - - 0/8500# GVW 351-4/B

Congrat's!!!! It's a good feeling when you fix a nagging problem like that. Well done.

An '86 should have the 2G alternator, which was phased in that year. But you can ID your alternator using the pics here: Electrical/3G Alternator Conversion. And it is important to determine what you have because if you have the 1G you haven't mentioned the regulator, which is external to the 1G. But the 2G has an internal regulator. There's a TSB here about the 2G, but I'm not sure it is much help. However, the 2G's have a problem with the connectors becoming loose and causing problems - even fires. I'm not saying that you need to change to a 3G, but if it was me I'd seriously consider it. I think you either have connector or alternator problems, and I think it is probably the connectors. They lose their tension, which causes heat, which reduces tension, which causes heat, .... But, you said you replaced and soldered the plugs to the alternator. Maybe you've already addressed this issue?

Houston - We have a problem. The cab hits the transfer case. In the pic below you can see that it hits at the red oval, and almost does at the orange oval. And this is with the body mounts just snugged down hand-tight. The problem appears to be due to the extra length of the E4OD, which puts the transfer case back behind the bump-up in the floor that was apparently put there to clear the driveline. Options that I've thought of are: Smaller Transfer Case: This is the BW1356, so perhaps it is bigger than the original NP208 or the later BW1345? I have the 208 in the attic and the 1345 on Big Blue, so tomorrow I'll be measuring to see if there are any differences. Shorter Tranny Mount: Perhaps I could use a shorter mount between the tranny and the crossmember? Modify The Floor: I don't like this idea, but perhaps the floor can be raised further back. For instance, cut the floor and graft in part of another floor that moves the raised spot rearward. Shims: As a last resort perhaps shims could be used under everything to get maybe 1/4" of clearance. But, they would have to be under everything as the cab's creases line up with those of the bed pretty well right now, so the bed, cab, and the front of the fenders would have to be raised.But, what ideas do you have? Which of my ideas are good and which are bad.

Grumpin - That says it is normally closed. But you want a normally-open switch that closes when the oil pressure comes up. Bill had a recommendation for one. Let's look..... Edit: The NAPA one is normally closed. The Rock Auto one is probably both normally closed and normally open depending on which two terminals you pick. So it should work.

Ron - You are now on the map.

Ron - Welcome! So glad you joined us. We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I'd be happy to add you if you'd like. And you'll probably want to start a thread in the main section to show us what you have, tell us what you are doing, as well as track progress. And we will encourage you.

Jonathan - If you can't get to the edit post button try zooming in or out and see if that helps.As for the other problem, I'm lost as to what is going on. But I'll see what I can figure out. On the document, I've cropped it, run some optimization on it, and turned it into an OCR'd PDF. Will put it on a web page or two later, but let's see how this looks:

Jonathan - Is that page something we need to include on the web site? If so, what is the best quality copy you have? And, where should we put it? I think in Electrical/Tachometers, but it could also be in Engines/IDI. Or, put it in electrical and provide a link to it from Engines?

Nice! But, there were two different carpet sizes in that 1980 - 97 range. The Bullnose trucks used a low transmission cover and take one carpet, and in '88 a taller one was introduced to cover the ZF5 if not the E4OD. I used Dad's original carpet over the taller cover when I installed the ZF5, but it wasn't "right". It didn't lay correctly and was stretched. And when I called a big-name carpet company they needed to know what year for the truck, and the break was between 87 and 88.