Gary Lewis

Wind up pull cord? :nabble_smiley_whistling:https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Briggs+and+Stratton+Model+N&view=detail&mid=7B67B25E1CCF7E5B16137B67B25E1CCF7E5B1613&FORM=VIREThat's the guy!

Here is the 1981 brochure. Look under Ranger XLT in the interior section. They are listed as "Carpeted lower door trim panel". According to this brochure, -Custom and Ranger w/o optional (convenience group) map box received nothing -Custom and Ranger w/ optional (convenience group) map box received plain map box -Ranger XLT w/o map box received this carpeted panel -Ranger XLT w/map box received map box with a smaller carpet panel on the map box -Ranger Lariats all came with the map box and a smaller carpet panel on the map box 1981 Brochure Good explanation. Now I understand which ones got the carpet. But you don't need to go elsewhere for the brochure: Literature/1981 Literature/1981 Pickup Brochure. But I still can't find it in the catalog.

That's great news - both on the tranny as well as the daughter crawling.

Well done!

Was the post deleted?

That’s a “buck” tag and supposedly tells something about the body. But no one I know has been able to decode it. Glad you got the page working. What did you do to fix it?

David - Yes, I like it when a plan comes together! Bill - I just sent you money via Paypal. Should cover the small box, but if not please let me know. Thanks! And, there is no hurry.

I forgot about the backwards radiator outlets. Good point, Jonathan. But, wouldn't that ribbed valve cover on a blue engine look better if it, too, were blue with aluminum ribs.

When I used Big Blue and the trailer the other day there was a glitch and the trailer's wires got pulled out of the connector. I drove a ways with them disconnected, but when the trailer almost pushed me through an intersection I decided that we had to fix the wiring. The plug had colors embossed on it so we wired it that way. And nothing worked - but the brakes. So today I fixed the wiring and tested it with Big Blue. And then I used the front hitch on BB to put the trailer up. I have ~4" of clearance between the trailer and the posts of the car port behind the shop, and with the truck in 4Lo and 1st gear I can line it up and put the trailer right in there. Oh yes, Jonathan posted on FB yesterday about how the break-away cable is supposed to be connected from a trailer to the vehicle. Basically, NOT connected to the receiver so that if the receiver breaks off the vehicle the brakes will set on the trailer. But the cable on my new trailer had been woven through one of the safety chains, so I also removed that. In future when towing with Big Blue the cable will go over the ball that's on the bumper. But I'm not sure where it'll go on Blue. Gotta check that out.

Put the BW1356 t-case back on today. Cleaned the gasket surfaces, coated another gasket with Ultra Black, put the gasket and the t-case on, and snugged up the bolts. Tomorrow, after the RTV sets up, I'll torque the bolts down and touch them up. And, speaking of touching things up, I also touched up the t-case where I cut the tab off. Can't really tell where it was now. Also, I installed the new spark plugs. Haven't gapped plugs in years, but the NGK's came at .030" and I set them to .040". Then a little anti-seize and in they went. Boy, this was the easiest plug change I've done since the Briggs & Stratton Model N on my go-kart! Still haven't heard from John, the paint/body man, so I don't know if he's coming tomorrow or Friday. Hope so as I'd like to have a pro put the dent in the floor.

I think you've found the problem. The .02V from the alternator to ground indicates that the circuit is very good. But the intermittent 2.21V from the positive post of the battery to the alternator's output indicates that something in the charging cable is the problem. And the fact that the you found the black/orange wire hot is exactly where the bad connection is. So, cutting the connection out and soldering in a new one is the solution. Well done! The only problem is that you aren't sure you fixed it, so will now be anxious, worried that it will come back. I'll bet it doesn't.

Yes, good start! I literally LOL'd as I saw the pics of the hubs. I just came in from unlocking the same hubs on Big Blue and have the grease on my fingers to prove it. So, what are the plans?

That has a really deep sound. What mufflers?

Oh, I see - real PC. Hmmm, something's not right. Do other pages come in?

On your phone, your tablet, or a real computer?

My table says "Dark Blue" and that it was only used in '82. So I don't know that anyone will have truly the right color. But a one-size-fits-all place like LMC, with but one "blue", ain't likely to match. There were either 4 or 5 blues used in 7 years, so the odds of someone having the right ones is slim. I'd go with the "dark blue" and hope - assuming they aren't terribly expensive. Or, redo the originals? You can paint them the correct color with SEM.

Yes, you are missing something. Something huge. What device are you using to view the site? Did you give it time to load? Depending on your download speed it might take a bit. This is a screen snag after I zoomed out to 50% to let you see some of what's on the page:

Why, yes I do believe that would be said part. Does it look like it would fit on Darth? Let me know what you want for it, please. And the shipping.

Gary, I am with you on the 300. I keep dreaming of a Fitech fuel injected 300 with a turbo. But the old school twin carb setup would be just as cool. Cant wait to see a fresh Ford blue paint job on the engine and some powder coated tins. Why not a cast valve cover?

That's cool! Don't think I need it, but I do like seeing it on here:

As a CA truck it will have come with a pretty significant emissions system. It should have EEC-III, with the computer under the driver's seat, and the brown-grommet DS-II box - or maybe even the one with a red grommet, which is rare. With that system it is a all or nothing. Either all of the system is there and works, or it gets its knickers in a twist and puts the timing in limp-home mode. On the '89 Bronco, there's a minor problem with the radiator. The core/radiator support changed in '85, so the '89 radiator won't fit in the '82 support w/o minor modification of the support. But the mod's are described on the 85+ Radiator In Earlier Support tab here: Cooling System/Radiator Support. As for the transmission, the Applications tab here (Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmission/Automatic Transmission Applications) says that it will be a C6. The E4OD came out in '89 but only on F250's and 350's, and then only with the engines bigger than a 302. And if you consider "upgrading" to the 302, be sure you keep the perches off the '89. But, in my estimation the 302 isn't much of an upgrade vs the 300. You've dropped from a 4" stroke to a 3" stroke, which also drops the torque. However, you could put a stroker kit in the 302 and, for a lot of money, almost have a 351. So why not start with a 351? It doesn't cost any more to build a 351 than a 302 and you get a 1/2" stroker kit right out of the box. But, why not build up the 300? Go with split exhausts and true duals. An aftermarket intake and two carbs. Be different!

Yes, new radiators are available. I prefer to go that way and get an all-aluminum one. That means no plastic tank top or bottom. Aluminum conducts better than brass and copper, so does a better job of cooling. And it is significantly lighter. As for the tranny, I don’t remember what one is in the truck. Maybe you can update your signature?

Yep, that should be it. Thanks, David. 👌

Ray - Thanks, but it currently isn't costing enough to warrant taking up a collection. They've hinted a couple of times that they might have to go to adverts, and at that point I'll spring for whatever it costs, within reason, to keep them off the site. So thanks, but not at the moment.

I don't know. I just hit reply. But that post then says it is "In reply to this post", and I see other people's posts that don't say that.