Gary Lewis

Added another page to match the Frame Repair Kit E6TZ-5K130-A that's supposed to be here on Monday. But, it is supposed to come with instructions, so those may get added to the page or used to replace these. We shall see.TSB's/Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Wheels/Steering Gear Frame Liner.

Almost no forum has the smarts to read the metadata in a pic and rotate it properly. But applications on a PC or, in most cases, a phone do. So I just open the pic on my PC and save it. That usually re-orients it perfectly.

I went through the '96 to '98 TSB's today and didn't find that one. But I did find it on-line elsewhere and copied the contents into a Word document. Then I created this page: TSB's/Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Wheels/Steering Gear Frame Liner. See what you think.

ID it so you know from whence it came? I don't have a clue. Sorry.

Added two TSB's today: 96-15-11 FRAME - RIVET REPLACEMENT WITH BOLTS 80-4-13S A/C RAPID ON-OFF CYCLING OF COMPRESSOR CLUTCHAnd, I added them to the TSB Index. But, this thing sure is TEDIOUS!!! There has to be a better way. Right now the process is, and I'm including it here to help me get my mind around it: Save the scanned pdf to a file on the One Drive and get the embed codeCreate a new web site page and embed that code on the page. (Note: Creating a new web page always puts it at the bottom of the list of pages and it'll have to be dragged and dropped at the right location w/in the TSB's to show up in the menu correctly. But, for this step leave it there at the bottom as it is much easier to find in order to do get the URL.)Publish the web site, go to the new page which shows at the end of the menu, and copy the URLGo to the TSB Index, find the TSB's entry and if there isn't one create it, and then create a hyperlink to the proper web page out of the TSB's # in the IndexGo back to the web site and drag the new page up to where it should be with the other TSB's

It is the way it mounts. There is a diaphragm that pumps and if it splits then gas goes past it into the oil.

They aren't rebuildable, so replace it. But first, I've had situations where a truck that hadn't been started in a long while wouldn't pull gas into the pump. So I put a little bit of air pressure into the tank's filler and that pushed gas into the pump. Somehow priming the pump worked.

And the wooden box.

Like this? Watch @ ~1:37 minutes. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=the+frenchtown+flyer+youtube&&view=detail&mid=304892A45D606625B284304892A45D606625B284&rvsmid=9428BA20873C91BC2C2F9428BA20873C91BC2C2F&FORM=VDRVRV Yep, like that. (Remind me to turn the volume on the shop's computer down next time. )

David - It is possible the fuel lines are causing a problem. But this truck should have the nylon lines rather than rubber. Still, there could be an air leak that would kill the pressure. Adam - I expect that the fuel pressure is low and then drops. But the reason it drops is that the floats in the carb drop and the needles open up as you open the throttle, so the flow should increase. But if the pump is weak then it can't keep up with the needed flow and the pressure drops. On the coil, it would depend on what coil you have in. But I doubt that you have a coil so poorly matched to the system that it can't supply a high output voltage. On the other hand, if you have the right coil then put it on and see what happens.

An HEI is just one form of a one-wire dizzy. There's also the DUI one-wire, which uses an HEI module. And, Tim Meyer makes a one-wire, although not yet one for a 300. Pertronix makes a one-wire. For the carb, I do think a 500 CFM Eddy would be better. I'd look at the new AVS2 since it has an easily-adjusted secondary opening point. And a cam with a bit more overlap and duration would help performance, but don't go wild or you'll kill the low-end torque. However, I don't have a recommendation as I don't know that engine.

I've seen a lack of fuel cause those problems, and I've seen a weak spark cause those problems. In both cases the vehicle did better in lower gears. The reason a weak spark can do it is that taller gears cause lower RPM but the same load. That creates higher cylinder pressure (BMEP) and at high pressure the spark just won't jump across the gap. But I lean to a fuel system problem. One test I'd be inclined to do is to adjust the opening point of the secondaries. That's easy on that carb and should show in the instruction manual. Try it where they open earlier and open them later and see what happens. However, I think you are just running out of fuel. Perhaps put a fuel pressure gauge on the system and put a phone under the hood to watch it and Facetime to another phone in the cab? Or, if you have an Apple Watch, put the phone under the hood and see it on the watch. I think you'll find that the pressure drops.

Thanks, Steve! What TSB is that from?

On the ignition, see the Ignition Simplification and then the One-Wire tabs here: Electrical/Ignition. But if you are doing all that work I wouldn't stick with the stock cam. And a 600 CFM Eddy is a lot of carb. That carb worked well on Big Blue's 460 and took it nicely to 5000 RPM. So that's plenty of carb, and maybe too much unless you are going to set that 300 up to rev. In fact, doing the math, that carb would be quite adequate to take a 300 to 7500 RPM.

Have fun! But perhaps someone has a pic of the later tube so you know what you are looking for?

Nevermind, found it here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/cooling-fan-s--illustrations.html I should know to look before I ask. 😉

Bummer! So, tell us a bit more. First, what carb do you have? Do you have a mechanical fuel pump or electric? Dual tanks? Second, what were the symptoms? Any missing, rough running, backfires? Or just sagging and no power? I'll suggest that the problem either a lack of enough fuel or weak spark. But let's see what others say and what your answers are.

Guys - I'll offer my help on how to pull info from scattered threads, from across the whole of the internet, together. You can take a look at the first post of Dad's Truck Build thread and see how I'm doing it. Threads or posts on your builds probably won't be as scattered or fragmented as Dad's truck's threads/posts are (I'm sure there are more than 20 different threads), but it is easy to get things fragmented. And it is hard and time consuming to find all of those things and pull them together again later. So keeping track as you do it is advisable. But, if you keep track you have to do that someplace. And that's where this technique comes in handy. It is just a Word document saved on my Microsoft One Drive, although it could be on a Google Drive or maybe even Drop Box. Get the "embed code" and paste it into your post. Then when you update the Word document it magically gets updated in the post.

Not sure how it is "mouse-proofed", but I'd recommend getting an air cleaner box with the tube that goes up to the radiator support for cool air. You should be able to find one of those at the salvage easily. The illustration below is what you should have, but there's a later one that instead of tube 9A624 attaching to the radiator support down low it actually lays on top of the radiator support. So either of those would work. Having said all that, I highly recommend you do not go with an open element air cleaner w/o the box and cool air tube. That's because you'll be sucking hot air into the intake, and that will reduce your power.

All in the name of research. Inquiring minds have to know if it really is 1986+. Don't we believe that the frames didn't change during the Bullnose years? And we know the steering boxes didn't. Seriously though, Big Blue's got a clunk that has to be a cracked frame, Huck bolt loose, or some other rivet loose. So I'm highly likely to be repairing something right there and have to take the steering box off. And if the frame is cracked then it should be reinforced. And if it isn't cracked then why not reinforce it? Dad's frame was cracked there and never was abused. Stock tires, no offroading, etc. So if it can crack then surely Big Blue's can and probably has/will.

E5TZ 12A650-YA fits: Note that it doesn't say "Bronco" like the advert says. I didn't go through checking each U150 listing, but my search didn't turn up that part fitting a Bronco.

No, I'd never seen that, but it is in the catalog. The shot below shows what's in it. And I'll tell you whether it is just '86 and later in a few weeks/months.

I'd never noticed that what I call a thermostat housing, or goose neck, is a "connector" in Ford speak. And, I can't tell you what this one fits as I can't find E0TZ 8592-D nor RH-12 in the catalog. I'm not saying that this isn't the right part for a Bullnose. In fact, with the E0TZ I'll bet it is. But it looks like this one was superseded and removed from the catalog.

That's a decent plan. Peel the onion. As you go along you'll find lots of things to do, but getting the basics done first is a good approach. On the axles, the 9" was still in use in '86, although not as frequently used as earlier.

Wind up pull cord? :nabble_smiley_whistling:https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Briggs+and+Stratton+Model+N&view=detail&mid=7B67B25E1CCF7E5B16137B67B25E1CCF7E5B1613&FORM=VIREThat's the guy!