Gary Lewis

It helps that my dad was an auto body tech for the ten years I knew him. I would rather have spent our weekends together doing something other than watching him work our weekends away, but I did learn a lot about aligning panels and taping off trim. Ray - Luckily the wiring for the EEC should be stand-alone. I cut mine out of the '82, but there may be a market for the CA-spec ones, so you might want to tease it out gently and store it. Some of the guys in CA might pay handsomely for it later. Shaun - Some of my best memories are working on a vehicle for or with my father. Like the time we made a spring compressor for the coils on the front of my '58 Chevy. Sears had just come out with the first ratcheting end wrench, and we used two pieces of all-thread with hooks on one end to grab the spring and a nut/hook combo on the other to run down and compress the spring. And, we used a pair of the new ratcheting end wrenches. Got the spring compressed and out, and then realized that to make the apparatus release the spring we had to remove the wrench and turn it over. We both realized it at the same time, looked up at each other, grinned, and started rolling around on the ground laughing like crazy.

Wow! Took the night off to watch a movie and you are almost done! You are truckin'!

I believe it was 1983-up diesel and 1984-up gas. I had no idea these things were expensive on Ebay. I grabbed a spare at a junkyard last year and I'm sure it was only $10-$15. I'm going back out to the junkyard today looking for some Ford stuff, if I see a hydraulic pedal set I'll grab it. (It's unlikely that I will, but you never know). Sorta: 83+ for diesel and 460, which is when they were introduced, and 84+ for all else.

Well...figured Id show what popped up. Decent photo of it and the garage. Now you are going to really get to use the Good Guy's Garage.

I agree. A friend on FTE called the 80-81 grille the LGG - Last Great Grille.

Just think how much better it is going to run w/o all those cracked lines.

The system you have is all or nothing. Change one thing the computer doesn't like and it'll lock the timing, killing performance and MPG.

Randy - Sorry to see that. Seems like a lot of work. Good luck! Shaun - Glad you got that adjusted. That can be tedious to get right.

Welcome! Where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a town/city.

I added the rivet/bolt TSB yesterday: 96-15-11 FRAME - RIVET REPLACEMENT WITH BOLTS so I think that's covered. As for the rear shock TSB, that doesn't apply to the Bullnose trucks. And, while I know we have stuff on here that doesn't apply to Bullnose, for the most part that's because someone is likely to put that part in a Bullnose. Like the ZF5. So I'm struggling with including that TSB. But, just for you.... Anyway, it is now on: TSB's/Brakes,Steering,Suspension,Wheels/90-13-9 FRAME CRACKING AT REAR SHOCK MOUNT, although I'll have to go add it to the spreadsheet. Boy, this TSB stuff is tedious. But, on bringing them all together on one page, I'm not ready to do that as I don't yet have my mind around how to organize the TSB's. We have at least four "frame" things at present, and I'd bet there are several more buried in all these TSB's on my shelf. I can get 5 tabs on a page, and I can nest tabs below those 5 tabs, but not knowing how big this is going to get has me leery of starting down a path and then having to change directions. So, let's hold off a bit on merging things onto one page. The rear shock mount TSB is under Brakes, Steering, et al so there is a semblance of organization. We just have to figure out what the next layer is.

Oh. Ok then, I'll stay where I am as I'm preserved pretty well here.

Wow! That looks GREAT! I thought it was a stainless counter top to start with.

If you are happy w/o OD then stick w/the T19. I paid $500 for my ZF and then put $1000 in a rebuild, which had to be done by a pro due to the special tools needed. However, on the 6.32 1st on the T19, you might want to peruse this thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/No-headaches-6-9-Diesel-td9311i20.html. Apparently not all of the T19's got the low ratio.

Actually, it isn't the "throttle kicker" but the "throttle position solenoid". You can see it in the schematic below on the left in the middle. Check that you have power on the light green/pink wire when the compressor is running.

Welcome to the forum. I was hoping you would do the introduction, as requested in the email. But perhaps you will get to that as well as the requested signature in a bit? The throttle-kicker circuitry is shown here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/carburetor-circuits1.html. I'd start with checking to see if you are getting power to it when the A/C is on.

Welcome! Glad to have another retiree on here. On the lock situation, you can get the pin-style rods and caps and use your current door latches, but down on the pin will be Unlock and up will be Lock. To change that just change out the latches to the later ones. Or, you can see if anyone on here has the replacement sliders. And, one of the catalog outfits is selling them now. Also, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map on the menu), and I'd be happy to add you to that if you'd just give me a town/city and state. No address in other words.

Have added two pages to the site so far today, although each of those pages has multiple-page documents on them. Both are in Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions: 3.03 3-Speed Toploader: But, I don't know for sure that "toploader" is the best or only designation for it. Single Rail Overdrive (SROD)

I've not done a C6/T18 swap, but I did a C6/ZF5 swap. And the driveshafts did work, so I'd bet they will on a T18. And, the diesel never came with a mechanical clutch linkage. Nor did the 460's. They came out in '83 and were the first to use hydraulic linkage, with the rest of the engines following suit in '84. So you should be good with what you have. As for the pedal assembly, it does have to be from a Bullnose. But, what are you going to use the Bronco for? If highway use I'd think a ZF5 would be a better choice due to the OD.

I paid $300 for the rebuild. But I've seen adverts for new driveshafts built to your specs delivered to your door for something like $200. Don't remember where that was..... However, that RA price is actually $221 when you return yours as a core. Don't know how much shipping will be though.

I had new splines put on Dad's driveshaft and a new slip yoke added. Can be done. But might be cheaper to have a new driveshaft made. I'm going to have to have driveshaft work done on Dad's truck as well, and will be comparing new to rebuilt, but you are ahead of me. Maybe someone else can steer us?

I doubt it would be easy to machine a fan w/the small hole, and even if it could be I doubt it would be worth it. They should easily be available in the salvage. If you look in the part numbers it looks like you want E3TZ 8600-G. And that was used on: 83/86 E-Series w/300 & 302 83/87 E-Series w/351W 83/86 F100/250 & Bronco w/a 302 and no A/C 83/87 F100/350 & Bronco w/351W and no A/C

We now have the FSM's instructions on the SROD on the site: Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/Single Rail Over Drive (OD).

I know nothing about the mechanical clutch linkages, but swapping in a hydraulic clutch is an option if all else fails. Hydraulic master, slave, and line are all available new. The hydraulic bell housing and pedal assembly would have to be scavenged from other Bullnose trucks. I've rebuilt a manual clutch linkage, and it can be done. However, many of the parts are not available so you may have to weld them up and machine them back. As for hydraulic, that is an option but I wouldn't do it w/o reinforcing the firewall. Read the info on the Clutch Linkage tab here: Driveline/Clutches And Linkage. And, there's a link on there back to FTE where I rebuilt the mechanical linkage.

Yes, its push down and forward-left. So the next question, after reading Corey's article, how the heck do I make the SROD shifter feel less sloppy. Apparently they are known for being sloppy. Also, the clutch pedal travels what seems like 4 feet. haha. Its the last two or three inches of travel upon release that the clutch engages. I either have to get used to this, or maybe adjust to my liking....I will learn more. T-case is the NP208F (Driveline/Transfer Cases) which was standard. Let me see if I have Ford's rebuild procedures on the SROD in the factory shop manual. If so I can scan them in and we'll have a new page.

That doesn't work for me Gary. I use my iPhone for taking pictures, but I almost always take the pics with the phone in the horizontal orientation and they always post fine. If I take a picture with the phone vertical, the forum will post it sideways, even if I save it on my PC correctly. I know for me, a vertical picture like this will always post sideways. The forum just doesn't like 'em. Here I cropped the picture so that it is a sideways rectangle (Landscape) and it posts fine. Same as if the phone was horizontal. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but this has been my experience with my phone. I downloaded it, opened it with a basic editor, rotated it, and saved it: