Gary Lewis

Wow! Such a beautiful job!

The VIN is on there, but it won't tell you about the emissions package. You find that with the calibration code. As it says, that label is usually on the valve cover. Get the #, like the 2-3A-R10, and I'll look it up.

You said it is a computer-controlled 2bbl, and those can easily go into limp-home mode if the computer detects something it doesn't like. The way to know is to pull the codes. The EEC-IV Testing page explains how to do that: Electrical/EEC-IV Testing. But if that doesn't make sense let me know.

First, you were missed. And, SNS. As for towing with that rig, I think it'll do it. Go to the Calculators page (Driveline/Calculators) and put 30" (my guess) in for tire size and 3.08 for the gears and you'll see that you'll be turning 2242 R's at 65 MPH in 3rd gear. That'll be up in the powerband for the 5.0L and it should be fine there, but not at the 1592 R's in 4th. In fact, I think you'd be ok on the passes. If you put in 3000 for the desired RPM you'll see that you'll be running 56 MPH at those R's in 2nd gear, and it should do that handily.

Not bad for the price, but it would have been nice to know a bit more for the money. As for the bumper, step bumpers were available in chrome, argent, and black for the Broncos as well as the Stylesides. But that one doesn't look like the one from Ford. You can see the pic on Page 5 on the Options & Accessories tab here: Literature/1982 Literature/Dealer Facts Book.

Here's a test I found for a leaking booster: And then it offers this regarding why boosters fail:

Ray - I think that's the feedback carb. Here are a couple of pics of one of them, and you can see in the right shot the thing the wires in the yellow loom go into.

I'll state this right from the outset - I can just barely spell "diesel", and am fairly good at fueling them, but I've never worked on one. Never. That having been said, we do have a "Timing The 6.9/7.3L" how-to on here if that would help: Engines/IDI.

I didn't realize some 4x4's don't have the wide mount. But, I should have done as Dad's truck has the narrow mount, and it can from and F250 4x4. So, you could convert. Might be the way to go. As for the engine mods, I'd suggest doing the dizzy and running the existing carb. Again, it might be a little rich or lean as you won't have a computer controlling it, but it should work. However, have you checked to see if you have wiring going to the carb? Maybe it isn't feedback? Do you have vacuum going to the distributor? If not it is EEC and should have originally been a feedback carb.

You found it on Dennis Carpenter? Cool!

Cory - It is a CA-spec truck, but without the calibration code I can't prove it has EEC or not. Ray - If you can find the calibration code, something like 2-51X-R0, then I can determine a lot about the system.

I'm sure it could be converted, but I wouldn't want to do it. The narrow one is for 2wd trucks while the wider one is for 4wd trucks. I think the reason for the wider one on the 4wd trucks is because the transfer case hangs off the the side. That creates a rocking motion to the engine/transmission/transfer case so the wider base is needed.

Thanks, Bill! The engine plate is black, so I think I'll PC the inspection plate in Silver Lining and the bolts in black.

Shaun - I pulled out my surplus brake and clutch pedal assemblies today, did some looking at what I had on-line, and discovered that I do have a hydraulic one. But let's see what Cory finds today as what I have is bits and pieces and, if he finds something, it'll be a unit. Having said that, what I found is that there were three clutch/brake brackets: E0TZ 2L252-A, E1TZ 2L252-A, and E4TZ 2L252-B. But they appear to interchange as the E4 is shown in the catalog from 1980 on. Next up is the lever on the right end of the clutch shaft - 7A554. The mechanical version had a hole in it for the rod to go in and the hydraulic has a pin for the master cylinder's rod to go over. But they are splined and can be swapped. Last is the assist spring - 7534. There were 7 different ones of those depending on what engine and transmission you have. I have two, a yellow and a black. You can see the illustrations and part numbers here: Driveline/Clutches And Linkage and then the Clutch Linkage tab. (Yes, I know it also has the brake pedals, but ..... )

Johnny - I saw your posts, but there's little chance of Taden getting back with you as we've not heard from her since that post in Oct of 2017. However, I'm sure Jonathan will get back with you. And, I've looked but apparently I don't have any sliders. Sorry. But, I'm pretty sure that someone is now selling them. So you should search for them online. The part numbers are shown below, and I just did a quick search for E0TZ 1022168 and got several hits, although most of those were used. And, note that some people don't know that the second character is a zero, so you might also search for an O rather than a 0.

Sounds like a plan, Ray. It is yours and I'll do my best to not tear it up trying to get it apart.

Jein. Engines/300 Six and go to the Specifications tab and scroll down to the 1982 info.

Crossmember time. I do not have a NOS "Insulator Assy. (Rear Support), as Ford calls it, either upper or lower. But, I have found some online - for from $83.35/ea to $127/ea for the upper, and I didn't bother to look for the lower. But, you may get lucky and find them less expensive, so here are the part numbers you are looking for. And, by the way, they also fit 4wd's w/a 255, 302, 351W, 351M, 400, 460, and the IDI. Having said that, here's a comparison of your crossmember to a spare of mine, and then a pic of my upper and lower insulators. Note how your uppers are bad but mine are good. And your lowers appear to be good, although it is hard to tell from the pic, and mine are bad. Looks like a marriage made in heaven - assuming yours and mine will come apart w/o tearing the other piece up. The lower screws into the upper, and they get really rusty. I have mine soaking in penetrating oil to see if they'll come apart nicely. I'll keep hitting them with the impact every little bit to see if they'll come apart nicely. If so they are yours for the shipping. And, if they don't then I could ship the whole crossmember and you could use it as it is the uppers that are really bearing the weight of the engine and tranny.

The axle seals and wheel cylinders will be the same whether limited slip or not. But, to decode where's the tag that should be attached to the front of the axle under a bolt holding the diff/pumpkin in. Usually at about the 9 or 11 o'clock position. And, the certification label should say also. But I don't know where you posted the cert label's pic.

Just in case you haven't found them, the FSM section on that transfer case is here: Driveline/Transfer Cases.

I also added the following from the factory shop manual: Section 16-01 on clutch testing and adjusting, Section 16-02 on clutch removal and replacement, Section 16-03 on adjustments to the mechanical clutch linkage, and Section 16-04 on the hydraulic clutch linkage - all here: Driveline/Clutches and Linkage.

Gary. I will remove the Cali High Altitude stuff gingerly. Not sure what I think about the hitch, but could come in handy. I really dont plan to tow. BUT....doesnt every redneck need a trailer hit to hang his huge cow testicles from? It is a Bullnose truck. Why not have bull balls on the back? ...im kidding.... Private text or email me on the trans mounts. What is Orange can of death? Yup, no AC. Not a big deal. It does get hot here, but not like it does in Skiatook. I probably wont be driving it everyday, so, not really a concern for now. Maybe later I will do a Vintage Air setup. Yes, that rocker is serious. But, I think I can repair it pretty easily. What surprises me, is the other side is just fine. Orange Can Of Death: Fram oil filter Hitch: Surely there's one that doesn't protrude like that one does? Mounts: Will have to figure out what I have and if they are right for LB82. Then will let you know. Rust: You have a leak on that side, maybe around the windshield? And, that must say that home for the truck was up north as "It never rains in southern California".

Ray - Several thoughts as I scroll through the pics: First, that yellow-grommeted ignition box may be telling us that the truck has the high-altitude package on it. That's what my notes say here: Electrical/Ignition and on the ignition module tab. As said elsewhere, that system may be of value to others stuck with having to maintain a similar truck in CA, so you might want to gently remove all of those bits and preserve them. Second, that trailer hitch looks out of place on the truck. Not that a Flareside w/a six can't tow, but ..... And the transmission mount insulators look absolutely GONE. I may have a pair of NOS ones. The "orange can of death" sure shows up ominously in several of the pics. And you don't have A/C. Last, that rust where the floor meets the rocker looks serious.

Thanks, Bill! I certainly appreciate it.